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1984 Nissan 720 2.4l carb


Buckner99

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Lookin to buy a new carb mines pretty well shot. Cant afford a Weber one so just want to buy a stock one. Wanting to know if a good website to buy from. Found this one but not sure 
https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/product/carburettor-for-nissan-720-pickup-24l-z24-engine-1983-1986-16010-21g61carby.html?tracking=googleshoppingUS&code=USD&tracking=googleshopping&gclid=Cj0KCQiAh4j-BRCsARIsAGeV12BOxEu12-8aeMsRtyu42c03vJqGq6Jl4eAFStS7K9OdcIBRvbc-keYaAn4pEALw_wcB

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How well you know me. I wrote the following but forgot to hit the Submit Reply. Lets see how close you are. Written maybe 2 -3 hrs. ago.

 

 

 

A new carburetor from Nissan is almost $870. A rebuilt one probably half that, maybe try Pierce Manifolds.

 

There's not much to wear out on a carburetor. What happens is the accelerator pump diaphragm wears out, they get dirt in them or the settings/adjustments go bad. If money is tight get a rebuild kit. I just take them apart and clean them and put back together. The gaskets can easily be reused if they weren't in a fire.  A Nissan factory service manual (FSM) gives all the adjustments and settings. A good kit is $30 and up but if you can find just the accelerator pump that's mostly what you need.

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To ID the carburetor look and see if you have 6 wires on a plug at the rear of the carburetor and, is there an O2 sensor in the exhaust manifold???? If you do this is a California emissions ECC or feedback carb DFP384. If not you have a Federal emissions carburetor DCR 384

 

Poor gas mileage can be several easy to fix things...

Is the choke still on when the engine is warmed up??? Take the top off the air filter and look.

Carburetor flooding. Gas level should be at the dot on the glass window on the front of the carburetor.

Check that both intake and exhaust coils are firing.

Timing should be 50 BTDC

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I think the choke is still on when the engine is warmed up. Timing isn’t on point yet because when I put the new timing cover on I didn’t have a timing scale. It’ll be fixed soon. I disconnected the 2 sensors on the passenger side fender well that the vacuum line goes to, so both coils should be firing...

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20 minutes ago, Buckner99 said:

The one I have linked is $80? I can’t find any rebuild kits 

 

The original one is close to $900 so what do you expect from one sold for $80??????????? This is a Chinese made POS.

 

1 minute ago, Buckner99 said:

I think the choke is still on when the engine is warmed up. Timing isn’t on point yet because when I put the new timing cover on I didn’t have a timing scale. It’ll be fixed soon. I disconnected the 2 sensors on the passenger side fender well that the vacuum line goes to, so both coils should be firing...

 

Find out if the choke is on or even part on. Choke on is the most common cause of very poor mileage.

 

Should be? Never assume. Pull a coil wire off and stick an old plug in the end and lay on a grounded surface. Turn engine with starter.... got spark. Do both coils.

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Check to see if there is power on the Blue wire to the choke heater. ENGINE MUST BE RUNNING FOR THIS. Without it, the choke won't turn off. This could indicate that the relay isn't working or the alternator may be having problems.... but the easiest fix is to jumper power from the Red wire to the idle cut solenoid right beside it.

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Good info on here Mike. soon as 91 2wd is ready to drive going to put 84 4x4 in shop. Needs some running gear work but mostly carb issues. Crappy milage but think there is a leak somewhere. Have to use it every day so just living with it for now. Some vacuum tubing missing so will have to deal with that, have the schematic you posted and a spare engine to copy. Couple carbs off some wrecked trucks laying around, have a kit, will get a finicky buddy of mine to rebuild one. Been saving all your replies to people in a file so I know the 4x4 carb has bigger barrels on the motor side. Will let you know how it works out. Picked up an 85 4x4 for 650, body a mess but running, almost zero vacuum lines on it. Going to use the shorter driveshaft from the 84 single cab short box as a dimension and move the axle ahead that far, flat deck, raise up for 32" tires, voila- cheap quad! How much can I crank the front end up before it becomes a wheel alignment issue?

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10 hours ago, Buckner99 said:

Considering it’s an actual website and is matching the OEM numbers, has 486 sold carbs and all good reviews. 

 

Try it. I'm of the belief that you get what you pay for.

 

8 hours ago, weldingrod said:

Good info on here Mike. soon as 91 2wd is ready to drive going to put 84 4x4 in shop. Needs some running gear work but mostly carb issues. Crappy milage but think there is a leak somewhere. Have to use it every day so just living with it for now. Some vacuum tubing missing so will have to deal with that, have the schematic you posted and a spare engine to copy. Couple carbs off some wrecked trucks laying around, have a kit, will get a finicky buddy of mine to rebuild one. Been saving all your replies to people in a file so I know the 4x4 carb has bigger barrels on the motor side. Will let you know how it works out. Picked up an 85 4x4 for 650, body a mess but running, almost zero vacuum lines on it. Going to use the shorter driveshaft from the 84 single cab short box as a dimension and move the axle ahead that far, flat deck, raise up for 32" tires, voila- cheap quad! How much can I crank the front end up before it becomes a wheel alignment issue?

 

The barrel closest the Z series engine is always larger but 2wd and 4x4 are basically the same carburetor. The primary barrel is 34mm and the secondary is 38mm.

 

 

1 hour ago, jagman said:

Mike,  I have been following this thread and am confused are the original carbs in short supply or is it the rebuild kits?

 

If you can find an original carburetor that has been 'rebuilt/reconditioned' then ok but a lot are made from scratch in China or Asia somewhere and are poorer quality.

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If you go with the cheap Chinese knockoff, I'll guess you won't have many if not most of the vacuum lines.  Just a guess.

 

Original carburetors are no longer available as new.  I'd imagine there are plenty available through rebuilders. 

 

Here is just one example

https://nationalcarburetors.com/Datsun-Nissan-Pick-Up-1984-1987-24L-8-pos-plug-w6-wire-leads-feedback-model_p_281.html

 

They also have a rebuild your carburetor service, for what looks like $50 less.  Maybe, the 720 carb doesn't fall under the 'most' category.

https://nationalcarburetors.com/RR-Service-Rebuild-Return-Your-Carburetor_c_199.html

Edited by 720_Jeff
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Where at in Washington? I have a few stock carbs for them floating around and know the 720 inside and out. Mike is damn hard to argue with but I am a die hard weber guy. $300 for a new one isn't that crazy to get your truck running perfect and easy to adjust.

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  • 2 months later...

Thought I would revive an old thread, rather than post a new one.

 

My mc solenoid is bad, I tested it and got no resistance. I found a carburetor for cheap, seller says everything works, and it is a DFP384-7. Has the float bowl vent tube, 6 pin connector, and everything else my carb has, so this should be a california compliant carb right? Seller does not know.

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DFP 384-7 I can't find the -7 listed for any Z24. 

 

The 384 is a Z24 carburetor. If it has 6 wires it is an ECC (electronic controlled carb) primarily used for California emissions but some others as well. I would say it will work but may not pass emissions. About all you can do is make sure it has the #94/#170 primary/secondary jets or put yours in. 

 

If you can get the mixture solenoid out just swap it.

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