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New at engine rebuild L16


Richie

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Hey guys just updating. I got the head back today and man this mechanic lost my thermostat housing -_-.  It’s all good just another thing I have to figure out. Still waiting on the block. if you guys see anything wrong with the head just by the pictures let me know. Thanks
 

https://imgur.com/a/ECYtxw3

 

also do you guys think this is going to be a problem?

https://imgur.com/a/8pYJCSh

Edited by Richie
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It don't help.

Had to go out into the garage to see what it should look like. You are missing a pretty good chunk! Lay the water pump gasket on there. Your throwing money at this thing. I'd try and find a good frnt cover. But it worked before sooo?

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3LYFgWw.jpg

 

As long as no hole through the back where coolant can get into the timing chain area and down into the pan it's fine.

 

Mine looked like this

UINO6sf.jpg

 

Nothing a little JB Weld won't fix. It's not critical, it's a water pump. It'll work weather you fix or not.

 

iy2UvsI.jpg

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Yeh wish mine would have been in that good shape.  I had serious corrosion including holing, thought about jbweld but figured this piece was beyond that.  Making new gaskets for

block /cover interface will use rtv on the head/ oil pan interface. 

 

would post pics but havn't figured that one out and cant find a tutorial using simple search on this site. how about a some instructions on posting pics or where i can find that info on the site.

 

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Be sure to use a high in zinc oil to brake in that new cam.  I use the Shell Rotella T4 10W-30.  You can get at Amazon.  Use this for 500 miles then change oil and filter.  Use what oil you choose if not high in zinc the use a zinc oil adative.

 

Shell Rotella T4 10W-30 engine oil

 

Edited by Charlie69
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thanks although not needed for cam breakin on ohc engines i still use gm eos on the cam before start up.  just makes me feel better that i have that sticky lube on the cam before oil pressure comes up and there's oil circulating throughout.    additionally i use valvoline vr1 all the time.  my newer cars i just use a good grade of whatever mfg calls for, generally castrol   there may are higher zinc oils than vr1 on the market but vr1 is affordable and seems to work good for street use.  

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RE: forum links to info for adding photo's.  all seems too difficult to set up a url so i can stick pics in a folder then reference that site to add photos.  really?  cant find a simpler solution?  Guess i wont be adding photos to discussions on this site. 

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..and yet we all get by with something. Have you tried the ' choose files... ' bottom left when writing a reply? There is a file size limit 4MB. It's said a picture is worth a thousand words. Sometime a picture explains everything and is a great tool to have available.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys. Just giving an update. It’s been almost 2 months now and I still haven’t gotten the block back due to everyone trying to work on their project cars. Still just waiting. 

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On 2/22/2021 at 12:50 PM, Figbuck said:

Did you get pistons? Is the machinist supplying you pistons, rings and bearings? 

Yea u got pistons. 280zx flat top 86mm. I got STD bearings and rings. 
is it bad to paint my engine Ford blue? I think the Pontiac blue I’ve seen is ugly. 

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Your truck just avoid purple it triggers some people.

Yea I ask because I want to take it to a Datsun meet in LB but don’t want to get clowned on for Ford blue and black valve cover. 

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I think the air filter is Pontiac block blue? Can't go wrong with black block.... goes with everything. Nissan also used a gold color on the block. Leave the head and valve cover as is but clean.

 

 

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It's my truck and I like blue. Duplicolor, don't put it on to thick. Goes good with Rusoleum satin Midnight Blue...

 

So you didn't have it bored? What did the machine shop do... or are supposed to be doing? 

DSCN2038.jpg

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21 hours ago, Figbuck said:

It's my truck and I like blue. Duplicolor, don't put it on to thick. Goes good with Rusoleum satin Midnight Blue...

 

So you didn't have it bored? What did the machine shop do... or are supposed to be doing? 

DSCN2038.jpg

That’s exactly how I want my engine to look. What primer did you use? They said they need to boil it still and whenever I call they said ooo we haven’t gotten it back yet and tell me it’ll be done that week. I’m gonna raise hell next week. And they still need to bore it and change the oil plugs for me. 

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I ain't that clever. Especially with the '73 model there is no radiator bump out. It's a tight fit, but I did it by myself. It was scary, no lie.

 

I didn't use a primer. I think it said two light costs our until you achive hide. But I did use PPG Metal Cleaner and neutralizing conditioners, after I prepped the block with abrasive wheels on a die grinder.

 

I think the trick is rigging the engine at 5%, so the transmission input shaft is parallel to the clutch. You should feel it hit the pilot bushing, then, stop when it hits the end of the crank. a little solid thunk. If your are fighting it... you are working too hard... it's not lining up. Once you get the dowels lined up and the bell house  snaps together... it's one of the best feelings...

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12 hours ago, Figbuck said:

I ain't that clever. Especially with the '73 model there is no radiator bump out. It's a tight fit, but I did it by myself. It was scary, no lie.

 

I didn't use a primer. I think it said two light costs our until you achive hide. But I did use PPG Metal Cleaner and neutralizing conditioners, after I prepped the block with abrasive wheels on a die grinder.

 

I think the trick is rigging the engine at 5%, so the transmission input shaft is parallel to the clutch. You should feel it hit the pilot bushing, then, stop when it hits the end of the crank. a little solid thunk. If your are fighting it... you are working too hard... it's not lining up. Once you get the dowels lined up and the bell house  snaps together... it's one of the best feelings...

Did you remove the steering link?

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Hell yes. Step one, procedure one; Measure the distance between the lock nuts and write it down. I think... refresh my memory, I just did this twice with my donor truck too; 15 5/16"??? 15 3/8"??  I found a OEM 620 jack in a dumpster years ago, I have two identical jacks behind my seat. I can put the front end in the air very quickly. Remember to have the truck where you need it to be, because when the link is gone it is a bitch to move. I think I had to put it back in once to move it!

 

 

DSCN2492.jpg

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