New to the family. Many questions. 1983 with Z24 2WD

[MGTS 50]

Well I see that whatever is supposed to toggle the clutch switch is missing. How often should I replace the O2 sensor? Where is the water temp sensor, and where is the temp gauge sensor. I want to make sure those are pugged in. The temp on the dash hasn't been working. Yea secondary is always bigger. I know that much from doing my Land Cruiser carb

[datzenmike 39,212]

Temp gauge sender is just below the thermostat on the intake and has a single Yellow/Black strip wire to it.

 

The temp sensor is listed as being on the intake, which doesn't help much. Look near the gauge sender, it will have a plastic end and a plastic plug in with two wires..

[MGTS 50]

Is this the speed sensor? I can't make sense of how it works

[datzenmike 39,212]

Probably. Does you speedo only go down to 10 MPH? Then most probably.

[MGTS 50]

If it is the speed sensor, what does it affect? How does it work? It doesn't seem to make any sense

[datzenmike 39,212]

The one on my B-210 was to tell the emissions system to reset the BCDD.

[MikeRL411 3,370]

1 hour ago, MGTS said:

Is this the speed sensor? I can't make sense of how it works

 Looks like the odometer.

[datzenmike 39,212]

Yes. The switch closes when the needle drops below 10 MPH.

[MGTS 50]

Finally found it in the manual. It's a 30,000 mile switch. It's an idiot light for the O2 sensor

[datzenmike 39,212]

AHhhh haaa!

[Charlie69 6,042]

4 hours ago, MGTS said:

Is this the speed sensor? I can't make sense of how it works

I removed mine and if I remember correctly there is one I believe for 60,000 mile for something else.

[datzenmike 39,212]

Clean the EGR valve with wire brush.

[MGTS 50]

I haven't found another switch like that.

 

EGR is clean

[MGTS 50]

The driveshaft yoke that goes into the end of my transmission is phuked. Is it possible to get a replacement? I'm not finding anything online. Is there a part number?

[datzenmike 39,212]

The 720 is sold as a complete driveshaft assy for $900. The trans spline and transmission seals are all the same so any spline will work. I could only find the 521, 510, Roadster, 240/260/280z, 610/710 listed. Some like the B-210 are non serviceable U joints and don't come apart. (easily) The Nissan part is 37111-14600 about $70 (I think this is in Canadian $)

 

Best bet is a want ad for a used one...  https://ratsun.net/classifieds/category/9-datsun-parts/  ... 620 should work or 720 if you can find one but not the 4x4.

[Charlie69 6,042]

Check Napa or a good drive shaft shop for a repair sleeve.  Last option would be have a machine shop weld it up and then turn it to spec.  Be like a new one.  Used to do this for my 50 Willys truck it ate front yokes.

[MGTS 50]

I wasn't paying attention, and I can't seem to find it in the book. Does it matter which ignition coil is intake and exhaust?

[datzenmike 39,212]

The engine won't know the difference during normal running. Both coils fire at the same time. Under heavy load the exhaust side coils are turned off to reduce engine noise. The coil high tension wires often get mistakenly swapped. The only reason for turning the exhaust off rather than the intake is because the tach signal is taken off the the intake.

 

The intake is powered directly from one of the fusible links through the ignition switch. The exhaust side is more or less the same but sent through a fuse in the fuse box. Why? Only Nissan knows.

 

 

[MGTS 50]

The problem: All new bulbs everywhere. Headlights do whatever they want. High beams don't switch on, ZERO running lights, turn signals light up front and rear, but flash quickly, hazard flashers don't work at all, reverse lights don't work. Brake lights work fine. Maybe a ground problem? Electrical is not my strong suit. Where should I start looking?

Edited April 5 by MGTS

[datzenmike 39,212]

If the brakes work then the ground is working.

 

If your interior light is not working then change the number 13 fuse or the 3rd one from the front of the fuse box. This should get your running lights working also.

 

Take the two part 'clam shell' off the steering column so you can get at the light switch/turn signal switch. Get an aerosol can of contact cleaner and spray it well to clean out any dirt collecting grease. Work the switch while doing so. It this doesn't help take the steering wheel off and really get that spray in there.

 

Try swapping the turn and 4 way flasher units. If the 4 way begin working then the 4 way flasher unit was bad. As to the faster flashing turn signals maybe the flasher unit was changed to a wrong one.

 

If your dash gauges are working then the fuse for the reverse lights is fine. if no dash gauges change the 4th fuse over to the right from the left hand side.  On the 5 speed transmission just to the rear of the clutch arm dust boot is the reverse switch. It has two Black/Red stripe wires. Unplug and make a wire jumper to join them on the harness. With the ignition ON the reverse lights should light. If they do the switch is bad. If they don't check for 12v on one of those wires.

[MGTS 50]

Rebuilt the switches on the stalk. Found all the contacts were corroded. Now it works perfect! 

 

But the turn signals still flash quickly. The hazards flash normally

Edited Wednesday at 09:23 PM by MGTS

[datzenmike 39,212]

Are there extra lamps for signalling at the back or front??? Buy an electronic flasher or go to a wrecking yard and grab one. They are larger and you can see electronic components inside.

[MGTS 50]

Extra lamps? I'm not following at all

 

The truck is completely stock

Edited Thursday at 01:05 AM by MGTS

[datzenmike 39,212]

Good enough. The flasher is load dependent. If you were pulling a trailer the extra lamps would make if flash faster. If a bulb burned out it would stop flashing.

[MGTS 50]

Oh there is some sketchy trailer wiring in the back. I'm going to remove it and see what happens