Crashtd420 Posted May 11, 2021 Report Share Posted May 11, 2021 9 hours ago, Richie said: So I should make it flush? Yes 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 11, 2021 Report Share Posted May 11, 2021 Put a little sealer on the threads and crank it in with a wrench. If that's hand tight it will go in more. IF anything sticking up grind it off. You'll never see it again anyway. The one time I did this... Won't do it again. 1 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted May 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2021 1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said: They are not tapped from the factory, it's just a press fit slug ... I got them tapped just for in the future if I change them it’s easier. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 11, 2021 Report Share Posted May 11, 2021 Pipe plugs are made in different depths. I believe the trade name for thin plugs is "flush" or maybe "blind". I can't remember. McMaster-Carr sells them with diagrams so you know what you're buying - https://www.mcmaster.com/50925K629/ https://www.mcmaster.com/flush-pipe-plugs/drive-style~hex/ 1 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted May 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2021 1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Pipe plugs are made in different depths. I believe the trade name for thin plugs is "flush" or maybe "blind". I can't remember. McMaster-Carr sells them with diagrams so you know what you're buying - https://www.mcmaster.com/50925K629/ https://www.mcmaster.com/flush-pipe-plugs/drive-style~hex/ Damn I wish I had this before. What I end up doing is sizing it up to the old plugs. The front one is the most important one because the timing chain. I sized the pipe plug with the old press plug and measured so I don’t cover the oil whole. Then I grind the back just a little and then the face until it was flush. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 11, 2021 Report Share Posted May 11, 2021 That works too. 1 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted May 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2021 https://imgur.com/a/NZyFqJ6 Slowly starting to look like an engine Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted May 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2021 hey guys, i am a little confused (whats new) on the timing sprocket for L18. https://zcardepot.com/collections/engine-rebuild/products/timing-chain-set-l16-l18-l20b-510 This first one is that same type of sprocket that came off the engine originally when i started the rebuild, but its says its for a 510. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1974,620+pickup,1.8l+l4,1210105,engine,timing+set,5756 This one looks like the one that is in the service manual and the book i have to rebuild the engine. Which should i buy? is there a difference? and why are they like that? thank you. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 16, 2021 Report Share Posted May 16, 2021 They will both do the same job. But this one is a more common after market sprocket. The Melling brand is exactly like the stock one. I would get this one. 1 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted May 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2021 50 minutes ago, datzenmike said: They will both do the same job. But this one is a more common after market sprocket. The Melling brand is exactly like the stock one. I would get this one. So the melling brand from rock auto? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 17, 2021 Report Share Posted May 17, 2021 (edited) That Melling you wont be able to line up the v on the sprocket to time it ez. get a Tsubaki or OSK timming set both those listed are not the good sets. they will work but the Japan made only with the brite silver links are the better sets. Edited May 17, 2021 by banzai510(hainz) 1 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 17, 2021 Report Share Posted May 17, 2021 this is the one to get L16/18 https://www.ebay.com/itm/351435735931?hash=item51d333c37b:g:-qAAAOSwo0JWO1KX 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 17, 2021 Report Share Posted May 17, 2021 Earlier L motors had more cam advance, so if it's listed for a 510 with an L16, it (theoretically) should have more advance than a timing set for an L18. This is an entirely blanket statement based on factory parts. All bets are off when it comes to aftermarket. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 17, 2021 Report Share Posted May 17, 2021 The 1, 2 and 3 cam holes are 4 degrees apart and a tooth is 9 degrees. Assuming you are on the #2 hole you can combine these and can get 13, 9, 5, 4 retarded and 4, 5, 9 and 13 degrees advance on the cam. 1 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted May 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2021 dang I bought the melling one from rock auto. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 your going to wish you didnt!!!!!!!!!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted May 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 (edited) 45 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: your going to wish you didnt!!!!!!!!!!!! I’m already wishing. Also 71 and up years used 9mm connecting rod bolts right? I’m checking the torque specs on everything before I put the head on. Edited May 18, 2021 by Richie Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 The '73 L16 in the 620 truck uses the same rod bolt part number as the L18 and the L20B. (I assume this is a 9mm) The rod bolt's nut however is the same part number as used on the '71 and up L16s in the 521. So, yes this looks correct. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 Nissan basically used two rod bolts throughout the 70s and 80s. Good way to save on development costs. As far as the timing set goes, I like to buy them from enthusiast shops, not from big box stores. Enthusiast guys know what parts to use and will stock only those parts. But, if you'd rather drive the car than spend time building it, there is one basic philosophy that applies. Don't let perfect be the enemy of good. 1 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted May 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Nissan basically used two rod bolts throughout the 70s and 80s. Good way to save on development costs. As far as the timing set goes, I like to buy them from enthusiast shops, not from big box stores. Enthusiast guys know what parts to use and will stock only those parts. But, if you'd rather drive the car than spend time building it, there is one basic philosophy that applies. Don't let perfect be the enemy of good. well i just want the ease to time it, because one of the main reasons i started the build was that the timing was off, the distributor was advanced, then when i took the head off cylinder 3 was all kinds of messed up. So i guess ill return the other one, but if itll work and i can time it easy, wouldnt it be fine to use? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 the good sprockets one can see the timing marks when the dowel is correct position look thru the inspection hole. the Mellig the dowel is there but the hole blocks the view cause they put it in the wrong spot 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 Maybe that was just one bad gear you got there Hainz? If you want to be able to adjust your cam timing, use offset cam gear bushings. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4760 Drill the hole in the sprocket, set the timing with the preferred bushing, done. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 (edited) well was just showing what gear he needs to get. the one pictured is a Nissan unit. the Melling wong even have this be honest I love my Toyota trucks now 91&92 YEAH!!!!!!Datsuns are going to 2nd tier status now Edited May 18, 2021 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 3 hours ago, Richie said: well i just want the ease to time it, because one of the main reasons i started the build was that the timing was off, the distributor was advanced, then when i took the head off cylinder 3 was all kinds of messed up. So i guess ill return the other one, but if itll work and i can time it easy, wouldnt it be fine to use? The timing chain has NOTHING TO DO WITH IGNITION TIMING!!!!!!!!! The distributor is driven off a worm gear on the crankshaft. If the ignition timing is out just adjust the distributor. Like everyone else does. The cam is chain driven off the crankshaft. There is a provision for retarding the cam timing IF there is wear or the head is planed down. For this you set the engine to TDC and check it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Richie Posted May 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 Just now, datzenmike said: The timing chain has NOTHING TO DO WITH IGNITION TIMING!!!!!!!!! The distributor is driven off a worm gear on the crankshaft. If the ignition timing is out just adjust the distributor. Like everyone else does. The cam is chain driven off the crankshaft. yea i remember you told me that. but i took it apart because i was curious to see what other problems i could find. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.