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Advice please


Toneloc521

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14 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

This is for the 510 with a small amount of 521 info. Engine and drive train is the same as the 510 wagon and there's a 521 wire diagram that I think is a misnamed 620 diagram. Absolutely get a FSM for your year if you can. The Chiltons and Haynes  tend to cover all years and even that, badly while the '71 FSM will be over an inch thick and cover EVEYTHING. This is the Datsun bible 

Yea looking through this it doesn’t cover a lot of physical things about the 521 

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That Haynes manual is fine to get the truck started.

 

You never showed me where that blue wire from the distributor went to.  Get a photos of the whole thing.

 

 

If LIGHTS don't come ON then ck the wire by the starter back up to the fuse box and fuse. Get a New fuse or clean the copper on the fuse block. 521s have constant issue with this and just moving the fuse back and forth fixes 70% of the proplem.

 

Get a test light and volt meter

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1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

That Haynes manual is fine to get the truck started.

 

You never showed me where that blue wire from the distributor went to.  Get a photos of the whole thing.

 

 

If LIGHTS don't come ON then ck the wire by the starter back up to the fuse box and fuse. Get a New fuse or clean the copper on the fuse block. 521s have constant issue with this and just moving the fuse back and forth fixes 70% of the proplem.

 

Get a test light and volt meter

I will post a picture of the blue wire 

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And then I have been reading about timing(not gonna fuck with the timing until carb issues are solved) and this looks like someone retarded the time pretty far from center (black line)

786FCDA2-91D2-406A-B70F-384F3F1C6133.jpeg

Edited by Toneloc521
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The blue with a yellow stripe wire is for the second retarded set of points.  It is only used in third gear, part throttle.  I think that if you have a weber carburetor, you have removed at least one of the switches necessary for that system to work. 

 

Straighten out your timing pointer.  If you remove all four spark plugs, and the fan belt is fairly tight, you should be able to rotate the engine by hand.  Because a four cylinder in line engine has two pistons at Top Dead Center, and two pistons at Bottom Dead Center, you should be able to feel that point in the engines rotation by turning the crankshaft pulley.  this will allow you to get the timing pointer pretty close to where is should be.

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Also in this Haynes book it shows the firing order being different then what I have found online or what we talked about in my book it’s looks like the order goes 1432 but in everything and everyone else says 1342 so I’m confused

Edited by Toneloc521
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10 hours ago, Toneloc521 said:

On the timing marker I think that’s a good way to put it it’s bent a little but I mean taking it off flattening it out then putting it back on is probably okay?

1D08D8F8-8374-4209-AAE3-87B9343A8986.jpeg

 

This needs to be straightened.

 

Firing order is 1342 in a counter clockwise direction on the distributor cap. Find TDC on #1 cylinder, on the compression stroke, take distributor cap off see where rotor is pointing... that's #1 set 342 in a counter clockwise direction...

 

220px-Counterclockwise_arrow.svg.png

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3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

This needs to be straightened.

 

Firing order is 1342 in a counter clockwise direction on the distributor cap. Find TDC on #1 cylinder, on the compression stroke, take distributor cap off see where rotor is pointing... that's #1 set 342 in a counter clockwise direction...

 

220px-Counterclockwise_arrow.svg.png

It’s based off where the rotor points? I know you said this above just want to clarify

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If you set the engine to top dead center on the number one cylinder while it is on it's compression stroke. The distributor rotor should be pointing at or very close to the number one plug wire above it on the distributor cap. Plugs 3, 4 and 2 are arranged in a counter clockwise direction on the cap.

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10 hours ago, datzenmike said:

If you set the engine to top dead center on the number one cylinder while it is on it's compression stroke. The distributor rotor should be pointing at or very close to the number one plug wire above it on the distributor cap. Plugs 3, 4 and 2 are arranged in a counter clockwise direction on the cap.

When you say pointing I imagine the would be the pointing side? 

 

AA6C85B4-7836-496C-AD7B-72FD350700BE.jpeg

Edited by Toneloc521
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10 hours ago, datzenmike said:

If you set the engine to top dead center on the number one cylinder while it is on it's compression stroke. The distributor rotor should be pointing at or very close to the number one plug wire above it on the distributor cap. Plugs 3, 4 and 2 are arranged in a counter clockwise direction on the cap.

Making the fire order this?

C0DED73A-2A40-4EB0-811B-47363893932C.jpeg

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your dist is so far advanve on the plate , there might be a issue with something.  too me it need to be retarded abit more , only way to know for sure is for you to get a timming light

 

yes that's the fire order

 

 

you even look to see if the points are opening and closing, set the gap on the main points???????????

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12 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

your dist is so far advanve on the plate , there might be a issue with something.  too me it need to be retarded abit more , only way to know for sure is for you to get a timming light

 

yes that's the fire order

 

 

you even look to see if the points are opening and closing, set the gap on the main points???????????

I haven’t really been fucking  with the points yet the gap should be like a 1/4”? 

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On 12/15/2020 at 10:08 PM, Toneloc521 said:

And then I have been reading about timing(not gonna fuck with the timing until carb issues are solved) and this looks like someone retarded the time pretty far from center (black line)

786FCDA2-91D2-406A-B70F-384F3F1C6133.jpeg

Should I go back to center and go from there?

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this is what I think. since you said you had idle issues one turned the advance up on the distributor to keep it running at a lower RPM. cause maybe the the idle mixure is off(look into this also)  which can make it look like a plugged idle jet,,  then one cheap by turing the speed screw in more than 2 3 turns to open the carb flap.

to get a good carb one need the idle jet cleared and the mixture set..

 

 

Let us know if you have spark at the center coil wire when placed near the chassis. if you have spark then we can work on the carb issues.   If not spark we are in the dark until then

 

 

this is less than a 30 min job to trouble shoot this.

I hate duel point distributors and I bet half the datsuns lost was cause of this, other half is Head gasket then owner not fixing the chain correctly during install or dropped chain tensioner fell out

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

the points are .018 to like .022    1/4 is really .250  so I know you cant get that.

 

points wear out over time and close if not maintained and causes one to loose spark.   You never said if you have spark or not so we don't know where you even at

I have spark fersure 

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3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

the points are .018 to like .022    1/4 is really .250  so I know you cant get that.

 

points wear out over time and close if not maintained and causes one to loose spark.   You never said if you have spark or not so we don't know where you even at

I’m pretty sure your speaking for yourself I have spark I’ve said it multiple times 

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2 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

this is what I think. since you said you had idle issues one turned the advance up on the distributor to keep it running at a lower RPM. cause maybe the the idle mixure is off(look into this also)  which can make it look like a plugged idle jet,,  then one cheap by turing the speed screw in more than 2 3 turns to open the carb flap.

to get a good carb one need the idle jet cleared and the mixture set..

 

 

Let us know if you have spark at the center coil wire when placed near the chassis. if you have spark then we can work on the carb issues.   If not spark we are in the dark until then

 

 

this is less than a 30 min job to trouble shoot this.

I hate duel point distributors and I bet half the datsuns lost was cause of this, other half is Head gasket then owner not fixing the chain correctly during install or dropped chain tensioner fell out

I am just trying to learn a little bit more before I fuck with two much I have spark tho. My neighbor has worked on these I found out yesterday he said he will come by with his timing light and help me out 

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