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Advice please


Toneloc521

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3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

this is what I think. since you said you had idle issues one turned the advance up on the distributor to keep it running at a lower RPM. cause maybe the the idle mixure is off(look into this also)  which can make it look like a plugged idle jet,,  then one cheap by turing the speed screw in more than 2 3 turns to open the carb flap.

to get a good carb one need the idle jet cleared and the mixture set..

 

 

Let us know if you have spark at the center coil wire when placed near the chassis. if you have spark then we can work on the carb issues.   If not spark we are in the dark until then

 

 

this is less than a 30 min job to trouble shoot this.

I hate duel point distributors and I bet half the datsuns lost was cause of this, other half is Head gasket then owner not fixing the chain correctly during install or dropped chain tensioner fell out

I really do appreciate all the knowledge and advice if I need to provide more info please let me know what is needed to be known 

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This is really getting good. We have Hainz with a lot of knowledge, but terrible reading comprehension and grammar, and Mike who just repeats everything, trying to help someone who is clearly still learning. I needed this at the end of 2020.

 

Toneloc (hopefully you're not the real one because his rapping sucked), consolidate your thoughts and post once instead of 40 times in a row, or else it makes this thread confusing. We're 7 pages deep and barely any further than where we started.

 

We mentioned that your idle/transition circuit in your Weber may be clogged. Have you done anything at all to check that yet? The more shit you take apart all at once, and the more confusing this is going to be.

Edited by mainer311
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38 minutes ago, Toneloc521 said:

I’m pretty sure your speaking for yourself I have spark I’ve said it multiple times 

 

Having spark and checking the points gap are not the same thing. It will spark above and below those points gaps but it will affect the timing and the spark quality. Checking the points gap will also show up burned or eroded contacts that really should be changed less they cause another problem later.

 

25 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

This is really getting good. We have Hainz with a lot of knowledge, but terrible reading comprehension and grammar, and Mike who just repeats everything, trying to help someone who is clearly still learning. I needed this at the end of 2020.

 

Toneloc (hopefully you're not the real one because his rapping sucked), consolidate your thoughts and post once instead of 40 times in a row, or else it makes this thread confusing. We're 7 pages deep and barely any further than where we started.

 

We mentioned that your idle/transition circuit in your Weber may be clogged. Have you done anything at all to check that yet? The more shit you take apart all at once, and the more confusing this is going to be.

 

I repeat because most of the time I ask something and never get a clear answer. Next most often is the same question asked 8 posts later that I, or someone, have already answered. Last is 15 pages in I'm not spending 1/2 hour re reading everything to find out they have a Weber instead of stock carb. Sometime it's mentioned but often not and time wasted on a wrong reply.  Happy 2021 Mainer

 

Tonelok with practice you can use multiple quotes and replies in one post.

 

Pick one problem and solve it. Move to next problem.

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2 hours ago, mainer311 said:

This is really getting good. We have Hainz with a lot of knowledge, but terrible reading comprehension and grammar, and Mike who just repeats everything, trying to help someone who is clearly still learning. I needed this at the end of 2020.

 

Toneloc (hopefully you're not the real one because his rapping sucked), consolidate your thoughts and post once instead of 40 times in a row, or else it makes this thread confusing. We're 7 pages deep and barely any further than where we started.

 

We mentioned that your idle/transition circuit in your Weber may be clogged. Have you done anything at all to check that yet? The more shit you take apart all at once, and the more confusing this is going to be.

Okay let’s get back to this one problem at a time is I’ll check the idle/transition circuit when I get home and get a clear answer on this I’m sorry that I have been all over the place and what I have changed is: 

spark plugs: they were ngk b6es so that’s what I replaced them with. They are pretty black on the ends

Spark plug wires

distributor cap 

rotor for distributor 

Ignition coil 

&

ignition switch 

installed everything the exact same way I found it and it works the same way it did before I changed these parts.

 I agree with Mainer I’ll work one thing at a time I’m gonna go back to the Weber and check the idle/transition circuit and take top off and look at my jets and make sure we’re not clogged up.

please if you feel I’m leaving things out let me know and I will try and get you the best answer based on my truck. I will inform you guys of the things I am gonna do before doing them I’m really not trying to fuck the truck up just wanting to learn about the processes before getting balls deep I will try to acknowledge all questions with an answer from this point on 

Edited by Toneloc521
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38 minutes ago, Toneloc521 said:

I agree with Mainer I’ll work one thing at a time I’m gonna go back to the Weber and check the idle/transition circuit and take top off and look at my jets and make sure we’re not clogged up.

This is me just my opinion.

Now I hate taking apart carbs.  As I said earlier lets check for SPARK.

 

Next if you don't its the carb if yhou have spark spray Starter fluid in the carb and see if it fires off. Starting fluid is really flammable and it bypasses all the jets ect and goes righ into the manifold and if the valves are working and adjusted the motor weill fire off.

 

If the old fuel filter was super filthy(cut it open) then I can see opening up the carb.    another way to cheap if put the choke plate closed fully and try to start and pump the gas and it might run from the 2nd barrel as its a vacuum only circuit and with the choke closed might be enough to suck thru the 2nd barrel jet. If main jet is plugged

 

SPARK!!!!!

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1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

This is me just my opinion.

Now I hate taking apart carbs.  As I said earlier lets check for SPARK.

 

Next if you don't its the carb if yhou have spark spray Starter fluid in the carb and see if it fires off. Starting fluid is really flammable and it bypasses all the jets ect and goes righ into the manifold and if the valves are working and adjusted the motor weill fire off.

 

If the old fuel filter was super filthy(cut it open) then I can see opening up the carb.    another way to cheap if put the choke plate closed fully and try to start and pump the gas and it might run from the 2nd barrel as its a vacuum only circuit and with the choke closed might be enough to suck thru the 2nd barrel jet. If main jet is plugged

 

SPARK!!!!!

So I thought maybe hitting with some liquid fire starting fluid but I wasn’t sure I’ll try that too but I will open the top of the carb at first then go from there I really think my problems are in the carb I have spark fersure 

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Just having spark is not good enough.   It has to be at the right time.   On a four cylinder engine, you can have spark at the right time, in relation to the engine being at TDC, but because of the 90 degree spacing of the spark plug wire towers on the distributor cap, the rotor can be far enough away from a tower that you get a spark on a wrong cylinder, or none at all.   It takes considerably more voltage to fire a spark plug under compression than it does with only air pressure with a spark plug laying on the valve cover, or somewhere else.

 

Turn the engine to 10 degrees before TDC #1 by hand.  Remove the distributor cap, make a mark on the distributor body with a felt pen where the center of the distributor rotor points.   Put the cap back on, the tower with the plug wire for #1 cylinder should line up with the mark you made where the rotor is pointing.

 

On another note, have you checked compression on the engine?

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33 minutes ago, DanielC said:

Just having spark is not good enough.   It has to be at the right time.   On a four cylinder engine, you can have spark at the right time, in relation to the engine being at TDC, but because of the 90 degree spacing of the spark plug wire towers on the distributor cap, the rotor can be far enough away from a tower that you get a spark on a wrong cylinder, or none at all.   It takes considerably more voltage to fire a spark plug under compression than it does with only air pressure with a spark plug laying on the valve cover, or somewhere else.

 

Turn the engine to 10 degrees before TDC #1 by hand.  Remove the distributor cap, make a mark on the distributor body with a felt pen where the center of the distributor rotor points.   Put the cap back on, the tower with the plug wire for #1 cylinder should line up with the mark you made where the rotor is pointing.

 

On another note, have you checked compression on the engine?

I haven’t checked the compression yet my buddy has a compression tester but I just haven’t been able to get with him

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You guys are still missing the original post. He said it was running fine, but then had to use the choke to keep it going. Everything points to the carb. 
 

A compression test? Don’t bother.

Firing order and timing just leave where they are. It WAS running before. You can check timing after you get it running.

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2 hours ago, mainer311 said:

You guys are still missing the original post. He said it was running fine, but then had to use the choke to keep it going. Everything points to the carb. 
 

A compression test? Don’t bother.

Firing order and timing just leave where they are. It WAS running before. You can check timing after you get it running.

Yes but he changed everything also  cap rotor ect. People put stuff on wrong ect……..

 

I never seen a compression tester, I just make sure the valves are loose on the back side of cam and assume its good. It wasn't missing a silinder so assume that it all good if a valve got tight or a seat came loose or total piston failure(Hole)

 

like I said shoot STARTer fluid in there then adjust the dist retard in increments as Mike said.  Starter fluid bypass the carb and if compression is good it will fire off

 

good luck  the otherscan handle this

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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On 12/3/2020 at 9:52 PM, Toneloc521 said:

My name is Anthony I recently bought a 71 521 it ran great but now I can’t seem to get it to start, it try’s and try’s but doesn’t fully start. I am not sure where to start I have been doing a ton of research. It will turn over if I choke it but won’t idle for more then a minute any advice would be appreciated if more info is needed I can provide it and also photos 

 

This is the original post and we're 7 pages in. It was about 20 more posts before we found out it was a weber carb. After 7 pages about 200 posts I can't remember what was asked and what was answered. Ignition, capacitors, points, wiring, choke, fuel filter, vacuum advance, dead battery, FSM, ....

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42 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

This is the original post and we're 7 pages in. It was about 20 more posts before we found out it was a weber carb. After 7 pages about 200 posts I can't remember what was asked and what was answered. Ignition, capacitors, points, wiring, choke, fuel filter, vacuum advance, dead battery, FSM, ....

 

 Original post - Airhead syndrome ?  Assume everyone is a mind reader.

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59 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

This is the original post and we're 7 pages in. It was about 20 more posts before we found out it was a weber carb. After 7 pages about 200 posts I can't remember what was asked and what was answered. Ignition, capacitors, points, wiring, choke, fuel filter, vacuum advance, dead battery, FSM, ....

I’ll figure it out thanks anyways take care guys  appreciate all the insight

Edited by Toneloc521
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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

This is the original post and we're 7 pages in. It was about 20 more posts before we found out it was a weber carb. After 7 pages about 200 posts I can't remember what was asked and what was answered. Ignition, capacitors, points, wiring, choke, fuel filter, vacuum advance, dead battery, FSM, ....

Page three clearly shows a Weber in about 10 different pics.

 

The internet is not all that it's cracked up to be. It keeps people inside asking questions rather than going out into the shop and figuring things out.

 

Here are some basic rules for "figuring things out" -

Never assume anything.

Never assume any one part is good or bad until you can safely rule it out.

Never trust codes given by a scanner (they are usually just symptoms).

Use your head and think. Hmmm, when did this problem start? Just after I replaced the whatever. Go back over the events leading up to the problem.

Oh yeah, most importantly - never let your neighbor work on your carburetor.

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3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

This is the original post and we're 7 pages in. It was about 20 more posts before we found out it was a weber carb. After 7 pages about 200 posts I can't remember what was asked and what was answered. Ignition, capacitors, points, wiring, choke, fuel filter, vacuum advance, dead battery, FSM, ....

Fire order? 

242A65D0-0A13-4102-931F-20725331D5FF.jpeg

90E07841-AC33-4303-AB44-2C15ABE6D9CF.jpeg

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On 12/17/2020 at 11:03 AM, datzenmike said:

 

 

I repeat because most of the time I ask something and never get a clear answer. Next most often is the same question asked 8 posts later that I, or someone, have already answered. Last is 15 pages in I'm not spending 1/2 hour re reading everything to find out they have a Weber instead of stock carb. Sometime it's mentioned but often not and time wasted on a wrong reply.  Happy 2021 Mainer

 

 

 

Pick one problem and solve it. Move to next problem.

 

Certainly add to this list just a poor and tired memory on my part. I read almost all the posts and answer most. Easy to loose track while the original poster has only one. Page 3 Weber is about 200 posts back.... I should have looked to refresh memory.

 

1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Page three clearly shows a Weber in about 10 different pics.

 

The internet is not all that it's cracked up to be. It keeps people inside asking questions rather than going out into the shop and figuring things out.

 

Here are some basic rules for "figuring things out" -

Never assume anything.

Never assume any one part is good or bad until you can safely rule it out.

Never trust codes given by a scanner (they are usually just symptoms).

Use your head and think. Hmmm, when did this problem start? Just after I replaced the whatever. Go back over the events leading up to the problem.

Oh yeah, most importantly - never let your neighbor work on your carburetor.

 

Addition to #2 above. Never throw parts at it. No spark? put new coil in?  is not only both a waste of money and time it also introduces parts that have never been tested and are often of poorer quality than the originals.

 

#4 is excellent.

 

#5 So true. They mean well but....? I would never let a mechanic of today near my Datsun. Last time they saw a carburetor they were  5 years old. Don't get me started on what passes for a mechanic today. They are parts replacers.

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5 minutes ago, Toneloc521 said:

Fire order? 

242A65D0-0A13-4102-931F-20725331D5FF.jpeg

90E07841-AC33-4303-AB44-2C15ABE6D9CF.jpeg

 

Yes.... if the rotor is under the #1 wire on the cap when the engine is at TDC compression stroke on #1 cylinder

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