Charlie69 Posted December 24, 2020 Report Share Posted December 24, 2020 (edited) OP is in California so no Webers are legal in Cal. Edited December 24, 2020 by Charlie69 1 Quote Link to comment
igotatruck Posted December 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2020 6 hours ago, datzenmike said: No although there was one once. 32/34??? Do you mean this one? https://www.yotashop.com/weber-carburetor-toyota-pickup-truck-4wd-2-4l-22r-1981-1984-weber-carburetor-kit-32-36-dgev-electric-choke-california-legal-k8749/ Whats better about the Webers over the stock (Hitachi?) Quote Does yours have 6 wires going into it, and an O2 sensor in the exhaust manifold? Yep 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 24, 2020 Report Share Posted December 24, 2020 That's a ECC or electronic controlled carburetor or feedback carb. Rather than a primary jet there is a rapidly opening and closing solenoid letting gas through. It's constantly adjusting itself with feedback from an O2 sensor to keep as close to perfect mixture as it can. There's a box under the driver's seat that computes the solenoid's opening and closing rate. It's about as close as a carburetor can get to being EFI. If there is a failure of one of the sensors the ECU under the seat can default to a 'limp home' mode of extra rich mixture to prevent engine damage. 2 Quote Link to comment
igotatruck Posted December 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2020 lolololol https://toyotaminis.com/forum/threads/how-to-make-weber-carb-ca-legal.16939/ 1 Quote Link to comment
igotatruck Posted December 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2020 42 minutes ago, datzenmike said: If there is a failure of one of the sensors the ECU under the seat can default to a 'limp home' mode of extra rich mixture to prevent engine damage. I'm pretty sure its been running like this, stinks like gas when starting up. I know there are some threads to diagnose this written up around here, and I have the next week off work so I have time to work on it. The last two times I had to smog it, I was paying extra for the 'guaranteed pass' tests. But I'd really rather just have it work correctly. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted December 25, 2020 Report Share Posted December 25, 2020 I did not know about this Toyota Weber. I would contact Pierce Manifold to see if there is a Cal smog aproved Weber for the Z24. Or if the Toyota kit can be adapted. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 25, 2020 Report Share Posted December 25, 2020 16 hours ago, igotatruck said: I'm pretty sure its been running like this, stinks like gas when starting up. I know there are some threads to diagnose this written up around here, and I have the next week off work so I have time to work on it. The last two times I had to smog it, I was paying extra for the 'guaranteed pass' tests. But I'd really rather just have it work correctly. It will smell, all exhaust smells. If warming up the choke will be on, see those two pictures I posted. When warmed up the choke should be off and the choke plate vertical.... is it??? this can easily be fixed if not. 2 Quote Link to comment
igotatruck Posted December 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 (edited) On 12/25/2020 at 6:57 AM, datzenmike said: It will smell, all exhaust smells. If warming up the choke will be on, see those two pictures I posted. When warmed up the choke should be off and the choke plate vertical.... is it??? this can easily be fixed if not. It seems like the autochoke/fast idle does work, when cold it keeps the RPMs around 1.2k, until I tap the gas and then it will settle back down to around 7-800. It isn't always consistent about this. Edited December 30, 2020 by igotatruck added more info 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 As in it doesn't always drop down after a tap? 2 Quote Link to comment
igotatruck Posted December 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 1 minute ago, datzenmike said: As in it doesn't always drop down after a tap? Sometimes it will drift back up. It will also hesitate and sputter for a split second if I jam on the accel quickly. 1 Quote Link to comment
igotatruck Posted December 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 I pulled the cover off the air filter so I can see in. The choke valve is open after running it for a bit, I'm letting it cool down now to make sure it actually closes all the way. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 The choke must be off if you expect it to 'kick down'. If the choke is on it may not allow the idle to lower. Next time the idle does not lower or climbs up again, check to see if it's the choke being on. 2 Quote Link to comment
igotatruck Posted December 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 (edited) I think its more likely now that the choke isnt closing/turning on. My main gripe is how rough it runs when I first start it up, and it doesnt even get that cold here. I can see a solid 12.4V on the blue wire to the heater, so my relay seems okay. However, the little door (red arrow), which I think is the choke, hasnt moved at all since I fired it up and let it run for 5 min this morning. This is with the needle all the way down on C. Is the crappy spring (blue arrow) supposed to close it? Edited December 30, 2020 by igotatruck 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 Dopes your choke heater have three phillips screws holding it on or is it riveted on? 2 Quote Link to comment
igotatruck Posted December 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 (edited) Screws, looks just like that pic. Edited December 30, 2020 by igotatruck 1 Quote Link to comment
igotatruck Posted December 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 I take it back, the choke does close just fine. I watched it gradually open up as it warmed up here. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 51 minutes ago, igotatruck said: Screws, looks just like that pic. I take it back, the choke does close just fine. I watched it gradually open up as it warmed up here. It opens ALL the way to vertical???? 2 Quote Link to comment
igotatruck Posted December 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 1 minute ago, datzenmike said: It opens ALL the way to vertical???? Yep 1 Quote Link to comment
igotatruck Posted December 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 Tried to get a clip of the way it hesitates and shakes when I try to accel fast: out.mov Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 OK next time the truck is warmed up and the idle goes up by itself take another look and confirm the choke is still open. 2 Quote Link to comment
vinylman33 Posted September 28, 2023 Report Share Posted September 28, 2023 does anyone have a direct link to the throttle body adapter for the 2 barrel Holley EFI? I currently have a weber, however I want to get the Holley Sniper EFI 2300 Two-Barrel Fuel Injection Systems 550-849K. thanks Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 29, 2023 Report Share Posted September 29, 2023 15 hours ago, vinylman33 said: does anyone have a direct link to the throttle body adapter for the 2 barrel Holley EFI? I currently have a weber, however I want to get the Holley Sniper EFI 2300 Two-Barrel Fuel Injection Systems 550-849K. thanks Trying looking through this thread.... Did the manifold originally have a Hitachi and it was converted to a weber with an adapter? I ask because I dont believe there was an adapter to go from Hitachi to Holley.... if you adapted to put the weber on you'll be stacking up the adapters it the setup will be too tall.... there are some that will be close but not sure which one.... Other option is to make your own flat adapter... Quote Link to comment
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