New at engine rebuild L16

[banzai510(hainz)]

6 minutes ago, Richie said:

I might as well do work on the clutch again.

Why?

 

if you used the tool your fine just rotate the crank pully to move it andsplines can line up then push in!!!
 

[Richie]

Ok so im Looking at the engine right now. I believe the clutch is not aligned at all. Ok I’ll buy a new clutch kit with the tool. On rock auto they have two available. LUK clutch and AMS clutch. I can’t tell if the pressure plate Is correct and really don’t want to buy the wrong one. Any help with these two brands or preferences would be cool. Thank you. 
 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1974,620+pickup,1.8l+l4,1210105,transmission-manual,clutch+kit,1993

[Richie]

40 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Why?

 

if you used the tool your fine just rotate the crank pully to move it andsplines can line up then push in!!!
 

I did use the tool but it’s slipping still. I had to have done something completely wrong. 

[Figbuck]

Did you have the flywheel surfaced? I'm missing something here.

 

Here are a couple L20 oics; Notice the Figbuck Racing factory tool, used to hold the crank while you torque the flywheel bolts. I made it from an 1/8' aluminum shelf bracket.  I had to spin the engine as I dropped into the compartment. I had the water pump on it... no rad support bump-out on '73 620s. either. Like Hainz said; put a 2x4 on a jack so you can dial the height and angle of the transmission. Richie, I got to the point where you are... almost in... but couldn't get the right leverage or 'English" on it. I also rigged a second rope on a come-a-long, to a motor mount... to precisely conrol the clocking of engine.  I got so frustrated that I was trying to grab the engine and cowboy it home! That only reminded me how I fucked my back up in the first place, doing stupid shit like that. In the last oic, you can see my Figbuck Racing Development, L20 alignment tool. It came from a 300 year old, white oak tree on the farm. It worked great... didn't mar the paint either!!! hahaha  A little wiggle and jiggle... popped that sukka right in there! It landed with a solid thunk. It goes in really easy if it's lined up... you know it ain't lined up yet... or it would be in already.

 

 

[Richie]

13 hours ago, Figbuck said:

Did you have the flywheel surfaced? I'm missing something here.

 

Here are a couple L20 oics; Notice the Figbuck Racing factory tool, used to hold the crank while you torque the flywheel bolts. I made it from an 1/8' aluminum shelf bracket.  I had to spin the engine as I dropped into the compartment. I had the water pump on it... no rad support bump-out on '73 620s. either. Like Hainz said; put a 2x4 on a jack so you can dial the height and angle of the transmission. Richie, I got to the point where you are... almost in... but couldn't get the right leverage or 'English" on it. I also rigged a second rope on a come-a-long, to a motor mount... to precisely conrol the clocking of engine.  I got so frustrated that I was trying to grab the engine and cowboy it home! That only reminded me how I fucked my back up in the first place, doing stupid shit like that. In the last oic, you can see my Figbuck Racing Development, L20 alignment tool. It came from a 300 year old, white oak tree on the farm. It worked great... didn't mar the paint either!!! hahaha  A little wiggle and jiggle... popped that sukka right in there! It landed with a solid thunk. It goes in really easy if it's lined up... you know it ain't lined up yet... or it would be in already.

 

 

So i decided to not get a new clutch kit. And i aligned the clutch the 70's way with my gf dad. That old man wisdom. When we put the engine in, it would slide on the shaft but then stop. So I believe the clutch is not not aligned for that reason. I took the engine out for the second time. Placed in on the tired and noticed the outer wall in the crank was getting a little beaten up, it looks like the shaft slides on the clutch but hits the crank on the inside. So now I am trying to find a clutch kit on rockauto. This is where i am at currently. 

 

The way your engine is going in is so clean. I am just using a cherry picker and a graded strap. I jacked the car up so i can wiggle the the tranny around underneath, that covid weight made it hard to slide under the car now. I also have the engine mounts on the offset the leaning of the engine. How did you hook your chains to your engine block? the rope i am using it ruining the paint job on the oil. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

I use the hole by the fuel pump on the head   Bolt and Big Washer then on rear exhaust stud by firewall.  use washer also  when using engine hoist

[Richie]

30 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I use the hole by the fuel pump on the head   Bolt and Big Washer then on rear exhaust stud by firewall.  use washer also  when using engine hoist

That would work a lot better then my idea because it keep the rope out of the way and keeps it stable. I would also no have the tension on the engine mounts. Thank you

[datzenmike]

2 hours ago, Richie said:

  And i aligned the clutch the 70's way with my gf dad. That old man wisdom. When we put the engine in, it would slide on the shaft but then stop. So I believe the clutch is not not aligned for that reason. I took the engine out for the second time. Placed in on the tired and noticed the outer wall in the crank was getting a little beaten up, it looks like the shaft slides on the clutch but hits the crank on the inside. So now I am trying to find a clutch kit on rockauto. This is where i am at currently. 

 

 

 

If the clutch worked before it will work now. If you get a new one get the alignment tool and forget the 'old man wisdom.' Did you replace the pilot bushing that the nose of the transmission slide into. Might be a good idea as it's apart.

[Richie]

45 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

If the clutch worked before it will work now. If you get a new one get the alignment tool and forget the 'old man wisdom.' Did you replace the pilot bushing that the nose of the transmission slide into. Might be a good idea as it's apart.

Nah i didnt replace the bushing. Where can i just get the tool?

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

in the photo of the rockauto kits looks like the tool is in the kit.

the too is a replica if the trans input shaft. the circle part is just to put your finger thru to pull it out, sometime they break off  Old school guys use a long socket to line it up. I cant tell what you used on yours with the vice grips

Edited July 1, 2021 by banzai510(hainz)

[datzenmike]

Some come with the clutch kit.

 

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-17525-14501.aspx

 

Summit as them too probably Amazon

 

[Richie]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

 

If the clutch worked before it will work now. If you get a new one get the alignment tool and forget the 'old man wisdom.' Did you replace the pilot bushing that the nose of the transmission slide into. Might be a good idea as it's apart.

nvm i found it on rockauto. yea I guess i could just buy the tool, but rockauto has a AMS clutch kit with all the stuff for $95, i am just nervous about the pressure plate fitting because it is missing a couple holes. But it has made in japan on it which is a plus because all these american made part dont fit correctly. I just never head of AMS but the reviews say its decent.

Edited July 1, 2021 by Richie

[banzai510(hainz)]

make sure to jam that fucker in there so you know its lined up

[Richie]

2 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

make sure to jam that fucker in there so you know its lined up

FORSURE. to change the Throw bearing i am going to need a press huh?

 

[Richie]

4 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

If the clutch worked before it will work now. If you get a new one get the alignment tool and forget the 'old man wisdom.' Did you replace the pilot bushing that the nose of the transmission slide into. Might be a good idea as it's apart.

So in the book the pilot bushing was in limits. If i get a clutch i guess i might as well change it if it comes in a kit. I saw this youtube video on how to get it out with the clutch tool and grease. is this something that could work and not break anything? or would i need to get some sort of tool? thank you

 

[datzenmike]

Who still does that???? Too messy. Use soft gooey white bread. In both cases you need something small enough to fit the hole snugly. Good luck with that.

 

 

I just use a hammer and screwdriver. Slit lengthwise in 3 places and fish out the pieces.

 

The bushing is bronze powder shaped in a high pressure press, heated to fuse the granules together but remain porous and soaked in oil to permanently lubricate. They are very soft.   

 

 

[Figbuck]

It's still not too late to find a copy of How to keep your Nissan/Datsun alive. Every single thing you are having problems with, and every "Stupid" problem... meaning ignorant of the trade or craft, not a dummy... is addressed with clear graphic illustrations. Colin Messer said; Bust off a hack saw blade, so you have teeth at the end to cut flush. Stick it inside the pilot bushing and cut through. Then take a little chisel or beater screwdriver to collapse it into the center. Same as Mike's oics. Or you can do it Figbuck Style... Sawzall with Lenox Hack master fine tooth metal blade... Sawzall... that's all!  Soak the bushing and tap it in with a deep socket.

 

Whenever I spied one of the engine hooks at a Pick 'n Pull, I grabbed them. My L16 came with one bolted to the block. I realized there are a left and a right hand hooks... and one style that is bent 90 degrees where the bolt hole is. I don't remember what engine it came off... never seen another one. It came in handy for rigging the chains up. I used a couple carabiners to take up slack in the chains, foam shit to keep the chains from chafing my polished Valve cover. hahah shit.

 

Last oic: Harbor Freight gear puller kit... three different sizes... sixteen or eighteen bucks. Worked great to take the old throw-out bearing off. Worked even better when I tapped the new one on backwards!!! AHHHH! I didn't have to set it up... came right off. I think that's a 30mm socket sitting there, and my vintage Klein hammer! Used it to pull the timing gear of the front of the crank snout... worth the money right there.

 

 

Edited July 3, 2021 by Figbuck

[jagman]

I used Silly Putty and a 5/8" dowel to remove the bushing.  Clean and neat.  If you purchased a bushing as part of a kit you may have to ream it to proper size after install.  

Edited July 2, 2021 by jagman
add

[datzenmike]

I have never seen this happen. Test fit it on the transmission, you'll see it fits just fine. Hammer it in with a block of wood covering it. Direct hammer blows might certainly deform it.

 

All the methods listed require too many specific things to work and can be messy. Hammer and screwdriver are universally available and faster.

[Richie]

https://imgur.com/a/f6iPk1E
 

anyone have any idea which way this bearing is supposed to installed? Also the oem Japanese one is bigger than the new one Chinese one I got from rock auto. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The bulge usually goes towards the clutch cover.

 

Make sure you have the right length collar.

[Richie]

Anyone selling a new L18 crank? This one is giving me a rough time since 8am this morning. I did the bread trick, the grease trick, can’t find a pulling in the correct size trick and I chiseled and flat head tricked it. The crank is most likely ruined now. 
 

https://imgur.com/a/NVp44nJ

[datzenmike]

No, a scratch where the pilot bushing goes will only hold it more secure.  It's fine.

[Richie]

1 minute ago, datzenmike said:

No, a scratch where the pilot bushing goes will only hold it more secure.  It's fine.

I’m so heated. This (I’d if I can cuss here) MF won’t move at all. 

[datzenmike]

Exactly what, won't move?