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New at engine rebuild L16


Richie

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6 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

If the seals are not down to the bottom, how do you know it will seal and not leak????? This is not a loose fan belt that can be easily tightened later. If this doesn't seal it will seep oil all over the flywheel and it's a bitch to get at. 

 

Take the main cap off and clean all the RTV goo off of it. Get a new set of side seals and measure how far down it goes to hit the bottom and how much it sticks out, if it does stick out. Put a small dab of RTV down at the block/main cap joint and oil the side seal and push it in. If you can't get it in all the way to the RTV it won't seal.

Yea i bought new seals and just got them today, the picture i sent is the new seals. Ill redo it again.

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14 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

It's for the best.

so the book, the how to rebuild your datsun engine with Tom, is really unclear on this step, because the pictures he doesnt have them going in all the way flush. what is the best way to install these seals? should i press the seals in the grooves after the RTV and then press the metal in?

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SMALL dab in both sides at the bottom. Push seals ALL the way in. Measure first so you know when they are seated. Then push the metal strips in beside them on the main cap side. Trim any excess rubber above block so pan gasket sits flat.

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

SMALL dab in both sides at the bottom. Push seals ALL the way in. Measure first so you know when they are seated. Then push the metal strips in beside them on the main cap side. Trim any excess rubber above block so pan gasket sits flat.

Alright how is this looking? Also the seals I ordered on zcardepot have a pin in them already but I used the removable one also. Is that a problem? You can see two metal pins in one of the pictures. 
 

https://imgur.com/a/zQgePFa

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3 hours ago, Richie said:

Is the main seal better? I pushed it back as far and the cap is sitting a little different now. 

Looks good to me!

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3 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Now before you install the pan, if you're using a gasket, put a dab of RTV on the seam where the main cap meets the block (both sides) and also where the front cover meets the block.

If I am using an oil pan gasket? for the front cover i used the grey permatex sealer and sealed the bottom where the block meets the front cover. I didnt use RTV for the front cover.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=asc_df_B000HBGI8K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312097317052&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12910803986040678698&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031090&hvtargid=pla-437600037492&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=57631863970&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312097317052&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12910803986040678698&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031090&hvtargid=pla-437600037492

Edited by Richie
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13 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

This is what you should see IF @ TDC compression stroke on #1 cylinder, both valves closed...

 

8Gj0vYy.jpg

So I am completely off and have to reposition it

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3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

the blue motor  looks correct on timing.  2 hours?????????????  3mins max

 

little thick on the RTV!!!!!!!!!!! on the front cover

Yea the RTV was a little excessive 

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 Own a Chev? or GM. That's what they do. Go to any wrecking yard that has '80s and '90s cars and specially... trucks. The intakes are glued on with 1/2" thick layer of orange RTV.

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18 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 Own a Chev? or GM. That's what they do. Go to any wrecking yard that has '80s and '90s cars and specially... trucks. The intakes are glued on with 1/2" thick layer of orange RTV.

So when I put the bead of RTV on there I swear it didn’t look like that much. But I just screwed myself trying to get the front cover off now. 

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I09FWrH.jpg

 

I pulled this 4" long Blue RTV worm out of a KA head. The owner used to own Chevs and sealed up the water pump or thermostat cover with RTV instead of a proper gasket. Christ knows how much ended up in the rad. 

 

Less is more. If the factory didn't use it, YOU shouldn't use it.

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

I09FWrH.jpg

 

I pulled this 4" long Blue RTV worm out of a KA head. The owner used to own Chevs and sealed up the water pump or thermostat cover with RTV instead of a proper gasket. Christ knows how much ended up in the rad. 

 

Less is more. If the factory didn't use it, YOU shouldn't use it.

So I should take it off clean it and redo it huh? 🙃

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On 5/28/2021 at 2:24 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

No special tools other than that gauge I linked above. You use the TDC pointer, and no, you don't need cam specs.

 

22REs are point and shoot. There's not a lot you can do to them, since they run pretty well in stock form. I deleted all the emissions stuff from the one in my ROver, and all that I removed was a handful of hoses and a couple vacuum valves.

 

The RD350 is a fun bike. My buddy brought over his RZ350 a few weeks ago and let me take it for a spin. Brought back memories.

 

So yeah, not special tools required, except the wobbly arm dial indicator. You can even do it with feeler gauges, but that's a pain.

Stroffregen: you referenced setting up the cam timing using a dial indicator several times. Can you give a quick tutorial on how to do that?

Thanks. T

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