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JDH6

L20 swap for 510

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Just now, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I used to buildengines for a living, when I worked for Rebello Racing. Now I have my own business building and restoring vintage 4x4s.

 

Mike and I used to race 510s together. He's a really cool dude. And he comes across some pretty rare and valuable carb related stuff. All of his carbs come out looking out of the box new.

Oh sweet! Would you say the best route would be to get a L20 and drop it in and then build a head ? With dual side drafts? Or is the Z22 the better option, since it would be better to bore down the road? 

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I don't really like the Z22 as a stock bottom end. The long stroke doesn't blend well with the whole 510 experience. I like the smooth power that comes along with the shorter stroke of the L20B/Z20.

 

Don't get me wrong, the long stroke motors can be built to make tons of HP (around 240), but I still prefer the long rod 2.0L or custom 2.2L.

 

If you can get a Z22, buy it, because it is a good block to use for a custom long rod 2200.

 

I guess it all depends on your budget and your expectations. If the L20B is in good shape, the ported head and dual carbs, big exhaust and re-curved distributor will waken it up and make it a lot of fun to drive. If you do plan on building a larger motor in the future, with HP in the 200 or more range, build a 2.5" exhaust instead of the 2". You will have to modify the crossmember for the 2.5" to fit, but that's easy. You can always use the built head on the new bigger bottom end too, so that's not money wasted.

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3 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I don't really like the Z22 as a stock bottom end. The long stroke doesn't blend well with the whole 510 experience. I like the smooth power that comes along with the shorter stroke of the L20B/Z20.

 

Don't get me wrong, the long stroke motors can be built to make tons of HP (around 240), but I still prefer the long rod 2.0L or custom 2.2L.

 

If you can get a Z22, buy it, because it is a good block to use for a custom long rod 2200.

 

I guess it all depends on your budget and your expectations. If the L20B is in good shape, the ported head and dual carbs, big exhaust and re-curved distributor will waken it up and make it a lot of fun to drive. If you do plan on building a larger motor in the future, with HP in the 200 or more range, build a 2.5" exhaust instead of the 2". You will have to modify the crossmember for the 2.5" to fit, but that's easy. You can always use the built head on the new bigger bottom end too, so that's not money wasted.

ok great, seems like the l20 is the way to go for me, and do a built head, with side drafts. thanks for all of the help. I appreciate it

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if your broke$$$$$

put a L20 in and a 38/38 weber DGES  I think it is. can be done in a day or 2

going from stock L16 to the above youll think you turboed the fucker

 

However finding a L20 is like finding a unicorn in PA

Edited by banzai510(hainz)

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7 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

You can open a can of worms for 3-4K, but you can't really build a performance engine for that. You could start on the road to horsepower with the head. Have it (or another head) ported and install big valves, good valve springs and a nice cam. Then eventually, build yourself either a long rod Z20 bottom end or even a 2200 (which is a custom build entirely).

 

Dual carbs (Mikuni 44's or Weber 45's) and a good header with a 2.5" exhaust on your L20B with the good head and cam will make around 170 hp on pump gas. But carbs aren't cheap like they used to be. A Mikuni setup can set you back 3-4K easily. There is another brand of carbs that is gaining in popularity. OER carbs are similar to both Webers and Mikunis, but much cheaper.

 

For carbs, you could try Mike Malone in the Monterey, CA area. He restores and sells a lot of side draft Mikuni setups and his work is phenomenal. I can get you his contact info if you're interested.


I paid 600 for a used pair and another 600 to Wolf creek to rebuild them, about ten years ago.

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5 minutes ago, bastardo said:


I paid 600 for a used pair and another 600 to Wolf creek to rebuild them, about ten years ago.

sadly they are not that cheap anymore!

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Just now, JDH6 said:

sadly they are not that cheap anymore!


Yeah I got out of the Datsun game and six months later Datsuns were three times the price.

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I sold all of my stash of NOS Nissan Comp parts to Troy Ermish about 20 years ago for $15K. Those parts now would be worth $50K.

 

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12 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I sold all of my stash of NOS Nissan Comp parts to Troy Ermish about 20 years ago for $15K. Those parts now would be worth $50K.

 

Ya I have noticed mikunis have shot up like crazy!

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Just do a KA or SR swap and stop doing Witch Craft engine Frankenstein builds! 

 

I don't know why people keep building L engines anymore, other than racing in certain classes or just stuck in the past. 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Jesse C. said:

Just do a KA or SR swap and stop doing Witch Craft engine Frankenstein builds! 

 

I don't know why people keep building L engines anymore, other than racing in certain classes or just stuck in the past. 

 

 

Because some people care what it looks like under the hood. A KA makes perfect sense, but doesn't fill that need for vintage look.

 

I think you meant well with that comment, but it sure felt like a gut punch.

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12 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

 

Because some people care what it looks like under the hood. A KA makes perfect sense, but doesn't fill that need for vintage look.

 

I think you meant well with that comment, but it sure felt like a gut punch.

 

I can understand the Vintage look and all, but the LZ combo thing is so much trouble for not much. 

 

Just build a straight up L engine that will be reliable and achieve the end need of that vintage look. But to build an LZ is just a bit much for that. 

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An "LZ" is just a Z block and rods with custom pistons and an L head. If you're going to bore the block anyway, why not go big? Long rods are still easy enough to find and custom pistons are not as expensive as they used to be.

 

Too much trouble for who?

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My LZ build was straightforward, it's just like assembling any other motor. One heads up to JDH6 is if you do anything over an L series you are going to want to upgrade the brakes.

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I would up grade the brakes anyway when the time and pocketbook allow. They've come a long way in 50 years.

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42 minutes ago, bastardo said:

My LZ build was straightforward, it's just like assembling any other motor. One heads up to JDH6 is if you do anything over an L series you are going to want to upgrade the brakes.

Thank you, I have already upgraded the brakes, gotta be able to stop!

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7 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

I would up grade the brakes anyway when the time and pocketbook allow. They've come a long way in 50 years.

Agreed, I have already done that. Now looking for power!

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Good idea. Let's show just how nice an L motor looks.

 

These are all the most recent L motors I have worked on. They just look right, with that big valve cover and dual carbs.

 

Painter_Man_2300_Small_033_zpsih8qrkkm.j


Trevor_510_Small_022_zpsuaebw7of.jpg


IMG_3084Small.jpg


IMG_0572Small.jpg

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If you want a less expensive option than mikunis 46mm SUs will add to the spirited drive. Be prepared for machining, welding and fabricating though. 

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46mm SUs would be from a 240Z right? Those will fit an L series SU intake. (I know the Z carbs have 4 bolt mount like the Roadster carbs but they will bolt to the two bolt L series intake)

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