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MGTS

New to the family. Many questions. 1983 with Z24 2WD

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So I picked up an 83 720 (Z24) 2WD for pretty cheap. 140k miles. Body is decent, but it needs a LOT of mechanical work. I'm starting to make my list. It's the super base trim. No tach, no trip meter. I really want to get a cluster with a tach and trip meter, don't need the clock. Is my truck already wired for the tach? Can I just plug-n-play?

 

How much blow-by is normal? There seems to be quite a bit. I've got 180-185 psi in all cylinders and adjusted valves to .012 hot.

 

How advanced should the timing be at idle? I pulled and plugged the advance and set to 4 degrees. With advance connected it sits around 30 degrees advanced

 

What are some good sites for used or aftermarket parts? I really need to replace the bench seat in my truck. I'm 90% sure it's not the bench that came with it. I also want to replace some light covers and could used a grilled that's not cracked

 

Thanks!

 

 

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Tach and clock are plug and play

 

180 is very good so I can't see blow by being a problem. What do you define blow by as???

 

These parts are not really available as there isn't a market to support the sellers. Best option is to get them from another truck, as in a wrecking yard. Consumable parts, those that wear out like u joints, brake pads, calipers, drums and rotors, suspension parts and ball joints, bulbs and such go to any auto parts store such as NAPA.

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I will get a video at some point tomorrow of the blow-by.

 

How is the OEM support of wear items? I always try to get OEM seals and bearings

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Don't mistake normal condensation (steamy exhaust) in cooler weather. Goes away when engine warms up.

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Here is the video

 

My other questions that haven't been answered yet.

 

How advanced should the timing be at idle? I pulled and plugged the advance and set to 4 degrees. With advance connected it sits around 30 degrees advanced

 

How is the OEM support of wear items? I always try to get OEM seals and bearings

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Idle is way toooooo high. Should be 700 +/-. Above 800/900 the distributor will begin to add centrifugal (or mechanical) advance. Make sure engine is warmed up before setting anything.

 

 

4 degrees advance before TDC is correct. Follow the vacuum advance back to it's source. It should go the the outlet on the passenger side fender of the carburetor. There should be 2 of them the rear most is for the EGR and the front one for the vacuum advance. The timing should not be 30 degrees so either the advance hose is somehow connected to the intake vacuum or the gauge is wrong or read wrong.

 

Blow by shouldn't be that bad. Are you sure you have 180/185 PSI compression??? What's it like with the vacuum advance hose off???

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The vacuum advance is not connected correctly. Is there a really good CA emissions diagram? I see a lot of T connectors in the lines

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Tv7aSwz.jpg

 

This is federal emissions but the vacuum advance is same

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Excellent. I need to get me a service manual. Nissan, Chilton, or Haynes? I really want a Nissan, but I am seeing them for $80-100

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Get only the '83 FSM (factory service manual) all others are 1/2 inch thick at best and cover multiple years and very generalized. The FSM is over and inch and only covers your year. Has EVERYTHING. $80 would be when they were new. Get a used one. $80????? you'll save that the first time you use it. What does a mechanic charge per hour???

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Ok got vacuum squared away and idle is stable. There is a thing on the back of the carb that pushes on the throttle linkage. It looks like there is a vacuum port on it but nothing is connected. What is it?
iIk55EM.jpg

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Idle up solenoid, AKA the FICD (fast idle control device) When the air conditioner is turned on an electrical solenoid opens a valve allowing intake vacuum to the FICD which moves a plunger out and holds the throttle slightly open at idle. 

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You can find the Nissan Factory Service Manuals (FSM) used on ebay usually.

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Ok, I see that some vacuum hoses have little brass reducers inside them. Which ones? I don't trust the work that's been done by the previous owner

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The little reducers retard the vacuum action so a sudden but transient signal doesn't signal the emissions on or off too soon. The California emissions must be a nightmare.  

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

  The California emissions must be a nightmare.  

 

No idea, wouldn't even try to figure that out. I think the hoses have little paint splotches on them to identify.

 

1 hour ago, MGTS said:

And when should I replace the timing chain/guides/tensioner?

 

When it's worn out.

 

I've never seen one wore out. The tension and slack side guides plus the tensioner are 'rubber'* coated. They wear out and are obvious. Owners seeing that just change everything. For chain/sprocket wear you move to the #3 hole but never seen anyone ever do this. Make sure it's from Japan.

 

* not rubber but some hard plastic, maybe Teflon? Nylon?

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