521 radiator and Header

[green9333]

Upgrading my 72 521 to a L20B. Any suggestion for a new Radiator and a good Header? most Radiators I see don't come with a radiator shroud, I think the shroud is also pretty important.

 

Thanks!

[wayno]

I put an L20b in my 1971 Datsun 521 work truck and used the stock L16 radiator, then I upgraded to an LZ23 and still used the L16 radiator, but as the years went by my temps would get higher during the summer, so eventually I put one of them aluminum 3 core radiators in my work truck, I did have the fan shroud, and it was used as a work truck, just ask anyone on here that knows of me.

[datzenmike]

Every L16 owner (or L20B) I have to post the same picture and text to.

 

 

Unless you heavily modify your engine with cam, head work and multiple carburetors a header has no advantage over the stock L16 cast iron exhaust manifold other than lighter, saving a few pounds. Headers...

 

May last 5 years with luck but it has a shelf life.

They get rusty and look like shit in a few months unless you spend another $100 for ceramic coatings.

They make noise.

Never fit, ever, without some fucking around and denting to clear the torsion bar. Always something.

Raise under hood temperatures.

The always come loose, or the collector comes loose or both, rattle and or gasket leaks, cracks and needs welding. (maintenance)

Pain in the ass to install.

Power increase, if any, is so slight you won't notice it.

 

Stock L16 exhaust...

Nothing to do, it's already there.

Never ever wears out.

Never leaks.

Quiet.

 

My advice if you do install a header is... keep the old exhaust manifold so you can put it back on. Biggest mistake I ever made was the header, second was throwing the manifold away. Spend the money and time saved for some shocks, tires, EI distributor, tach....

 

 

 

 

[Charlie69]

3 hours ago, wayno said:

I put an L20b in my 1971 Datsun 521 work truck and used the stock L16 radiator, then I upgraded to an LZ23 and still used the L16 radiator, but as the years went by my temps would get higher during the summer, so eventually I put one of them aluminum 3 core radiators in my work truck, I did have the fan shroud, and it was used as a work truck, just ask anyone on here that knows of me.

Wayno is a honest and is a great information source along with datzenmike.  Both know there shit when it comes to Datsuns.

[DanielC]

Here is another vote for the stock L-16 radiator being sufficient on an L-20-B engine in a 521.  I am also going to suggest you check the ignition timing, and make sure it it not retarded.  10 to 12 degrees BTDC is a good place to start.   learn what preignition or detonation sounds like.   50 year old vehicles do not have a spark knock sensor to protect the engine, you have to be able to hear it, and have the knowledge to prevent and fix detonation.

If you have the L-20-B engine with the exhaust manifold and intake manifold joined together, that uses exhaust heat to warm the intake manifold, I would try to get an intake manifold with water runners in it, and a stock "Y" exhaust manifold.  The L-20-B engine also had a separated exhaust manifold that is acceptable, but not as desirable as the L-16 exhaust manifold.

Before you get a header, make the rest of the exhaust system bigger.  I run a 2" system on two of my 521 trucks, one with a L-20-B and five speed from a 1980 720 truck, the other 521 has a L-18 and a five speed.  

[datzenmike]

Both intake and exhaust manifolds from your L16 will fit the L20B. As Daniel said the L20B may have the bolted together intake and exhaust manifolds so there will be no coolant holes in the head for the coolant to flow through the intake. Use the gasket to locate and drill two 3/8" holes then use your 521 coolant by pass tube to complete the modification. This what I did on my '76 710's L20B.

[mrbigtanker]

15 hours ago, green9333 said:

Upgrading my 72 521 to a L20B. Any suggestion for a new Radiator and a good Header? most Radiators I see don't come with a radiator shroud, I think the shroud is also pretty important.

 

Thanks!

As these guys said, the stock is more then great to run. If you need a aftermarket radiator just get the Datsun 510 KoyoRad aluminum. Good radiator its shiny so you know you have a radiator and you can bolt the factory shroud to it as well. Headers are lighter and in our climate will work fine. But in my opinion the only one i would buy is the one from Troy Ermish. The other short ones like Mike posted above are fuckin garbage. There ugly as shit mimic the factory one as he pictured. TE headers are better flow and mimic the Datsun competition header. 

[Crashtd420]

4 minutes ago, mrbigtanker said:

As these guys said, the stock is more then great to run. If you need a aftermarket radiator just get the Datsun 510 KoyoRad aluminum. Good radiator its shiny so you know you have a radiator and you can bolt the factory shroud to it as well. Headers are lighter and in our climate will work fine. But in my opinion the only one i would buy is the one from Troy Ermish. The other short ones like Mike posted above are fuckin garbage. There ugly as shit mimic the factory one as he pictured. TE headers are better flow and mimic the Datsun competition header. 

While I agree the troy ermish header is sweet, I think the header is sold for a 510,  I didn't think it fits a stock 521 with torsion bars.  I have been eyeing them for my next winter project.....

 

[datzenmike]

Spend the money on a good custom 2" exhaust with the largest muffler you can fit on a 2" pipe and 45⁰ outlet dump down in front of the rear axle. Call it good. Two inch is what the later 720 truck uses with the 2.2 and 2.4 engines. You don't need an expensive 'turbo' muffler a 2" muffler is cheap and plenty low restriction and without the tail pipe the sound reflects up into the truck anyway. 

[Charlie69]

12 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

Wayno is a honest and is a great information source along with datzenmike.  Both know there shit when it comes to Datsuns.

You can add Daniel C, Crashtd420 and then add Mr Tanker for the heavier walleted people.also. 

[mrbigtanker]

1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

While I agree the troy ermish header is sweet, I think the header is sold for a 510,  I didn't think it fits a stock 521 with torsion bars.  I have been eyeing them for my next winter project.....

 

I know it will fit, there close to the block and Tranny, Have one in my wagon and its a tight fit with were the 510 steering box is located, had to take steering box off to install, man was I pissed .

[mrbigtanker]

53 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

You can add Daniel C, Crashtd420 and then add Mr Tanker for the heavier walleted people.also. 

Well I get Kameari racing headers now. don't ask price, just know there cheap.lol

[mrbigtanker]

Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr

 

KOYO with the factory fan shroud.

[mrbigtanker]

Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr

 

Dont mind all the bling, but see how close they are to the block, 510, truck same orientation except the steering box which this Troy Ermish one barely clears along the engine. Its good and tight as the German said to the Virgin.

 

 

[datzenmike]

I had to take the driver's side torsion bar off on my 521. It was either to take the transmission out or more likely for that damned header. Steering column doesn't help. This was in the mid 70s but here on Ratsun it was suggested unbolting the engine mount to bracket and jack engine up out of the way for added clearance.

 

Long tube better be for the L20B and not a 'one size fits all' type. The L20B block is 3/4" taller so the collector will be that much closer to the under side of the floor.

[mrbigtanker]

4 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

I had to take the driver's side torsion bar off on my 521. It was either to take the transmission out or more likely for that damned header. Steering column doesn't help. This was in the mid 70s but here on Ratsun it was suggested unbolting the engine mount to bracket and jack engine up out of the way for added clearance.

 

Long tube better be for the L20B and not a 'one size fits all' type. The L20B block is 3/4" taller so the collector will be that much closer to the under side of the floor.

Mike he makes one header for the L16/18 and one for the L20B for that reason. Torsion bar was for tranny, not my first rodeo also. I have a truck a RHD and LHD I could be on to something not sure.

 

 

Also the steering column I mentioned is due to design of header as it hugs the engine and not pushed off the block buy one and find out for me..

Edited December 12, 2020 by mrbigtanker

[datzenmike]

Ah... that was meant for green 9333 if thinking of a long tube. You're certainly old enough to know what you're doing. Mine was a Hedman and long with big collector under floor. Looked easy so started after lunch ran out of light finished Sunday PM. I thought it was going to fly with a $80 header!!!! on it, you know release all those hidden horses....... so disappointed. Over the next few years all the disadvantages showed up. Even if I kept the old manifold... all that god damn work to take it back out???  

[mrbigtanker]

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Ah... that was meant for green 9333 if thinking of a long tube. You're certainly old enough to know what you're doing. Mine was a Hedman and long with big collector under floor. Looked easy so started after lunch ran out of light finished Sunday PM. I thought it was going to fly with a $80 header!!!! on it, you know release all those hidden horses....... so disappointed. Over the next few years all the disadvantages showed up. Even if I kept the old manifold... all that god damn work to take it back out???  

The one he makes is food quality and I believe he using the same job at old Nissan competition. Kameari makes one also but for RHD. Just bought one for coupe, all stainless steel.