Richie Posted June 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 Thanks for the information. I am just going to use the old one to start her up and see if she doesnt explode on me. tomorrow i am dropping her in. Is there anything i should do before i install it in the car? Do i have to remove the cross member to drop it in? Quote Link to comment
Figbuck Posted June 23, 2021 Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 (edited) No, I don't see why. The steering link is in the way. this time I remembered to measure the distance between the lock nuts and write it down. The only place I could find to swap my blowed up L16, was in a wood shed on my friend's farm. It was a ten minute trip into the little farm town. There were three auto parts places, Napa, O'Reileys and Auto Zone. The Napa was the closest, so I got pretty much everything I needed, the next day out of Portland NW warehouse. All my FelPro gasket kits, Standard rings, bearings, timing kits, and misc. supplies and crap like fan belts, plugs, filters, heater hose, rad hose, fuel hose. Parts all seemed like good quality parts. The timing chain, didn't have colored side plates or dimples, but good quality stuff. Napa had two clutch kits, the heavy duty one was twenty bucks more. It did look heavy duty, compared to the clutch I put in the L16 30 years ago. Looked like it came out of a matchbox toy. The throw out bearing was a joke. I got my moneys worth outta that sucker, towing overloaded trailers!!! hahaha! Clutch was an RCH from burning through to the rivets, so fuckin' toasted. I took the L20 flywheel to the Napa Machine shop to get it resurfaced. It definately got a little hot, there was some crazed checking, but like a normal for 80K, that was on it. nowhere near as roached as the L16!! It think it was $45... I ate tacos and woofed a bowl, while they machined it. $200 for a clutch, got to pimp the fly wheel too. It runs so nice. Finally got the Weber to behave. Starts cold and hot, first crank. Idles at 800. New clutch is a good as a new windshield!!! Can ease the clutch out on a steep hill and not let it slip to go. There were some 620 parts that Napa didn't have, or they were not great aftermarket parts. I got a lot of stuff from O'reiley like a new brake booster, oil pressure sender... waaay better... I took the Napa parts back. Make sure the Pilot bushing is in the Clutch Kit. Mine was shipped from Excramento, all wrapped up in plastic film wrap. When I opened it... the box had been opened, the sealed bag with the TO bearing was ripped... just enought to pilfer the Pilot bushing. Ahhhhh! Fortunately when I got the flywheel surfaced, they had one in stock for four bucks or something. Remember to soak the bushing in oil for 15 minutes before you tap it in there. Did you ever find a copy of Colin Messer's; How to Keep your Nissan/Datsun alive? I'm going to Laguna Seca for the SuperBike weekend, then I'm going to start rebuilding the L16. It's still on a stand in wood shed... saying; Rebuild me.... Edited June 23, 2021 by Figbuck 3 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 23, 2021 Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 (edited) 15 hours ago, Richie said: Do i have to remove the cross member to drop it in? why would you have to do that? how it come out? I would have gotton a new clutch kit for that year vehicle while you had it open. least replace the T/O bearing Edited June 23, 2021 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted June 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 I’m cutting the damn tie rod. The engine won’t go in with the cross memeber tie rod and I tried everything to get it off. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 23, 2021 Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 NOOOOOOO. First of all it WILL go in. Thousands have been swapped and no one ever cut anything. You mean the steering cross rod on the front? Loosen the nut on either end and turn, rotate the cross rod and the ends unscrew and the cross rod lifts out. The cross member supporting the LCA and the torsion bars also unbolts and can be dropped to clear the oil pan. Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted June 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 7 minutes ago, datzenmike said: NOOOOOOO. First of all it WILL go in. Thousands have been swapped and no one ever cut anything. You mean the steering cross rod on the front? Loosen the nut on either end and turn, rotate the cross rod and the ends unscrew and the cross rod lifts out. The cross member supporting the LCA and the torsion bars also unbolts and can be dropped to clear the oil pan. Yea the steering cross bar. I unbolted the nuts already and it won’t pop up out of the housing. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 23, 2021 Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 The nuts only need to be loosened, then the cross bar can be turned. The two ends have L&R threads so turning in one direction (I forget which) will unscrew them both and the threaded cross rod lifts away. There is no 'housing'. 1 Quote Link to comment
Figbuck Posted June 23, 2021 Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 (edited) Did you jack the front wheels off the ground? Yeah, loosen the jam nuts. Then grab the tie-rod with a big vice-grip. It should push the wheels out. One side is regular threads, the other side reverse threaded. I grabbed the tie-rod on the passenger side, just where the threads stop. Might have to reposition the Vice-Grip. If you take the cross-member out while the tie-rod is off, it will be a lot of work getting it back in. I should remember which way to spin it. I did it on my donor truck as well as my truck. It's kind of counter intuitive. See if you can take your fingernail to see which side is regular thread, so you are cranking counter clock wise as you pull it out. Right? If you look at the reverse thread side, you will be all backwards messed up! Here I am all cleaned up, ready to go. The tie rod is just two turns in to hold it for the oic... Edited June 23, 2021 by Figbuck 1 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted June 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 I got frustrated and had to go to work so I’ll try again next week. Thanks for the information I really wish I would’ve mentioned it too you guys earlier 🙃. Spent all day in the sun trying to get it in. Do I need to push the tranny back or anything? https://imgur.com/a/fVxGbqZ here are picture just in case. One nut was loose then other on the driver side is not. Quote Link to comment
Figbuck Posted June 23, 2021 Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 (edited) Jack it up, loosen both jam nuts, so they are back where the threads stop. Like in the second oic. Squrt PB Blaster or some lube shit, into the drivers side to work that jam nut back. Then see if the rod is loose enough to use a small vice-grip... so you don't have to reposition it as it un-threads. My donor truck was already greasy and spund right out, my truck was pretty rusty frozen... I needed the leverage of a big Vice-Grip to spin it. haha You know what this reminds me of? Work... just like it. Low paying work too. I keep fucking shit up until I get it right. All Tranny pushing advice queries should be directed to Mike... Edited June 24, 2021 by Figbuck 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 I’ll try again tomorrow just to get the tie rod loose. I didn’t know that they spin different ways but that makes sense. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 Turning the cross link unscrews the ends. 1 Quote Link to comment
620slodat Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 I don't know if it has been said previously, but count the number of turns to get the rod out of the ends. When putting the rod back use that count to get the tires back where they should be. Depends on how close you count, but the tires should be close to being the correct toe in. I helped figbuck take the motor out of his donor truck. That was the first time I saw that center rod thing being done, but I knew immediately what he was doing. Don 1 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 20 minutes ago, 620slodat said: I don't know if it has been said previously, but count the number of turns to get the rod out of the ends. When putting the rod back use that count to get the tires back where they should be. Depends on how close you count, but the tires should be close to being the correct toe in. I helped figbuck take the motor out of his donor truck. That was the first time I saw that center rod thing being done, but I knew immediately what he was doing. Don Yea I am just going to buy a new rod after this. It took a nice beating today. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 YOu go tthe same oil pan back on this right? that was orginal to the vehicle? I jack up the trans with a 2x4 and jack lift up high as you can then instll the engine hopeylly with the tilt adapter to till it in. I have the engine mounts real loose of off depending on how it goes. I also have the water pump off to give soem extra clearance from the core support to help wiggle it in to the trans then should clear the oil pan if you used the orginal one for you 620. 1 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted June 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2021 9 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: YOu go tthe same oil pan back on this right? that was orginal to the vehicle? I jack up the trans with a 2x4 and jack lift up high as you can then instll the engine hopeylly with the tilt adapter to till it in. I have the engine mounts real loose of off depending on how it goes. I also have the water pump off to give soem extra clearance from the core support to help wiggle it in to the trans then should clear the oil pan if you used the orginal one for you 620. Yea original pan. I’m going to just take the tie rod off. I messed up the paint job on the pan already. And I don’t want to risk messing up the pan. I’m a noob at this. It’s like Murphy’s law over here. 1 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted June 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 Ok so I got the tie rod out. Jack the front of the car up already so the hoist fits. But the engine doesn’t want to mate with the transmission. Any tips or ideas? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 Engine and transmission should be on the same axis or alignment. Is the pressure plate an exact replacement? Did it come with a release bearing collar? What did you use to align the clutch disc before tightening the pressure plate down? If the disc is off center the nose end of the input shaft on the transmission will thread through the clutch disc but not line up with the pilot bushing. Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted June 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 4 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Engine and transmission should be on the same axis or alignment. Is the pressure plate an exact replacement? Did it come with a release bearing collar? What did you use to align the clutch disc before tightening the pressure plate down? If the disc is off center the nose end of the input shaft on the transmission will thread through the clutch disc but not line up with the pilot bushing. Well the shaft and everything goes in. But the engine originally sits offset a little and I can’t get the bolts on the transfer case to the block to line up. Do you guys have the engine mounts on while your dropping the engine in? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 Is the transmission in the truck? Try taking the shifter out and loosening the transmission mount bolts so you can twist it to match the bolt holes on the engine. 1 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted June 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 1 minute ago, datzenmike said: Is the transmission in the truck? Try taking the shifter out and loosening the transmission mount bolts so you can twist it to match the bolt holes on the engine. Yea the transmission is in the truck. Cool I’ll try that. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 If the transmission is into the pilot bearing in the crankshaft, it just needs to rotate L or R to align the bolts to the holes. 1 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted June 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 https://imgur.com/a/tMoS4NI this is where I’m at now Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 (edited) what transmission is that? thats the stock 4 speed for sure as I dont know what that hole in the upper right is for. your close take the crank pully and turn is slightly left or right to align the splines on the clutch disk to line up with the shaft spline. push and it will slip in more. then run a bolt or 2 in and then one can use the engine hoise to lift up /down and get the motor mounts on. I usually have them pretty loose incase they bind up doing what your doing lining up the trans. we are going to assume your kit had a clutch tool as Mike Posted to line up the disk before bolting the pressure plate down and pull it OUT!!!!once lined up Edited June 30, 2021 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted June 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 I’m just going to try again another day. Nothing was working and I might as well do work on the clutch again. Thanks for the help but this shit is annoying Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.