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Replaced head gasket immediately water in oil


Jbone32

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Head was clean and free of warp changed all gaskets changed oil.. as soon as it started water in oil didnt even get up to twmp..i dont understand?   what did i miss..im out of energy to boot..i feel like i did something wrong with intake gasket..oil turned white running for 1 minute..guess i have to take it apart again 😌

IMG_20210322_144115204.jpg

Edited by Jbone32
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Did you recover the two dowels that fit and locate the head onto the block? and put them in the block before the head went back on?

 

1f23d47b71d015964ea621c15180305d_600x.jp

HEAD BOLTS.

 

R  A  D

7.......8

3......4

1.......2

5......6

9.....10

 

Tighten from the center of the head outward in this order to 20 ft lbs. Begin again in the center outward at 40 ft lbs. A final center outward in this order to 60 ft labs. Done. If not done in this order, drain the coolant below head level, loosen all head bolts and do over. Use a torque wrench. Make sure bolt threads are clean and wipe them with oily rag. 

 

The manifold gasket is hard to torque the bolts properly. The top 3 exhaust manifold attachment points are studs so you can hang the exhaust on these and loosely tighten the nuts.. The top 4 intake attachment points are bolts. I would only put these on barely snug. The bottom row of 4 bolts hold both the intake and exhaust by using a large thick tapered washer that bridges across them. These are hard to get at, but tighten to between 9-12 ft lbs then tighten all the top ones the same amount. 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks this is the pattern of torque i followed from one of your previous posts..i did put the dowels back in and it was seated well..yes those bolts are a bitch ..whenever i take bolts out i put them in a piece of cardboard..i literally wrote bitch right above the 2nd to rear bolt under intake ..i have the intake off now and im at a loss as to where water could even get in from intake?

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NO!!! way too early for that.

 

 

IMG_20210322_162004788.thumb.jpg.8c25ddf

 

 Look along the bottom of the head below the #1 spark plug. Is this a U60 or U67 head???????

 

u67_rebuilt_head.jpg

 

Why was the head gasket changed?

What was done other than changing the head gasket. Was the timing cover off?

Are there any obvious coolant leaks on the block?

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Water in oil, gotta be the head gasket. Would need to know details on how you checked the head and block for flatness. What did you torque the head bolts to? Did you follow the correct tightening sequence?

 

If the intake gasket was leaking, it would either go outside on the ground, in the exhaust, in the intake, or in the cylinders. If it made it into the cylinders, it's pretty much just going to stay there. If it sat for a bit, it could leak past the rings and get into the oil, but if you just started it, then likely not enough time for that to happen. What would happen in that case is, it would smoke out the tail pipe, or the engine would lock up and not spin. It would effectively be seized until the water was removed from the cylinder.

 

My wild guess in this situation without more info is that the head or block surface isn't true, you didn't have the alignment head alignment dowels in place causing the gasket to be installed wrong, incorrect torque spec or pattern, or you had water in the oil as a result of removing the head without changing post replacement of the head.

Edited by Draker
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2 minutes ago, Draker said:

or you had water in the oil as a result of removing the head without changing post replacement of the head.

Changed oil after head gasket was removed..could it be residual?..its alot i mean white oil dropping oil pump..

As far as history i bought truck truck overheated..was working on cooling it down and looking for leaks noticed obvious leake under manifold not sure if was head or intake..shut it down wouldnt start because it was siezed from water in block..changed head gasket and timing set changed oil..immediately in start up water in oil

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IMG_20210322_162004788.thumb.jpg.8c25ddf

 

I expected an A87 in a '74 with an L18 engine but have never see another L head without the coolant holes other than the U67. Are the holes maybe sealed up or threaded with plugs???

 

 

Water can also enter from a cracked timing cover or bad gasket on it.

If there is a hole behind the water pump same thing.

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Whw

3 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Are the holes maybe sealed up or threaded with plugs???

I noticed when i took the intake off that on the intake the holes were plugged with what seemed like dirt..no shit .i cleaned them out and then noticed no holes on the head?..maybe they are just plugged up..do those holes on intake move coolant?..because if so wouldn't they hit the block and have nowhere to go but past the gasket?..thanks

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6 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Water can also enter from a cracked timing cover or bad gasket on it.

If there is a hole behind the water pump same thing.

Great points Mike! 

 

I forgot about those two.

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The block is under pressure from the water pump. Most comes out the thermostat to the rad hose but there are (or until now)  should be an opening under each pair of intake ports for coolant to flow out and into the intake.

 

Poke those holes in the head or take a better picture. Also the mating surface of the intake to show those holes.

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You know what that crap looks like in the holes???? Those rad leak tablets to stop leaks. Mostly aluminum powder. The worst thing to ever do to an engine. Bet the heater core and rads are part plugged too. It's not at all a fix but intended to only get you home so you can fix it. Previous owners, eh?

 

That needs flushing out of everything.

 

IMG_20210322_171955423.thumb.jpg.ae50ba2

 

Gasket was blown and run for a long time to have that much gasket missing. Was the head surface in that area damaged???

 

 

Did you say you replaced the gasket and saw water leaking or saw water and changed the gasket?

 

 

 

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