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1982 Carb issues


taylorKelowna

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hello,

first time posting-  I have a 1982. 720 two wheel drive truck, someone has messed with carb for the past, truck only has 68,000km on it so I want get it running correctly.

a few mechanics have tried but seems no one here in town has knowledge of these carbs.

question?  someone removed the vacuum canister, can I get carb running properly without canister? does anyone have a diagram of which vacuum hoses to plug and which ones not too? and where they go?

there seems too be lots of info after 83 but not much about 81-83 ??

any help would be appreciated !

as a side note, I did buy a used original carb from California, so now I have two carbs

thanks in advance

Taylor

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Hey Taylor welcome to Ratsun. We'll try to get you running.

 

A California carburetor might work but almost always it's emissions heavy and may not.

 

Vacuum canister? The evaporative emissions control canister? round black plastic mounted by the rad? Yes it will run without it but as it has no effect on actual running better to replace it if and when you can. There is a hose connected to the fuel tank... that should stay open. A second hose connects into the vacuum advance to the distributor ... this should be sealed or the leak will cause the loss of vacuum advance.  A third goes to the intake manifold.... that should be sealed to prevent vacuum loss. 

 

This is the vacuum hose routing for the federal and Canada emissions 81-82 720

 

wtRIpzG.jpg

 

Don't be shy, post some pictures of your 720. Maybe start a topic in project datto. They say a picture is worth a thousand words so one or two of your carburetor might help.

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If you can find one in a wrecking yard that has the vacuum, purge and gas tank marked on it, that should do. When engine is off, evaporated gas from the tank pushes out into the canister and is trapped in the activated charcoal inside. When the engine is started and warmed up, vacuum is supplied to the distributor vacuum advance and to the canister purge port. This purge opens the line to the intake vacuum and fumes are drawn in and burned instead of escaping. Simple and effective, and trouble free if the hoses are maintained.

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Thanks

I don't think there will be one at the wrecking yards here, can't seem to find anything.  only one online is from RockAuto. 167.00 plus

im ok with buying if you think this would be ok for install? 

yes I,m going to start a thread in datto, hopefully later tonight, thank you for suggestion..

another question for you? if you owned this truck, would you return to original? or get a webber and move on? what is easiest?  I want to keep truck for running around the orchard and keep it licensed,  but also want out to run properly

thx

Taylor

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The original carburetor is best over all for what I call drive ability. Good starts and running. A 32/36 Weber is an option but it has no provision for the stock air cleaner and it's ATC (automatic temperature control) which used heated air from the exhaust manifold and mixes it with ambient air from in front of the radiator keeping it at or near 37C. Thus the engine thinks it's summer and cold weather is ignored. If you get near and below freezing with sleet or high humidity carburetor icing is a real concern. If you go Webe, see about cutting the bottom of the stock filter and retro fitting to the Weber so you have this feature. There was a post on here, I think wayno has done this.

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At bottom of you post look for...

 

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