datzenmike Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 Connect up the ATC. This is what it's for.You don't need gas line anti freeze The 510 and all cars have it. It draws air past the hot exhaust to warm it and then into the carb. A sensor varies the vacuum gate in the snorkel, to mix hot with cold to maintain a steady 100F at all times. It will drive like it's the middle of June in February at -10F. In fact it will run like middle of June at any time of year (well unless it rises above 100 degrees F) A closely controlled air temp range improves the warm up driving, eliminates carb icing, improves mileage and the car performs much more evenly. Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 You can have carb icing at 10 degrees above freezing if the conditions are right. I've seen small aircraft go dead stick because of this numerous times. You could have a manual controlled heat flap and put a stove pipe on it. If it works on airplanes it'll work in a car. Then your in control of the carb heat. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 The Nissan ones are vacuum operated. There is a temperature controlled air bleed. Too cold, the air bleed closes and vacuum is applied to the vacuum operated valve and it opens to let in the warmed air. Too warm and the air bleed opens destroying the vacuum signal, and the valve closes off the warmed air and only allows air in from in front of the rad. If too cold and the warm air is being drawn in and the throttle is floored the vacuum signal drops and the vacuum valve only lets in cold air for best performance. No need to do anything it's all automatic. Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 Synced my carb using a synchrometer the other day. Its a totally different running engine! Idle is better and tip in is much better. 1 Quote Link to comment
Nismou20 Posted January 22, 2017 Report Share Posted January 22, 2017 To all those who have R1 carbs working on your various engines. How are you dealing with Reversion/Standoff? I have a set of Quad Flatslides and with the IR intake they spit fuel vapors back just as you blip the throttle. I realize that on bikes the engines rarely spend that much time in the low rpm range and so it's not much of a concern if you're wasting any fuel. On our cars the mileage really starts to suck. Are most of you just living with it? Quote Link to comment
Mister Vengeance Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 does anyone know if there is a manufacturer who makes a intake manifold to mate R1 carbs to L series motors?.. considering these for my Z.. Quote Link to comment
Lozer Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 To all those drilling out their main jets to 2mm, I just had to solder and redrill mine down to 1.8mm for my rx1 Ka build, and it's still to rich at WOT. Wide band says 11.2ish Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Could this be reversion as mentioned above your post? Air is spit out the throttle opening along with fuel, then sucked back in and the carb just does it's job and adds more fuel to the already rich air??? Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 To all those drilling out their main jets to 2mm, I just had to solder and redrill mine down to 1.8mm for my rx1 Ka build, and it's still to rich at WOT. Wide band says 11.2ish If you filled in the air holes like mentioned in one of the previous posts, you should find that you will need jets much smaller than 180. After filling the air jet holes, I ended up using 150s. 1 Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 To all those who have R1 carbs working on your various engines. How are you dealing with Reversion/Standoff? I have a set of Quad Flatslides and with the IR intake they spit fuel vapors back just as you blip the throttle. I realize that on bikes the engines rarely spend that much time in the low rpm range and so it's not much of a concern if you're wasting any fuel. On our cars the mileage really starts to suck. Are most of you just living with it? I havent experienced this. Have you synced the carbs and adjusted the idle screws? Quote Link to comment
Lozer Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 If you filled in the air holes like mentioned in one of the previous posts, you should find that you will need jets much smaller than 180. After filling the air jet holes, I ended up using 150s. Ill give it a wack. Quote Link to comment
Loryde520 Posted January 29, 2017 Report Share Posted January 29, 2017 does anyone know if there is a manufacturer who makes a intake manifold to mate R1 carbs to L series motors?.. considering these for my Z.. Bogg Bros in the UK. Top Notch! Quote Link to comment
Loryde520 Posted January 29, 2017 Report Share Posted January 29, 2017 I will give an overview of my successful R1 carb set-up. This may answer some previous unkowns. I had my intake made by Bogg Bros. in the UK. I had them install small vacuum ports on all 4 runners, for vacuum advance only. I am running my block breather to open air, as advised by Steven Bogg. I took my carbs completely apart, and cleaned everything, reset the floats and drilled my mains to 1.8mm for my L20B then set my (synced) my throttle plates with a feeler gauge. I also put the C clips on the middle groove. The idle mixture screws are turned out approximately 3 turns just to get it running at first. All this can be adjusted to your set-up, what ever you need to maximize these carbs and not idle/run too lean or rich. At first install I plugged all 3 ports and ran my distributor to just one port which was a fail. For one, my dizzy had a hole in the diaphram and two, it was a pulsing vacuum signal. I then tied all 4 ports together via T fittings for a stronger, even, signal. I fixed the diaphram and Voila! She pulls super hard now! I run a stock mechanical pump with a pressure regulator at 3.5 psi. The R1's will leak at anything much over. I hooked up the enrichen valves to a choke cable for cold starts, which seems to work fine. I did not run coolant thru the carbs like they are on the bikes, no icing at all. However, my truck doesn't see the road in the winter. At first I was running no air filters thinking I wouldn't restrict any air flow. I was wrong. After some advice from my motorbike mechanic, I was advised the filters help with the mixing of the air/fuel mixture. He was right! It ran better a under acceleration. There were many trips around the block for timing, mixture and C clip settings. I was running 94 octane at first, but have been running 91 since.The truck was running a little hotter with 94. My plugs are always clean. The fuel mileage isn't the best probably because of my low rear gears and my heavy foot, but who the hell cares. It's a blast to drive! They best way to really tune your settings is with an AFR wide band. This is my next addition as soon as I can find a header so I can weld the bung into.Also, I am installing my 5 speed for a little more top end drive ability. I would recommend anyone wanting to run these carbs, pickup an extra set of float valves and bowl gaskets at your local Yamaha dealer. This seemed to be the biggest problem I've had. I hope this will answer some questions for anyone wanting to use this set up. 2 Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 Anyone have a source for the metal Tees and metal tops for these carbs? I heard after around 10psi of boost these start to fail. Thanks MantisX Quote Link to comment
Mattndew76 Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 I am going to make some metal diaphragm caps. I imagine you could buy some brass pneumatic T's to replace the plastic ones. Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted March 14, 2017 Report Share Posted March 14, 2017 I think im going to remove them and coat them in some fiberglass resin. I figure they should only need to be slightly thicker in order to take a good amount of boost. MantisX Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted March 14, 2017 Report Share Posted March 14, 2017 Fiberglass resin is brittle, and will look like crap. See what Mattndew comes up with first. 2 Quote Link to comment
Mattndew76 Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 Good News for the L-Series owners. I have an L20B arriving at the house the 24th of this month. So these little carb manifolds will be available for the L motors very soon. In regards to the CVK diaphragm caps I will post an image of the CAD model this week. They won't look ugly, and shouldn't cost a premium. Watch the group buy discussion thread here http://community.ratsun.net/topic/67512-datsun-billet-group-buy-interest/ 2 Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Anyone have a source for the metal Tees and metal tops for these carbs? I heard after around 10psi of boost these start to fail. Thanks MantisX Google RX1 turbo, I remember they sold the aluminum caps as part of the snowmobile turbo kit. Also, kinda awesome this thread is still going!! I've been away from ratsun a while, but the R1 carb'd KA still runnin strong! I don't even remember all the jetting details haha. I may have to revisit that this summer. Quote Link to comment
MantisX620 Posted March 25, 2017 Report Share Posted March 25, 2017 I drove my turbo setup for the first time today and with a main jet change to lean it out some up top, I think I'll be good for 6lbs. Runs awesome part throttle. One issue I'm trying to track down though, is the rpm hangs at about 2k on gear changes. When it's hanging, my AFRs are around 11.5-12. After about a second or 2, the rpms fall as normal. Should I lean out the pilot jet? I figure during gear changes the carbs are switching between the pilot and needle jet/jet needle? Thanks MantisX Quote Link to comment
hendrik6073 Posted April 6, 2017 Report Share Posted April 6, 2017 Not enough fuel delivery, you are sucking the carbs dry. Got my DynoJet kit, hope to have some time these weeks to expiriment with it. Do i understand it right that i could use the DCO500 plugs if i expirience a sudden jump to value 19 if i drive a continous speed ? When i drive the highway for example 120 kmh for a longer time suddenly the afr goes to 19. i have to slow down or play the throttle to get i back to normal. than values stay right for a time an suddenly jumps to 19 again. thanks okay, should't i notice that in behavior ? engine seems to run fine at those moments, can push the throttle, car speeds up. runs smooth....... hi, it has been a while, last season i drove the car like it was, because i just wanted to drive and not have the car on the ramp all the time. Now the new season is there, just drove the car again first time this year, liked it a lot ! AFR gauge still jumps to 19 all of a sudden. Last year G-Duax said it could be i am sucking the carbs dry. Before i gonna reroute the fuel lines and maybe upgrade to a higher volume fuel pump. i would expect the cat not running smooth when the carbs are dry and i push the throttle ? or am i wrong ? Quote Link to comment
hendrik6073 Posted April 23, 2017 Report Share Posted April 23, 2017 what kind of electric fuel pump others are using with this carburators ? what maximum pressure could i use ? thanks. Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted April 24, 2017 Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 I just picked up a Carter P60504, that is their low pressure inline rotary pump. Cost a whole whopping $34 to my door, off eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/252116604571?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Rated at 4 psi max. Was going to install it this past weekend, but had some damn respiratory bug, so it's still sitting on my work bench. Quote Link to comment
Mattndew76 Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 These carbs have to be regulated to 2-lbs aren't they? Quote Link to comment
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