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@datzenmike I’m curious, let’s say I wanted to take an alternator off a 70’ 240z and put it on an L20b, any issues I should be aware of?  
 

Based on my shitty internet research both are 35 amp and the answer I’m getting from the vendor is “dude, it’ll totally work man”.  Yes... that is a direct quote. 
 

I’m losing patience with these weekly remans.  I wanted to put off rewiring my 74’ 620 for another year but... I’m about to buy a lot of tools and just switch the whole truck to US made wire and everyone’s favorite weather resistant connectors.

 

I’ve ordered a Remy 14105 & a BBB 14105 but when I put them under load and check them with the oscilloscope and volt meter they run like dog shit. I even borrowed a Bosch W0133-1612146 and its more crap just with a Bosch label and price tag.
 

I plan to do a couple hundred mile road trip but... I’m old.  I hate walking.  
 

To any kids in their 20’s and 30’s reading this... take care of your knees and back. 

Edited by Soundline
I really should proofread
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24 minutes ago, Soundline said:

@datzenmike I’m curious, let’s say I wanted to take an alternator off a 70’ 240z and put it on an L20b, any issues I should be aware of?  
 

Based on my shitty internet research both are 35 amp and the answer I’m getting from the vendor is “dude, it’ll totally work man”.  Yes... that is a direct quote. 
 

I’m losing patience with these weekly remans.  I wanted to put off rewiring my 74’ 620 for another year but... I’m about to buy a lot of tools and just switch the whole truck to US made wire and everyone’s favorite weather resistant connectors.

 

I’ve ordered a Remy 14105 & a BBB 14105 but when I put them under load and check them with the oscilloscope and volt meter they run like dog shit. I even borrowed a Bosch W0133-1612146 and its more crap just with a Bosch label and price tag.
 

I plan to do a couple hundred mile road trip but... I’m old.  I hate walking.  
 

To any kids in their 20’s and 30’s reading this... take care of your knees and back. 

 

the 240z should fit just fine. It's an L24 motor, same thing just two extra power pumpers. If you don't want a reman alternator you can swap to internally regulated alternators and open up a lot more options. GM, pathfinder, etc.

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My info shows the earlier ones '70-'71 and it's 40 amp. Then the rest are 50 amp and then the Canadian and optional US as 60 amp.

 

I bet you find that they are larger diameter and that's the problem with the truck vs. a car. There's a frame, rad hose and an idler arm much too close making a larger diameter alternator a difficult fit on a 620. I've done it, not easy.   

 

If that's all you want get the L20B 620 alternator they are 38 amp. and they fit for sure.  Not the regular one they are 35 amp ask for the optional cooler... i think this is Nissan talk for air con? or heavy duty cooling. 23100-B8001 (or B8002)

 

The '78 and up are internally regulated. If this is for a '74 then get the externally regulated one. 

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3 hours ago, Draker said:

 

the 240z should fit just fine. It's an L24 motor, same thing just two extra power pumpers. If you don't want a reman alternator you can swap to internally regulated alternators and open up a lot more options. GM, pathfinder, etc.


I’ll be doing this probably this winter.  I know me, I met me that one time... at band camp.  If I start touching wires... I’ll rip them all out and rewire the whole truck. 

 

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

My info shows the earlier ones '70-'71 and it's 40 amp. Then the rest are 50 amp and then the Canadian and optional US as 60 amp.

 

I bet you find that they are larger diameter and that's the problem with the truck vs. a car. There's a frame, rad hose and an idler arm much too close making a larger diameter alternator a difficult fit on a 620. I've done it, not easy.   

 

If that's all you want get the L20B 620 alternator they are 38 amp. and they fit for sure.  Not the regular one they are 35 amp ask for the optional cooler... i think this is Nissan talk for air con? or heavy duty cooling. 23100-B8001 (or B8002)

 

The '78 and up are internally regulated. If this is for a '74 then get the externally regulated one. 


This is why I asked you specifically.  The problem I have with the remans is... they make much bigger claims than they produce.  They appear to be utter fucking trash. I’d be lucky to get six months out of them. I honestly cannot believe how fucking bad they are.  

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I found a place in Portland called Auto-Battery Electric. Ken, the guru at SE 15th X Hawthorne, built me a new 110 amp unit from a small Delco housing, with the right pulley for $98. A new plug clip pigtail was ten bucks.  They mounting ears are so close to matching the 35amp POS I have been running on an L20. The only modifications I made were to add a washer to the front bolt to shim it. And I replaced the idler arm with a $3.64 turnbuckle from ACE Hardware. I added a wing nut to lock one side of the threads. Simple to tweak the belt tension. Fuck me, how come I didn't ever do this before?

 

I already removed the external voltage regulator  a while ago, when I ran a 65 amp alt. from the 720 series trucks. It was not right for my application in a '73... no bump out for the radiator... so the pulley came too close to the bottom radiator hose. It was hard to get the right belt to fit a limited  adjustment range. It was better than an 35amp, but the 110amp makes it like shit actually works. Can have the lights, wipers, heater and stereo on, all together... towing a trailer with lights... and the turn signals work!

 

Wish I could tell you part or model numbers, It says Alt. on the receipt.  But It is easy to do, can be done. I wish I would have done it 30 years ago. or 40... or 45... 

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I spent many years in the auto parts industry.  The vast majority of remans are not truly rebuilt.  What they do is identify the failed part and replace that, then box it up again.  Its a gamble.  Some will have immediate failures and others will last years.  

 

Your best bet is to follow Figbucks advice and have a local electric place rebuild it or suck it up and do the internal regulator conversion and newer alt.

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Not much to wear out on an alternator. Brushes first then perhaps a bearing. A dealer alternator is close to $400 and with a 40-60% mark up it's a $200 alternator so expecting to get a deal on a $60 POS from Auto Zone, O'Reliey's, Rock Auto is a stretch. It may have a lifetime guarantee but that free alternator doesn't pay for the tow bill or inconvenience.

 

I put newer car alternators on my Datsuns over the years. I just made sure it didn't have a re-build sticker on them. I think a 100 amp 2002 Altima alternator was $40 CDN from a wrecking yard. Had to swap a V pulley on and amazingly the original '76 pulley and belt worked and only the two wire plug was different. A little angle grinding on the block mount for more swing was all that was needed. I got the charge cable that was on the alternator in the Altima. It was thicker than my positive battery cable!!!!

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I’d honestly be willing to pay $400 usd for a solid 110amp alt.
 

I do occasional product testing for companies, and this was part of that. I ended up keeping the Bosch one since it was the best of the lot. 
 

Lock is dead on with the replacement of only failed components.  The vibration that alternators experience can cause wires to break over time. Especially if the metal the copper I’d mixed with is brittle.  I didn’t take them apart but I did look inside and I wasn’t impressed.  
 

If I could find a really good auto electric place to build me one I’d be elated. Guess that’s my next mission.

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