Help Identifying This Parts - 1984 Nissan 720 Sunrader RV

[thisismatt]

2 hours ago, dhp123166 said:

 

What I choose to use on my vehicle is not the issue.

 

The o.p. asked for help and immediately out the gate was met with ( in effect) " Don't use poly bushings because they are horribly ineffective and you will suffer catastrophic vehicle failure if you do."

 

I am just offering my anecdotal experience as opposed to theoretical hysteria.

 

O.p. should have as much info on the topic as possible to make an educated decision.

 

B.T.W. I have used new rubber and it still wears faster than polyurethane.

Now who's putting words in other's mouths? 

 

The total range of motion is a few degrees. 

 

Both tension rods and bushings on each are torqued down.

 

There is no "swinging" per se happening during normal operation.

 

I fail to see how poly would differ much from rubber seeing as torque for both nuts is identical.

 

You can't see how they're different because the nut is torqued the same. When I show you how they are still different, you dismiss it out of hand. There *is* swinging, there *is* compliance difference. Maybe the op doesn't want a clapped out hooptie with more harshness and noise, and a higher risk of metal fatigue? That's not hysteria.

[dhp123166]

5 hours ago, thisismatt said:

Now who's putting words in other's mouths? 

 

 

 

 

You can't see how they're different because the nut is torqued the same. When I show you how they are still different, you dismiss it out of hand. There *is* swinging, there *is* compliance difference. Maybe the op doesn't want a clapped out hooptie with more harshness and noise, and a higher risk of metal fatigue? That's not hysteria.

 

Uh you were not showing anybody anything , regardless of what your dad says.

 

Just adding word salad to the obvious which has already been established ; rubber and polyurethane are different materials.

 

And if you wish to insult me again come and say it to my face.

 

 

Edited March 5, 2021 by dhp123166

[thisismatt]

35 minutes ago, dhp123166 said:

 

Uh you were not showing anybody anything , regardless of what your dad says.

 

Just adding word salad to the obvious which has already been established ; rubber and polyurethane are different materials.

 

And if you wish to insult me again come and say it to my face.

 

 

 

I fail to see how poly would differ much from rubber seeing as torque for both nuts is identical.

 

^^^ idiotic & conflicting.  You're the one driveling.  Like Mexico, I prefer to get past Ventura/Oxnard as quickly as possible when heading south, so no thanks. 

[dhp123166]

23 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

 

 

 

 

^^^ idiotic & conflicting.  You're the one driveling.  Like Mexico, I prefer to get past Ventura/Oxnard as quickly as possible when heading south, so no 

 

Says the guy who can barely afford to live in Santa Barbara.

 

Too funny, a rich guy attitude minus the rich! 

 

Of course you won't say anything insulting to anyones face because if they didn't before, now everybody knows what you really are...a regular joe racist, internet tough guy!!!!

 

Not that there is anything wrong with that...in fact you are in good company.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 5, 2021 by dhp123166

[Charlie69]

On 3/1/2021 at 12:47 AM, bluexl said:

Hi,

 

I needed help identifying what this rod that goes from the lower control arm to the front of the radiator support frame is. I wanted to replace the rubber bushings on it, but not sure what part it is exactly. Thanks.

 

Like Matt posted this is a Tension Control Rod, Strut Rod, or Radius rod.  The factory bushing still show available from Nissan.  If you go to a Nissan parts place to order them be sure to take you VIN # with you. This is because it is a motorhome chassis.

 

They are available from Rock Auto in rubber and poly.  My preferenece is the rubber smoother ride and not noisy like the polly.  One thing that may help in these bushings going bad is upper and lower control arm bushings, if these are worn out change them at the same time as the you do the strut rod bushings.

[thisismatt]

1 hour ago, dhp123166 said:

 

Says the guy who can barely afford to live in Santa Barbara.

 

Too funny, a rich guy attitude minus the rich! 

 

Of course you won't say anything insulting to anyones face because if they didn't before, now everybody knows what you really are...a regular joe racist, internet tough guy!!!!

 

Not that there is anything wrong with that...in fact you are in good company.

 

 

 

 

 

Fortunately, calling someone a racist doesn't make it true.  You're the tough guy, though, knowing I'm not going to waste my time driving to Ventura to spar with a halfwit who doesn't understand the basics of a bushing.  Keep on keeping on, you do you, bro

[dhp123166]

11 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

Tension control rod to frame (bushing end) the torque is 118 to 157 ft lbs.  The bolts to the control arms have a torque setting of 38 to 52 ft lbs.

 

 

 

 

Not sure where you got your numbers from but the Datsun Factory Service Manual thusly states;

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I dare say that overtourqued rubber might act like....polyurethane!!!!!

Edited March 5, 2021 by dhp123166

[dhp123166]

6 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

Fortunately, calling someone a racist doesn't make it true.  You're the tough guy, though, knowing I'm not going to waste my time driving to Ventura to spar with a halfwit who doesn't understand the basics of a bushing.  Keep on keeping on, you do you, bro

 

 

Half wit? Ha ha, everyone can see your superior intellect as it manifests in your wise life choices!!!

[thisismatt]

3 minutes ago, dhp123166 said:

 

 

Not sure where you got your numbers from but the Datsun Factory Service Manual thusly states;

 

 

 

 

 

See, you're just a f'ing jackass for the sake of being a f'ing jackass. So, he misspoke and listed the newton meters instead of the foot pounds. Why not just point that out instead of being an a-hole?

[thisismatt]

Just now, dhp123166 said:

 

 

Half wit? Ha ha, everyone can see your superior intellect as it manifests in your wise life choices!!!

What poor life choices? Deciding, yes, by choice, not to buy a house in a ridiculous market and be house-poor? Ok, mr government townhouse. 

[dhp123166]

13 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

See, you're just a f'ing jackass for the sake of being a f'ing jackass. So, he misspoke and listed the newton meters instead of the foot pounds. Why not just point that out instead of being an a-hole?

 

First off, he did not speak it he wrote it.

 

I legitimately asked where he got his numbers from. The rest is in your head.

[dhp123166]

14 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

What poor life choices? Deciding, yes, by choice, not to buy a house in a ridiculous market and be house-poor? Ok, mr government townhouse. 

Government town home? No, a decent condominium that is appreciating nicely and in which we have a ton of equity.

 

Property owning in SoCal. is the best investment but hey its okay to wait as the prices are sure to drop eh?

[Charlie69]

1 hour ago, dhp123166 said:

 

 

Not sure where you got your numbers from but the Datsun Factory Service Manual thusly states;

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I dare say that overtourqued rubber might act like....polyurethane!!!!!

Not sure why you are attacking me now but I will say this here on line and also if I ever see you in person I will say the same thing to your face FUCK OFF ASSHOLE>  People like you should not live in a free society!

 

There is a sleeve in the bushing that takes the torque not the bushing dumb ass.

Edited March 5, 2021 by Charlie69

[datzenmike]

It's an '84 but I checked and the 2wd and 4wd are the same and the '81 numbers are close enough.

[dhp123166]

8 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

Not sure why you are attacking me now bu I wil say this here on line and also if I ever see you in person I will say the same thing to your face FUCK OFF ASSHOLE>  People like you should not live in a free society!

Who is attacking you? 

 

Your numbers do not match the '81 FSM.

 

As far as the insults and opinions, carry on, its funny watching you get torqued properly.

Edited March 5, 2021 by dhp123166

[datzenmike]

As the poly will not compress nearly as much as real rubber the tension rod will not be pulled forward the correct amount when the nut is tightened. This will locate the LCA farther to the rear. This would definitely need an alignment after.

[dhp123166]

13 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

As the poly will not compress nearly as much as real rubber the tension rod will not be pulled forward the correct amount when the nut is tightened. This will locate the LCA farther to the rear. This would definitely need an alignment after.

Actually this statement leads me back into what I was getting at ( albeit incompletely) with my first statement about torque.

 

Under 100 ft. lbs ( average ) of torque ( which is a helluva lot of pressure) are the differences between rubber and polyurethane really that great or appreciable?

 

But as alignment happens in minute increments, maybe so.

[thisismatt]

24 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

As the poly will not compress nearly as much as real rubber the tension rod will not be pulled forward the correct amount when the nut is tightened. This will locate the LCA farther to the rear. This would definitely need an alignment after.

There should be a metal sleeve in the middle that gets clamped by the nut, so it should end up in the same spot either way unless the poly is too large to begin with given it's lower compliance.

[datzenmike]

 

4 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

There should be a metal sleeve in the middle that gets clamped by the nut, so it should end up in the same spot either way unless the poly is too large to begin with given it's lower compliance.

 

Yes the nut has to bottom out on the sleeve.

 

 

Can't find it in the '84 FSM but I'm sure that one of the manuals had some measurement after torquing. If the measurement can't be met the bushings have to be replaced or perhaps the tension rod. Doesn't seem to be the case here.

[dhp123166]

As a 720 owner I can verify the nut bottoms out on the sleeve regardless of whether polyurethane or rubber bushings are installed.

 

And I can verify that the torque measurements in the FSM are correct for my vehicle. 

 

Using my skateboard experience as an anecdotal reference, polyurethane skateboard truck bushings appeared about the time they became available for automobiles. At lower torque, that is when looser trucks were desired, rubber definitely felt "softer" than polyurethane when torqued identically.

 

However when the skateboard trucks were tightened down to a level where they would not budge ( for downhill skateboarding) there was no difference in the feel between rubber and polyurethane and there was no difference in performance.

 

I feel this is applicable to the discussion.

 

Edited March 5, 2021 by dhp123166

[Charlie69]

I made a mistake and listed the torque specs for Newton Meters instead of Foot pounds.  Foot pounds is the last numbers in the torque specs in the Nissan/Datsun Factory Service Manuals (FSM).

Listed like this in the FSMs:

T 38 - 52

(3.9 - 5.3, 28 - 38)

For demonstration purposes using the actual torque specs for the torsion control rods from the manuals.

 38 - 52  (3.9-5.3,    28 - 38) lower control arm torsion control bar bolt and nuts. What I would torque these to is 33 ft lb.

118 - 157 (12 - 16,    87 - 116) bushing end nut.  What I would torque these to is 106 ft lb.

  N-m          kg-m        ft-lb

 

Here are the torsion control rod torque spec pages for the different manuals I own.

1980 FSM Pages FA-2, FA-6, FA-8

1981 FSM Pages FA-2, FA-6, FA-8

1982 Do not own

1983 Do not own

1984 FSM Friend has my manual

1985 FSM Pages FA-2, FA-6, FA-8

1986 FSM Pages FA-2, FA-6, FA-8

I physically checked each manual for the page numbers.

Edited March 5, 2021 by Charlie69

[bluexl]

Hey Everyone, I Just wanted to post an update. I ordered the OEM NIssan bushings from Amazon. Everything else I found at my local parts stores which are NAPA, Autozone, O'reiley's and Parts Authority oly had the blue Polyurethane. So I will post a photo of the part once it arrives.

 

This was the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F66U526/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Thanks for all the helpful responses.

 

 

 

 

[KELMO]

Do not want to be that guy but....

I seen this post yesterday morning and the link posted seemed odd to me. The statement that the bushings are OEM and at the price listed are questionable at best.

The claim of OEM and the price piqued my interest. And, no picture of the product. The price they have is almost a dollar under Nissan Dealer Net and I think it was stated in this thread that they are still available through Nissan ( I think the number was close to 100 still available). My question is how can an Aftermarket Distributor carry OEM parts and retail them at a lower price than a dealer can buy them at?

I am not putting this out there to be a "Davey Downer" but as a cautionary tale to make sure what you are buying is really what you think you are buying

 

I've said it before and I will say it again. If anyone needs help finding part #'s and checking availability, I am more that happy to help. Just send me a PM. I may be a little slow but I will get to it.

[datzenmike]

OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer. As most suppliers are probably in Japan, or nearby, it's unlikely these are actually made by the company Nissan used almost 40 years ago!!!!! Usually they say' OEM quality' to get around this. All after market outlets do and that is questionable at best. The Nissan dealer marks up the price of parts +- 50% so my rule of thumb is if you find an after market part that is about 1/2 the dealer price then the quality is (maybe) the same as the Nissan original.... (maybe) An alternator is almost $400 so is it any wonder that your $60 AutoZone or RockAuto one was 'bad in the box'?????? The clutch slave is $59 vs. the $9 one you got a deal on.

 

 

[bluexl]

16 hours ago, KELMO said:

Do not want to be that guy but....

I seen this post yesterday morning and the link posted seemed odd to me. The statement that the bushings are OEM and at the price listed are questionable at best.

The claim of OEM and the price piqued my interest. And, no picture of the product. The price they have is almost a dollar under Nissan Dealer Net and I think it was stated in this thread that they are still available through Nissan ( I think the number was close to 100 still available). My question is how can an Aftermarket Distributor carry OEM parts and retail them at a lower price than a dealer can buy them at?

I am not putting this out there to be a "Davey Downer" but as a cautionary tale to make sure what you are buying is really what you think you are buying

 

I've said it before and I will say it again. If anyone needs help finding part #'s and checking availability, I am more that happy to help. Just send me a PM. I may be a little slow but I will get to it.

 

 

 

The part came in. I have a black Polyurethane set to compare the "OEM" new rubber ones too. Hope this is useful.