New at engine rebuild L16

[Crashtd420]

The only thing I could remotely find about clearance was if the bore exceed .635 you need to replace the pilot bushing..... 

Are you sure it's the pilot bushing holding you up?

I just installed my transmission the other day, there is a pin at the top that gave me issues.... the engine plate would slip off as I was wiggling the transmission and block that pin from seating in the transmission...

[Richie]

6 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

The only thing I could remotely find about clearance was if the bore exceed .635 you need to replace the pilot bushing..... 

Are you sure it's the pilot bushing holding you up?

I just installed my transmission the other day, there is a pin at the top that gave me issues.... the engine plate would slip off as I was wiggling the transmission and block that pin from seating in the transmission...

I’m sure it is the pilot bushing because even the alignment tool has to be forced in. It didn’t before when I installed the bushing.  

Edited July 30, 2021 by Richie

[datzenmike]

Pull it out and replace it with a new one. There's way too many ways to fuck this up and only one to get it right. They are only $4 but you have to take the transmission out to fix it later.

[Crashtd420]

7 hours ago, Richie said:

I’m sure it is the pilot bushing because even the alignment tool has to be forced in. It didn’t before when I installed the bushing.  

My guess is the end is getting mushroomed slightly.....

Try a new one.....

Check it against the clutch tool and transmission first.....

 

What are you using to drive it in?

 

As Mike said I'd use something soft like wood.....

 

 

[datzenmike]

Is all of the old one out? Hole clean?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

My guess is that there was a burr in the crank from removing the old one that caused the new one to get boogered up. I would remove the new one and check the crank, smooth it out and install a new one.

 

If you don't want to do that, get a cartridge roll on a die grinder and open that bushing up. Something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Cartridge-341D-Straight-Diameter-Length/dp/B005LIQJLA

 

It goes on a metal arbor  - https://www.grainger.com/product/39AL61  -  that you use on a die grinder, but even a drill would work.

[datzenmike]

Replace it. If this was a radiator cap I would say try this, try that, but this is impossible to get at later if it doesn't work or fails totally in a month. It's a $4 part !!!!!

[Richie]

On 7/29/2021 at 9:03 PM, datzenmike said:

Pull it out and replace it with a new one. There's way too many ways to fuck this up and only one to get it right. They are only $4 but you have to take the transmission out to fix it later.

Damn I just put this new one in 🙃. I knew something was up with this clutch kit once I saw the throw bearing was smaller than the OEM

[Richie]

17 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

My guess is the end is getting mushroomed slightly.....

Try a new one.....

Check it against the clutch tool and transmission first.....

 

What are you using to drive it in?

 

As Mike said I'd use something soft like wood.....

 

 

Well the book said to use a socket or the actual tool to put it in. I barely tapped it in because that was going on in my head the fact that it might mushroom up. 

[Richie]

15 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Is all of the old one out? Hole clean?

Yea it is. 

[datzenmike]

Was the pilot bushing part of a clutch kit???? Better get one from Nissan

[Richie]

11 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Was the pilot bushing part of a clutch kit???? Better get one from Nissan

Yea it was. Nissan would have a clutch kit for it from 1974?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

No, he's saying get the bushing from Nissan.

 

I don't really agree. Just get another one and check the fit on the transmission before you install it.

 

In all the years I've been doing this, I've never had that problem, so drastic measures are not needed here.

[Richie]

2 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

No, he's saying get the bushing from Nissan.

 

I don't really agree. Just get another one and check the fit on the transmission before you install it.

 

In all the years I've been doing this, I've never had that problem, so drastic measures are not needed here.

So I called and they don’t have the OEM production anymore for L18. They have 79-90 but it’s for the Z engines none are L18. 
 

The bushing fit fine on the transmission shaft before I put it in. I really think after looking up things and talking to you guy, drilling it just a little bit will get it to go in.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I wouldn't drill it, but I would sand or file it. Maybe use a smaller drill bit as a sort of grinder to get it smooth and round. It does have to be centered, but there is some room for error.

 

BTW- all pilot bushing from L13 to Z24 (and I think even KA24E) are the same.

[Richie]

6 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I wouldn't drill it, but I would sand or file it. Maybe use a smaller drill bit as a sort of grinder to get it smooth and round. It does have to be centered, but there is some room for error.

 

BTW- all pilot bushing from L13 to Z24 (and I think even KA24E) are the same.

Yea that might be a better idea just to take little by little. I’ll send some pics of what I am using and doing. Thanks

[datzenmike]

4 hours ago, Richie said:

So I called and they don’t have the OEM production anymore for L18. They have 79-90 but it’s for the Z engines none are L18. 
 

The bushing fit fine on the transmission shaft before I put it in. I really think after looking up things and talking to you guy, drilling it just a little bit will get it to go in.

 

They are idiots. If they would check the old part number supersedes to B9500

 

32202-B3000 used on ALL L series engines. It's in the Roadster, Z car, J13  520, 

32202-B9500 used on '80 and up 720 including the L20B so the SAME!!! I had a Z24 pilot from Nissan dealer in my 620 truck. I spent over an hour with the parts guy in town at the Nissan dealership before they moved and got lazy. We cross referenced numbers and I took it home and fit pefectly.

 

The pilot was used on EVERYTHING Nissan made. (well not the A series or the Patrol) My info only goes to 2004 but the same pilot bushing is in the 2004 350z!!!!!

[Richie]

23 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

They are idiots. If they would check the old part number supersedes to B9500

 

32202-B3000 used on ALL L series engines. It's in the Roadster, Z car, J13  520, 

32202-B9500 used on '80 and up 720 including the L20B so the SAME!!! I had a Z24 pilot from Nissan dealer in my 620 truck. I spent over an hour with the parts guy in town at the Nissan dealership before they moved and got lazy. We cross referenced numbers and I took it home and fit pefectly.

 

The pilot was used on EVERYTHING Nissan made. (well not the A series or the Patrol) My info only goes to 2004 but the same pilot bushing is in the 2004 350z!!!!!

Yea I was on the phone with him 10 minutes explaining a pilot bushing and that’s when I knew they “don’t have it”. 

[datzenmike]

YOU know more than they do. They have them. Tell him you want one for a 350z and give the 32202-B9500 number before he asks for the VIN. You only need grade 9 to be a parts manager. Try parts on line. Or NAPA I know they are good.

 

The reason I asked if the pilot came with the clutch kit is they are thrown in as an after thought. Who knows where in China they are made or the quality.

[Figbuck]

On 6/22/2021 at 5:31 PM, Figbuck said:

The only place I could find to swap my blowed up L16, was in a wood shed on my friend's farm. It was a ten minute trip into the little farm town. There were three auto parts places, Napa, O'Reileys and Auto Zone. The Napa was the closest, so I got pretty much everything I needed, the next day out of Portland NW warehouse. All my FelPro gasket kits, Standard rings, bearings, timing kits, and misc. supplies and crap like fan belts, plugs, filters, heater hose, rad hose, fuel hose. Parts all seemed like good quality parts. The timing chain, didn't have colored side plates or dimples, but good quality stuff.

 

Napa had two clutch kits, the heavy duty one was twenty bucks more. It did look heavy duty, compared to the clutch I put in the L16 30 years ago. Looked like it came out of a matchbox toy. The throw out bearing was a joke. I got my moneys worth outta that sucker, towing overloaded trailers!!!  hahaha!  Clutch was an RCH from burning through to the rivets, so fuckin' toasted. I took the L20 flywheel to the Napa Machine shop to get it resurfaced. It definately got a little hot, there was some crazed checking, but like a normal for 80K, that was on it. nowhere near as roached as the L16!! It think it was $45...  I ate tacos and woofed a bowl, while they machined it.  $200 for a clutch, got to pimp the fly wheel too.

 

Make sure the Pilot bushing is in the Clutch Kit. Mine was shipped from Excramento, all wrapped up in plastic film wrap. When I opened it... the box had been opened, the sealed bag with the TO bearing was ripped... just enought to pilfer the Pilot bushing. Ahhhhh! Fortunately when I got the flywheel surfaced, they had one in stock for four bucks or something. Remember to soak the bushing in oil for 15 minutes before you tap it in there.

 

Did you ever find a copy of Colin Messer's; How to Keep your Nissan/Datsun alive? 

 

[Richie]

Went in perfectly. Slipped right in and the clutch tool fit waaaay better this time. it’s going in tomorrow! 
 

https://imgur.com/a/7VMItx4

 

Some help i am going to need for fluids: It is a 4 speed transmission 

 

1. Gear oil type and capacity 

2. Oil type for a rebuilt engine L18 and capacity

3. Coolant and capacity

4. Brake and clutch fluid type

 

Thank you

 

 

Edited August 7, 2021 by Richie

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Gear oil - I use Redline MT90 for transmissions, but others here have success with other brands. For differentials, any old gear oil will work, unless you have a limited slip, which you don't.

 

Newly rebuilt engine oil - again, any old oil will work for break in, as long as you use a break in additive like Lucas 10063. Change the oil after 500 to 1000 miles.

 

Coolant - green, red, doesn't really matter. Use 50/50 mix. Redline water wetter is the best for keeping temps down, but it is not anti freeze, so don't use it where it freezes.

 

Brake fluid - DOT4, not silicone. There are recent improvements to DOT5 silicone fluid, but DOT4 will do everything you need it to. If you get any on paint while you're filling or bleeding, be sure to rinse it off with water right away.

 

[datzenmike]

19 hours ago, Richie said:

 

Some help i am going to need for fluids: It is a 4 speed transmission 

 

1. Gear oil type and capacity 

2. Oil type for a rebuilt engine L18 and capacity

3. Coolant and capacity

4. Brake and clutch fluid type

 

Thank you

 

 

 

 

1/  2 liters GL-4 it's critical that it be copper/brass 'yellow metal' compatible, GL-5 is NOT! 90w you can try a synthetic but I find on old Datsun transmissions, and all Datsun transmissions are old, it tends to form leaks. A new output seal usually fixes this. Not always. Never over fill. When you can't get more in the fill hole.... it's full. Excess oil will just get foamy and go out the plastic breather, and bubbles do not lubricate

 

2/ Anything BUT a synthetic is fine as you want some wear, as long as you change it within a thousand miles or so. Drive it at varying speeds and loads, don't drone on at a steady speed. Change to an oil high in zinc anti scuff ZDDP such as a diesel oil (there are other brands) Don't run conventional gasoline engine oils as the ZDDP levels are half what they used to be. I suggest Shell Rotella T4 10w30 or 15w40. Always change the filter too. Fill till the dip stick reads full about 4.5 liters. Half fill the oil filter before spinning on and wet the rubber gasket. Check after running, top up as needed. If a total rebuild with new gaskets and seals you can switch to a synthetic after break in if you want, but waste of money unless running some kind of power adder.

 

3/ Fill the rad till full but leave 3/4" for expansion*. An L18 with heater is just about 1.5 US gallons if calculating the amount of anti freeze to add. Once thermostat opens any air that might have been caught will escape into the top tank of the rad. It's absolutely impossible for air to be trapped in the engine. Check and top up as needed.

 

* Over filling will just cause the rad to expel any excess coolant. Get a coolant recovery container and special rad cap and every time the engine cools any saved coolant will siphon back into the rad.

 

4/  The 620 was built for use with DOT 3 but DOT 4 is totally compatible and a nice upgrade. Other than DOT 5 (NO NOT USE!) brake fluid absorbs water which has a lower boiling point so it should be replaced every 30k or 24 months. 

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

 

 

2/ Anything BUT a synthetic is fine as you want some wear, as long as you change it within a thousand miles or so. Drive it at varying speeds and loads, don't drone on at a steady speed. Change to an oil high in zinc anti scuff ZDDP such as a diesel oil (there are other brands) Don't run conventional gasoline engine oils as the ZDDP levels are half what they used to be. I suggest Shell Rotella T4 10w30 or 15w40.

 

 

Lucas additive is ZDDP, but I can't remember the price per bottle. You only use half a bottle per oil change, so it may work out to be more cost effective to use regular oil (Castrol 10W30 for instance) and the Lucas additive.

[Richie]

https://imgur.com/a/P0MMfau
 

finally. Now I have to find bolts. Thanks for all the help and the fluids help!