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New at engine rebuild L16


Richie

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Put a little sealer on the threads and crank it in with a wrench. If that's hand tight it will go in more. IF anything sticking up grind it off. You'll never see it again anyway.

 

 

The one time I did this...

 

30zfKAq.jpg

 

Won't do it again.

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Pipe plugs are made in different depths. I believe the trade name for thin plugs is "flush" or maybe "blind". I can't remember.

 

McMaster-Carr sells them with diagrams so you know what you're buying - https://www.mcmaster.com/50925K629/

https://www.mcmaster.com/flush-pipe-plugs/drive-style~hex/

 

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Pipe plugs are made in different depths. I believe the trade name for thin plugs is "flush" or maybe "blind". I can't remember.

 

McMaster-Carr sells them with diagrams so you know what you're buying - https://www.mcmaster.com/50925K629/

https://www.mcmaster.com/flush-pipe-plugs/drive-style~hex/

 

Damn I wish I had this before. What I end up doing is sizing it up to the old plugs. The front one is the most important one because the timing chain. I sized the pipe plug with the old press plug and measured so I don’t cover the oil whole. Then I grind the back just a little and then the face until it was flush. 

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hey guys, i am a little confused (whats new) on the timing sprocket for L18. 

 

https://zcardepot.com/collections/engine-rebuild/products/timing-chain-set-l16-l18-l20b-510 

This first one is that same type of sprocket that came off the engine originally when i started the rebuild, but its says its for a 510. 

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1974,620+pickup,1.8l+l4,1210105,engine,timing+set,5756

This one looks like the one that is in the service manual and the book i have to rebuild the engine. 

 

Which should i buy? is there a difference? and why are they like that? thank you. 

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50 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

They will both do the same job. But this one is a more common after market sprocket.

Timing Chain Set L16 L18 L20B 510

 

 

The Melling brand is exactly like the stock one.

I would get this one.

 

 

 

So the melling brand from rock auto?

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The 1, 2 and 3 cam holes are 4 degrees apart and a tooth is 9 degrees. Assuming you are on the #2 hole you can combine these and can get 13, 9, 5, 4 retarded and 4, 5, 9 and 13 degrees advance on the cam.   

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45 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

your going to wish you didnt!!!!!!!!!!!!

I’m already wishing. 
 

Also 71 and up years used 9mm connecting rod bolts right? I’m checking the torque specs on everything before I put the head on. 

Edited by Richie
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The '73 L16 in the 620 truck uses the same rod bolt part number as the L18 and the L20B. (I assume this is a 9mm) The rod bolt's nut however is the same part number as used on the '71 and up L16s in the 521. So, yes this looks correct.

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Nissan basically used two rod bolts throughout the 70s and 80s. Good way to save on development costs.

 

As far as the timing set goes, I like to buy them from enthusiast shops, not from big box stores. Enthusiast guys know what parts to use and will stock only those parts. But, if you'd rather drive the car than spend time building it, there is one basic philosophy that applies. Don't let perfect be the enemy of good.

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Nissan basically used two rod bolts throughout the 70s and 80s. Good way to save on development costs.

 

As far as the timing set goes, I like to buy them from enthusiast shops, not from big box stores. Enthusiast guys know what parts to use and will stock only those parts. But, if you'd rather drive the car than spend time building it, there is one basic philosophy that applies. Don't let perfect be the enemy of good.

well i just want the ease to time it, because one of the main reasons i started the build was that the timing was off, the distributor was advanced, then when i took the head off cylinder 3 was all kinds of messed up. So i guess ill return the other one, but if itll work and i can time it easy, wouldnt it be fine to use?

 

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3 hours ago, Richie said:

well i just want the ease to time it, because one of the main reasons i started the build was that the timing was off, the distributor was advanced, then when i took the head off cylinder 3 was all kinds of messed up. So i guess ill return the other one, but if itll work and i can time it easy, wouldnt it be fine to use?

 

 

The timing chain has NOTHING TO DO WITH IGNITION TIMING!!!!!!!!!

 

The distributor is driven off a worm gear on the crankshaft. If the ignition timing is out just adjust the distributor. Like everyone else does.

 

The cam is chain driven off the crankshaft. There is a provision for retarding the cam timing IF there is wear or the head is planed down. For this you set the engine to TDC and check it.

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Just now, datzenmike said:

 

The timing chain has NOTHING TO DO WITH IGNITION TIMING!!!!!!!!!

 

The distributor is driven off a worm gear on the crankshaft. If the ignition timing is out just adjust the distributor. Like everyone else does.

 

The cam is chain driven off the crankshaft.

yea i remember you told me that. but i took it apart because i was curious to see what other problems i could find. 

 

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