New at engine rebuild L16

[Crashtd420]

4 minutes ago, Richie said:

yea my mount is different. its the first mount in Mikes photos. 

 

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/ultima/charging---starting/alternator/f7cab2ae3cc0/ultima-70-amp-alternator-remanufactured/ost0/r111397a/v/a/6644/automotive-car-1985-nissan-300zx?q=alternator&pos=0

 

Someone told me this work fine too. It is the 300zx alternator. He said it is smaller. What do you guys think?

That looks like it would fit.... I'd try it...

I also thought there was a different water neck you could use with that mount to get some clearance too... 

[Richie]

3 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

That looks like it would fit.... I'd try it...

I also thought there was a different water neck you could use with that mount to get some clearance too... 

I just ordered it. And i just realized how many different options their are....

This one that i just ordered looks a little more difficult to wire then the first one. I need to figure out what the marks mean. 

[datzenmike]

It might. Back in the '90s??? alternators started being smaller.

[Richie]

6 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

It might. Back in the '90s??? alternators started being smaller.

so with this alternator, is it the same set up as wiring. Lamp, Signal, and Battery? 

[datzenmike]

1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

That looks like it would fit.... I'd try it...

I also thought there was a different water neck you could use with that mount to get some clearance too... 

 

Yeah from the Z car. It's bent back closer to the block than the L 4 cylinder ones. This moves the rad hose away from the alternator.

[datzenmike]

3 minutes ago, Richie said:

so with this alternator, is it the same set up as wiring. Lamp, Signal, and Battery? 

 

Yes and no. The plugs for all Nissans changed around '86.

 

 

What I did was his...

 

And this plugs into my engine harness.

[Richie]

12 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

Yes and no. The plugs for all Nissans changed around '86.

 

 

What I did was his...

 

And this plugs into my engine harness.

how did you do that? damn that is clean!

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Get a connector housing or pigtail from a wrecking yard or even Napa auto parts. You'd be surprised how much of that stuff is available new.

 

I just googled "1986 Nissan alternator pigtail" and found all of this - https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=1986+Nissan+alternator+pigtail

[420n620]

Just changed my 35 amp alternator over to a 60 amp in my 71 521 by buying a alternator for a 77 200sx from O Reilly's, alt # R111285A. This is a non regulator alternator.  The lower 521 / L16 alt mount is a 2 bolt and not a 3 bolts. Not sure what your 74 620 is using. I slotted / filed the mounting holes about 3/16" so it would move the lower alternator bracket back so the belt will line up with the other pulleys. Then I took a J engine upper alt bracket, opened the adjustment slot end, cut off the adjustment end ( not sure if 1" or 1 1/2" ) of the L16/18 upper bracket, welded it to the J bracket adjustment slotted end. This gives you the movement you'll need to keep the alternator from hitting the lower radiator inlet housing. Plus it allows to rest the alternator on the idler arm if I need to. Not sure if it's the same as for a 620. As for the belt, I ended up getting a masterPRO from  O Reilly's part number 7365. It placed the alternator in the middle between the engine and frame. By using this alternator, it was a plug and play. I'll post pic's later, hav to go get stuff done right now.

Edited August 14, 2021 by 420n620

[Richie]

https://imgur.com/a/bsTZQr8

 

ok a little more room. What do you guys think?

[Richie]

Also these are the three wires I have for the alternator 

red=alt power 

white=excitor 

black=alt battery 

 

some help on how to hook these wires to this alternator please 

[Crashtd420]

4 hours ago, Richie said:

Also these are the three wires I have for the alternator 

red=alt power 

white=excitor 

black=alt battery 

 

some help on how to hook these wires to this alternator please 

Blue is the sense/excitor wire...

Main 12v lug goes usually to the starter...

The other going to the plug can either be a jumper from the main 12v lug or ignition from the harness....

I'm not sure the difference between the red and black in your harness...

Largest gauge wire to the main lug..

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

I say run the stock one and be done with this.

 

this alt now you got to convert the Volt reg and now the T connecdtor. Simple in itsself.  just make jumpers so yu can go back to stock

 

I think you should on get it running first before upgrading to other stuff right now

[Crashtd420]

1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I say run the stock one and be done with this.

 

this alt now you got to convert the Volt reg and now the T connecdtor. Simple in itsself.  just make jumpers so yu can go back to stock

 

I think you should on get it running first before upgrading to other stuff right now

Dont think the wiring will be an issue, pretty sure hes using an aftermarket harness.....

Probably more work to make stock work.....

[Richie]

1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I say run the stock one and be done with this.

 

this alt now you got to convert the Volt reg and now the T connecdtor. Simple in itsself.  just make jumpers so yu can go back to stock

 

I think you should on get it running first before upgrading to other stuff right now

So this is why i am doing a different wiring harness. I could run the stock one as the harness has the option too. But originally the car started fine, but then something electrical happened and the car just sparked up and i got shocked touching the car. My first thought was ooo bad ground. I checked the grounds did all the cleaning and wired chased. Same thing happened again only this time it would start. I replaced the battery, the cables and still getting shocked touching the car. I grab a multi meter, called my mechanic over and my electrical engineer friends who works on AE86's and they got shocked. I got over it and just ripped all the wires out. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

I bet the coil insulation was weak and shoring out tho the chassis and that what you felt

If you get shocked just with key ON and  doing nothin then I dont have a clue.

 

I put my hands across a battery and I dont get shocked  so I can only think when your running the coil might be doing soemthing

[Figbuck]

I left my alt. off the engine, less stuff to get in the way when you drop it back in. How do you know where the radiator outlet is? You got no radiator yet. How do you know the pully/fan is in relation to to it?  I ran the bigger 65 amp alt. on my L16. It was a really tight fit. Barely daylight between the hose on top, and a half or five-eights of an inch, between the spinning fan/pulley, and the bend in the hose right where it connects to the radiator. I went through four belts to find the magic one that worked. It was Ratsun no doubt.

 

I did what Hainz said when I put the L20 in. I used the 35amp stock alt off the L16 until I got it in and a few bugs worked out. Then I stuck the bigger 65amp back in, because I got a new aluminum and plastic radiator... and moved it over as far as I could to help the situation. It was ok, but I need more power for trailer lights, so...

 

I found a place in Portland called Auto-Battery Electric. Ken, the guru at SE 15th X Hawthorne, built me a new 110 amp unit, using a small Delco housing, with the right pulley for $98. A new plug clip pigtail, was ten bucks.  They mounting ears are so close to matching the 35amp POS I have been running on an L20. The modifications I made, were to add a washer to the front bolt to shim it. I had to make some small bushings for both of the bottom ears so I could use the existing L20 alt. bracket. I think I could have drilled and tapped the front bolt, and drilled the rear hole for larger bolts, but I wanted to make it run. I didn't have time and wasn't where my tools are.

 

Then I replaced the idler arm with a $3.64 turnbuckle from ACE Hardware. I added a wing nut to lock one side of the threads. Simple to tweak the belt tension. Fuck me, how come I didn't ever do this before?
 
I already removed the external voltage regulator  a while ago, when I put in the 65 amp alt. It was not right for my application in a '73... no bump out for the radiator... so the pulley came too close to the bottom radiator hose. It was hard to get the right belt to fit a limited  adjustment range. It was better than an 35amp, but the 110amp makes it like shit actually works. Can have the lights, wipers, heater and stereo on, all together... towing a trailer with lights... and the turn signals work!
 
Wish I could tell you part or model numbers, It says Alt. on the receipt.  But It is easy to do, can be done. I wish I would have done it 30 years ago. or 40... or 45... 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 16, 2021 by Figbuck
indica x sativa

[Richie]

8 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

Dont think the wiring will be an issue, pretty sure hes using an aftermarket harness.....

Probably more work to make stock work.....

I know this is probably a dumb question, but i am still trying to learn wiring stuff. You know how the battery terminals have leads. Well on the negative battery terminal lead could i connect that to the E on the alternator because the batter terminal is grounded to the engine?

[datzenmike]

The negative battery cable must remain bolted to the head where it is. You could run a ground wire from the ground lug on the alternator to the same bolt if you wanted to. But there already is a black ground wire on the engine harness made just for the alternator. Use it.

[datzenmike]

On 8/13/2021 at 5:42 PM, Crashtd420 said:

That looks like it would fit.... I'd try it...

I also thought there was a different water neck you could use with that mount to get some clearance too... 

 

 

 

Here is the difference between 4 and 6 cylinder lower rad to inlet to the water pump. The 280z swings the lower radiator hose closer to the block and leaves more room for a larger diameter alternator in the 521 and 620. Some 280z or zx may not have the small by pass hose connection

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

It is a good idea to have a battery cable grounding the engine to the frame, the frame to the body and the battery to both the frame and engine. A smaller gauge wire, like 10ga, can be used to ground the battery to the body. Heck, I even run a ground wire from the body to the radiator, just to keep electrolysis to a minimum.

 

Also, IIRC, the 280ZX water inlet is virtually identical to the 510 outlet, but has the threaded connection, which can accept a regular hose nipple or be plugged.

[datzenmike]

The 280z uses a casting with integral by pass return fitting but the heater return is a threaded fitting. This cast inlet, 13049-U0100/Y4000, was used on 280z and 280zx. For '83 it was different. Perhaps this is when the heater and the bypass were combined on the same fitting???

 

The L16/18 inlet is 13049-V0100 very similar to the U0100 which is also used on all L20Bs.

 

One things for sure one, either the 280z or the zx had the swept back inlet. I put one of the swept back inlets on my 620 and later gave the engine away. This one I don't remember where I got it.

[Richie]

So I got the alternator in and plugged up. It’s ready 11.9 volts right now connected to the battery. The hoses and everything clears fine. 
 

now I should’ve listened to you guys when it came to the oil pressure sending unit. I Know it 1/8bsp but I bought two 1/8 bps adapters to 1/8npt female and it still will not fit, twice. Any links to adapters or am I getting the thread pitch wrong. I read previous forums and they all say 1/8 bsp. Thank you. 

[datzenmike]

ALL Nissan/Datsun oil pressure senders are 1/8 BSP(T).  British Standard Pipe Taper. Get a Nissan sender and it fits.

 

If running a North American gauge you need this adapter to NPT threads...

 

[Crashtd420]

10 hours ago, Richie said:

So I got the alternator in and plugged up. It’s ready 11.9 volts right now connected to the battery. The hoses and everything clears fine. 
 

now I should’ve listened to you guys when it came to the oil pressure sending unit. I Know it 1/8bsp but I bought two 1/8 bps adapters to 1/8npt female and it still will not fit, twice. Any links to adapters or am I getting the thread pitch wrong. I read previous forums and they all say 1/8 bsp. Thank you. 

I know someone else had an issue like that where the person retapped the hole for a AN fitting....

Do you have the old sender or fitting that was originally in the hole?