Jump to content

New at engine rebuild L16


Richie

Recommended Posts

That's never a good idea. If it ran, then the cam timing is probably OK. If it's out you don't need to take it apart, there is a way to see if it's out, not guesswork, and an adjustment can be made. Same with the ignition timing, it can be checked and adjusted if needed.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
  • Replies 528
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

22 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

That's never a good idea. If it ran, then the cam timing is probably OK. If it's out you don't need to take it apart, there is a way to see if it's out, not guesswork, and an adjustment can be made. Same with the ignition timing, it can be checked and adjusted if needed.

it wasnt running and honestly i just wanted to rebuild it and learn why not

 

Link to comment
11 minutes ago, Richie said:

so I got the timing kit in. There is no timing indicator on the back of the sprocket and no indicator on the chain itself. 
 

https://imgur.com/a/inJUpN7

 

Best thing you can do is pull the marks of the old set and copy them over to the new. I had this issue once.. now I just look for kits with the markings. OSK is a good one.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
3 minutes ago, Draker said:

 

Best thing you can do is pull the marks of the old set and copy them over to the new. I had this issue once.. now I just look for kits with the markings. OSK is a good one.

Yea I counted the teeth and teeth in between the marks. It matches correctly. With the chain thoo I was thinking making the marks line up with the old chain by counting and that’ll be my new indicator on my new one. Sound correct?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
6 hours ago, Richie said:

Yea I counted the teeth and teeth in between the marks. It matches correctly. With the chain thoo I was thinking making the marks line up with the old chain by counting and that’ll be my new indicator on my new one. Sound correct?

Yep, as long as it’s the same length. Make a mark, scratch a line into it or something. Same with the cam gear. Don’t go crazy, just enough to see if it gets oily. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment

G7woXOU.jpeg

 

Without the V notch cut above those 3 holes, you can't check later to see if the sprockets and chain are worn.

 

 

At top dead center the notch should be below and just slightly to the right of the etched mark on the cam thrust plate behind it...

 

propper cam timing

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment

That is the real problem. If you transfer the marks from the old pulley to new, it’s better than nothing. You can see the mark on the back, so you might have to get creative to make it work.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment

to mark the chain ,the stock one was a jap made one youll have the brite links. just put them up to the new chain and mark them with paint or what ever.

 

the spocket best to pick the center point of the dowel hole then ectch the mark on the upper part of the sprket and maybe where the V nocth on the trucst plate you have to make it higher to see.

 

really in this case youll use the brite links on the chain lined up with the dimples on the sprockets that will be the best you can do. You can set to 1 or 2 on sprocket. L20 are on #2 dowel on stock set ups. L16s l18s its usually on #1 but on performance cams it could be any of the holes to get best set up. But since you cant see its almost useless to timed the cam perfect.Unless one has a degree wheels and can figure it out

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
4 hours ago, Richie said:

Hey so as I put the new gasket on I noticed 4 extra holes in the gasket on the exhaust side of the block where there isn’t any holes. Is this a problem?

 

https://imgur.com/a/SyNuPjl

I cant really tell for sure because of the angle of the picture , but make sure the fire ring of the head gasket is bigger than the bore, it looks really close.. .

Link to comment
2 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

I cant really tell for sure because of the angle of the picture , but make sure the fire ring of the head gasket is bigger than the bore, it looks really close.. .

Ooo it does look close. I see what you mean. Dang I torqued it down already 

Link to comment
5 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

You could see the whole piston in the pic. I'd say it's fine.

Yea I took it off and looked at it. The angle makes it look like it barely clears but it’s fine. Thanks for noticing that. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment

I would file a small notch above each hole. If the large holes don't allow you to se the notches then don't bother. When the engine is properly set to TDC the notch is the only way to check for proper cam timing or wear. 

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment

Crap I cant believe they have gone bad also on those timing kits no masrks on them

Tsubaki is the one to get

https://www.ebay.com/itm/351435735931?hash=item51d333c37b:g:-qAAAOSwo0JWO1KX

 

least its has the brite links

 

I would take the old sprocket and get a matching size drill bit and put them together and ink pen it then make a notch with a GOOd corner of the  file to get the that v mark on the sprockets

lseries09.jpg

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
  • Like 1
Link to comment
4 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Crap I cant believe they have gone bad also on those timing kits also.

Tsubaki is the one to get

I was pretty upset also because i contacted the seller and he verified it. But i am just going to transfer the marking. 

I feel like the marks on the back are pretty important and dont understand why manufacturers wouldnt recognize that.   

Link to comment
1 minute ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

at least it has the HOLES to see thru as the Mellig and Cloyes ones the inspection hole is in the wrong spot. Just use the brite links on initial set up to get right and then use the timing marks on the crank and pointer. Hope for best on cam sprocket. but if brite linkon sprocket dimple your OK

I am currently watching that video also

Link to comment

This one needs to go to the next number up. This will move the sprocket 4 degrees clockwise, or about the width of the V.

 

keiaq2L.jpeg

 

This one is good enough

 

jhv44Dp.jpg

 

It's absolutely essential that the engine be at TDC and all slack removed from the tension side chain.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.