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R1 Carbs (lots of pics)


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here's an update for you guys...

 

I've been running the carb for awhile now, taken several drives, and I am pleasently surprised at well they work. The only thing I've done thus far, is to lean them out by one notch on the fuel mixture needles... Using my wideband nostril sensor, I came to the conclusion that it was running a little rich, also my tear duct sensor releasing fluid clues me in as well... After adjusting the mixture I have taken several spirited drives and upon pulling the the plugs for reading they came out as a perfect light tan color.

 

I posted on another forum about this setup and was given a hard time cause I won't dyno it... I don't really see the point, plugs look good, car runs and drives great, and I doubt there's much power to be made in tuning... Maybe 5hp max.

 

The I only problem I have run into is that it feels like when I run the car from a stop through the gears at 6500rpm per shift, it's running out of fuel around 5000rpm in 4th (4spd tranny)... This was expected however cause I am running the stock fuel pump. In the article they suggest using a high volume/low pressure electric pump, I agree. I have read that people are having good results with the R1 stock electric pump... The stock L series mechanical pump is the right pressure, but not high enough volume at prolonged high rpm. A spirited drive through the canyons, or autocross would be fine, since it doesn't use as much fuel in a short "burst"... In reality, how often do you go from zero to 5000+rpm in top gear.

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I followed your post on the realm... I don't post much over there, seems like a lot of nit-picking if you don't have "proof"...

 

I've read of guys using stock fuel pumps and making them boost referenced on turbo applications... I wonder if there is a way to modify a stock pump in a different way to make it work.

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overall the car runs awesome, and pulls hard. I've driven fast cars, and quick cars... The L16 is neither... But I am still quite satisfied with results, i'd love to try these on a bigger motor. The sound is nothing short of amazing!

 

Oh... And these results are based on a motor with low compression numbers also... So I can only imagine how entertaining it would be on a healthy one.

Edited by zuum510
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Zuum, how is the fuel fed to the carb? If it is fed in from one end and connected in series there will be a pressure drop at each carb leaving the the carb at the far end a little short on a long enough full throttle run. Maybe longer equal length tubing from each carb to a common connection from the fuel pump.????

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Good read, I have a set off a XS1100 they sound so nice with a set of stacks on a bike they must realy howl when you draw more volume through them with the bigger displacment engine. Thinking about this application for the six clyinder Zs maybe use two sets off the Yamaha XS850 triple.

 

Very Cool and nice work!

 

1f36_1.jpg

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good to hear zumm i got my intake flanges from RacnJsn95 and they look great. thats as far as i have made it. im building my shop so everything has taken a back seat as the racecar needs to sit on its own wheels for the move to the new shop. after that the 620 can recieve some time. the positive results are very encouraging as my motor has good compression numbers and i have a flowbenched 219 sss head for the truck as well now. plus im gonna find some stacks and an aircleaner setup.

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This is some pretty cool stuff here. What I dont get is why some of you are worried about how to adapt a brake booster line. Simply install a port on one manifold runner and it will be fine. You dont have to worry about runability when your off the throttle and braking. If it gets stumbly then run one across all runners. Look at a weber or mikuni manifold.

As for the dizzy advance cant you remove some counterweights or something?

Being that you can use weber jets this may be something I would consider. Great work and way to write it up.

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running it across all ports will equalize the pressure that would be stolen from one cylinder, possibly causing it to run funny. and yes twin carb setups take it from one side only, but they also have a balance tube in most setups. i just wanna cover my bases, altho it would be nice to not have to build an ugly tube across the whole thing

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I would like to add that on the later Yamahas they have a tube built into the head that joins the carbs intake, they claim it increases low end. When you sync the carbs you remove a plug at one end and install a o ringed shaft so you can sync them more accurately. On your handmade intakes it would be a good idea to have small ports with hose nipples for syncing them like on the bikes. you can use one for your dist. advance and plug the others. on the XS1100 that is what they do. I would use a exaust air injection tubes setup (smog) or build somthing like one for the brake booster vac.

 

Peace WRAT

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A tip I learned a long time ago and seemes to have applied here; if you suspect fuel problem, check ignition. if you suspect ignition problem, check fuel.

 

So I swapped out the nikki pump for a 'ampco' (nikki clone) pump... and exactly same problem. So I decided it HAD to be my Jacobs ignition system... swapped out the jacobs CRAP!!! for a stock points coil... and can you guess? HELL YEAH! FIXED... wtf, I hate Jacobs. It even has more off the line power... Runs PERFECT, and pulls hard in every gear now. WHEW! I love free fixes.

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sorry fisch, unless someone local wants to volunteer to help me do it, I won't be able to. Its just too much trouble to do with my phone... you'll just have to take my word for it.

 

Someone should step up on that, after the trouble zuum has gone through to keep us informed the least someone could do is go for a fun ride and hold a cam.

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Agreed! I'd be over is a sec, if I wasn't on the other side of the country! This is a really cool thing you've done here Zuum. And if I haven't said it, the bike in your profile pic is a freakin work of art man.

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