Jbone32 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Water was leaking before gasket change under manifold..head looked good..im starting think there shouldnt be ports there cause with a fi ton of force i was able to get an awl through what seems like aluminum to me.. Quote Link to comment
Jbone32 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 There definitely a whole behind a 1/4 inch of aluminum after hiting it a hundred times with a a sharp flat head and sledge hammer..were not talking plugged uo with crud im carcing on what seems factory aluminum but im over this whole thing at this point and will get a new head if necessary Quote Link to comment
Jbone32 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Pretty sure i just went through some factory aluminum ..or how they say in the UK alumineum. . Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 I didn't mean to drill them out. I thought just powder. What about the intake is it solid also??? DON'T drill that out Quote Link to comment
Jbone32 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 No..intake has a hole..well both sides now 😮 Quote Link to comment
Jbone32 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Also i can confirm every pic ive seen of A87 has those holes..that was my deciding factor.. no worries Quote Link to comment
Jbone32 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Intake holes were plugged.. obviously cause they had no where to go..i cleared them before i put new head gasket Quote Link to comment
Jbone32 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 So ..now im stuck starring at it wondering a couple things..where did those shavings go?..heater core..as well as where to go from here ..theres no obvious leaks anywhere ..maybe i should pull the head? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 So the intake has holes but the head did not??? Look down in front of the carburetor (on the right in the picture below) On yours there should be a pipe to let out the water from the runners. Is it connected to anything? http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k162/mklotz70/Engine/L%20Series/Intake/DCP_8981.jpg Quote Link to comment
Jbone32 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Lol thought you gave up me .. It goes to exaust pipe Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 I think that's the EGR pipe. Look on intake from the front of vehicle. Down in front of the carburetor on the head side of the intake runner. Do you have this pipe coming out??? Quote Link to comment
Jbone32 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Yes it goes to tstat housing and loops to other side of motor above alternator Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Excellent, it should. Now the water coming out of the head has somewhere to go. You can go ahead and drill out the two holes in the head and in the intake if needed. Now why would Nissan plumb a coolant cooled intake that has a head that doesn't have holes in it???? Well it's unlikely they would so like other abnormalities this can be explained by the head being replaced some time in it's life from an import engine from Japan. Like I said the only other heads I have ever seen without coolant holes is the U67 from the '75-'77 L20Bs. So back to the original problem. Water in the oil. 1 Quote Link to comment
Jbone32 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Thankyou again for the help..i don't know what i would do without it..Its freezing out here but im all in cause this at the moment is my only transportation..i just walked up and got my boy a pizza ..i think im going to pull the head off and inspect the gasket.. earlier you mentioned a way that water could get in from behind water pump..is that something visible i would be able to see..also what happens if i pull the head off and it looks ok?..would i need another gasket.. thanks again Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 If it was run and the head comes off I would replace it. Drain thoroughly. When you lift the head away try not to drip any water into the cylinders. Not that this is a no no, but to see if there is water preset already. If there is water in one or more cylinders inspect the head above it. I have a professional straight edge that I use. Lay it lengthwise in 3 places and even in an X pattern. If you can slip a 0.004" feeler gauge under it, specially between cylinders then the head should be surfaced. Might as well do the block as well though a much lesser chance there. Quote Link to comment
Jbone32 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Cool..ill pull it off then and take it to machine shop to be safe " out of time really" i checked it with a level and feeler but it seemed ok..what gets me is that water could pass tje gasket without heating up?..well atleast the port thing got worked out. Well i hope so anyway hate to have the head done only to find out those holes wont work..lol..also since i know nothing about the history of this truck and the head hole issue im checkingt to verify its even a L18 ..still researching cast numbers now Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Block vent pipe is consistent with an L18. Look at top edge of block behind the dip stick handle... Quote Link to comment
Jbone32 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Ok thanks again for all your help..probaby L18 will check above dipstick ..weeks working on this has me exhausted ..crazy for such a simple little engine..its almost like everything that could go wring did...i had a 69 fj40 did a disk break conversion and engine swap all in 1 day and this little truck has me wooped Quote Link to comment
Jbone32 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Hey..what are the odds that it is fixed already..hear me out..lol..i drained out oil with water in it..changed head gasket and timing chain. Changed filter and added oil..what if there was still enough water in block to turn oil completely white and milkhake after running for only 2 minutes?..i mean maybe its just residual water from block mixing with new oil?..just being hopeful i guess Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 (edited) I dont get why you drilled out the water passage if you needed need to. If you really need it just drill out a 1/4 in hole not a huge hole like you did. It was obvious it was aluminum and you pounding the shit out of it!!!!!!!!!!!!! I would rather have a NON water passage head in my stock pile. You live in Calif might not need the water passage if hot all the time but too late now. so run the water intake and snug up those intake bolts otherwise it can leak till you get it right. I use a box end wrench and flip it over to tighten it. Sockets get hareder even with a svival but worried of rounding out the bolt or not direct torq on it so I use a box end water can get in thru the front cover where the water passes thru or behind the water pump area if the cover is cavitated with a tiny hole. from running bad anti freeze(old) look like termites went thru it. most of the water should be out if drain and put cheap oil in there. but run it if milky again either change it out or its really still bad. I did mine like 3 times the oil change when the front cover went bad. BUY ANTI SEiZE compound and use it on everything Edited March 23, 2021 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.