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R1 Carbs (lots of pics)


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Drove her today using a temporary throttle cable setup... MAN she rips, does still need a bit of tuning but not much! Even up a hill, stomp the pedal and theres less hesitation than a DGV. One complaint I will address as time progresses is the short throttle movement, about one 2 inches of pedal movement between full throttle and off throttle... but this should be easily optimized with a customized pedal (ie; shorten the length of the arm above the pivot point, maybe move the pivot point up).

 

I am not running a vac advance and theres no issues with it at all... BTW racnjsn, these carbs will run at all sorts of angles, think about what the sport bike guys do... layin it hard in corners, straight up wheelies with the carbs pointing down at the ground, stoppies with carbs the other direction and they have no issues... I'd say this would be GREAT on a offroad rig.

 

Because the slide acts like a variable venturi, you still get bottom end torque... probably more so than a dgv which just opens the throttle plate when you step on it. With these you open the throttle plate and the slide opens more based on vacuum of the engine. The day I made the video the temp was in the 40s and she fired right up even without the choke on (not really a choke but more of an enrichment mechanism).

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Drove her today using a temporary throttle cable setup... MAN she rips, does still need a bit of tuning but not much! Even up a hill, stomp the pedal and theres less hesitation than a DGV.

 

Weber's don't have hesitation. Poorly tuned webers have hesitation. BertVorgon on the510realm has a dyno slip in hand for about 250 HP at the wheels with a downdraft Weber on his turbo L motor. I guarantee you he doesn't have any hesitation.

 

I am not running a vac advance and theres no issues with it at all...

 

It should run just fine with out a vacuum advance, BUT you are missing out on a sizeable amount of power if you don't install one. Motor speed increases, but fuel burn time doesn't. No advance is just like retarding your timing when you climb the RPM's. You need to start burning the air fuel mixture earlier so you reach peak pressure when you need it and not after the fact.

 

 

 

Awesome set up!!!! I love all custom motors, especially L motors:D

 

I'd be very curious to see what the AFR is reading on a WBO2. You could be driving around at 16 or 17:1 have bad things happen:mad: like less power than a Weber 32/36. Get it tuned on a WBO2 and that thing will be SICK!!!

 

Congrats on getting it running!! Looking forward to reading updates

Edited by heirfaus
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k i won a set on evilbay, 61 bux, some tard tried bidding on my 30 dollar set, so i had to go up.. this one comes with the airbox!! woo hoo, filters. and a coupla jetting kits. stage 2 tuned, whatever that means. i could use a flange, it would be easier than cutting up my spare z manifolds. so if i run a tube between the 2 rear ports, would that be enough vacuum for brakes? i could care less about the dizzy, i never plug them in, its for granny driving. i just get them proffesionally re-curved and youll never need it again.

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k i won a set on evilbay, 61 bux, some tard tried bidding on my 30 dollar set, so i had to go up.. this one comes with the airbox!! woo hoo, filters. and a coupla jetting kits. stage 2 tuned, whatever that means. i could use a flange, it would be easier than cutting up my spare z manifolds. so if i run a tube between the 2 rear ports, would that be enough vacuum for brakes? i could care less about the dizzy, i never plug them in, its for granny driving. i just get them proffesionally re-curved and youll never need it again.

 

that would have been me, lol

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If you are making your own manifold, make sure the flanges are the same thickness as stock or you have sealing problems... Oh and have fun welding farely thin tubes to 1/2" thick plate! :D

 

Shouldn't be bad, you have almost an .080" wall thickness. I called the waterjet guy today, and I can get a set of flanges for $43 out of .500" aluminum. I'm going to drop off a chunk tonight, and experiment with a manifold... I really just feel like welding something. What are the center to center measurements on the R1 carbs?

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Rcnjsn

the three spaces between the carbs is different by about a 1/4" on mine... You might want to wait till yours come to be sure they are spaced same as mine.

 

Kzj

If you look at my previous posts in this thread you will see some of the differences and similarities. They will work on a storck motor, can't speak of gas mileage specifically... But in theory they should get better mileage than side drafts, I doubt as good as a stock carb or dgv though... I spoke this as well.

 

When I take my first long enough trip I will get more specific.

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43 bux sounds reasonable to me. i just dont know how well the stock flange would weld being its cast crap. i have tig, so its no real biggie. plus i got a spare head at the shop to us as mock. so i just gonna have to get some tube. i may go larger diameter to match the huge ports on my sss head. plus i need a gasket to match it up with. i just want it flow well. the better the flow the happier ill be!!! thanks dwnshifter, i shoulda said i was going after them so we didnt have to bid against each other. there aare some for 80 buy it now, but its just the carbs. wait a bit, im sure more will appear

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Im interested in buying a manifold if anyone knows how to build. Just let me know whats up.:D

 

If you want to supply the carbs I will build you (or someone else) a manifold for the cost of my material, and throw in an extra $75 for Argon, Tig Rod, and a case of beer for my time (I won't drink it while I weld though;)).

 

I'll use the carbs to make a jig so I can make manifolds in the future without the carbs in hand. I was thinking about buying a set of carbs, but I can't see spending the money on something I won't end up using on my own rig. Something about the possibility of me being stuck out in the woods in the mud trying to screw with 4 carbs just doesn't sound good. I'll hold out for the efi on the 4x4.

 

Material Quote:

 

2 Flanges: $43.00

36" Aluminum tube (from McMasterCarr) 28.84 or 29.02 depending on carb size + 6.00 shipping

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Material total = ~78.00+75(argon, rod, beer)= 153.00

 

Doesn't sound like a bad deal to me? You'd have to sort out your own linkage though, and get your own hose or whatever you want to use to attach the carbs to the end of the manifold.

Edited by RacnJsn95
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guess what showed up today!!!!!! my carbs, in exellent shape with 2 airboxes! so i even get filters that are somewhat compact and look stockish. now i just gotta cut up some aluminum and bolt these things on. im not gonna get the flanges. stupid ups charged me another 56 bux at the door for brokerage :mad: i told the guy to ship regular mail so i dont get brokerage but he never read the notes. oh well they came, what more can a guy ask for off evilbay. there are some ports on these things, could one be used for my brakes? i would like to keep the mani clean as poss.

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I don't think you can use any of the ports for the brake booster... the 2 that stick out from the top are breathers of some sort for the slides, the one big one on the side is for coolant as far as I can tell from the R1 FSM, and the little one on the opposite side that looks like a vacuum port... its not, it connects to the other side of the coolant port, the 2 hoses that hang down between the carbs are breathers for the fuel bowls... and last on carb number 2 there is an inlet for fuel.

 

The knob hanging off of the carbs is the idle adjustment screw, I drilled a bigger hole in mine and bolted it to the strut tower on the 510... you'll have to figure something else out for the 620... or just let it hang.

 

PICS!!!

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i was just gonna put a small allen screw in the idle adjust area, unless this needs to be constantly adjusted. so that explains why all your ports are open then in the pix! i was wondering that and reading the article you linkied. this prolly wont get built until the new year as the typical craziness goes by. then the truck is in to get a major re-work with brakes tranny and carbs!

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