1lo620 Posted November 27, 2020 Report Share Posted November 27, 2020 So how hard is it to rebuild a 32/36 weber. I think mine is in need Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 27, 2020 Report Share Posted November 27, 2020 What's it doing? 90% of carburetor problems turn out to be ignition 90% of ignition problems turn out to be carburetor. Weber adapters have a habit of coming loose or the adapter can crack from tightening a loose one. Webers are sensitive to too high a fuel pressure, mostly when the get older. Eliminate everything first or you'll have to come back anyway and do it after you 'rebuild' it... http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm 1 Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted November 27, 2020 Report Share Posted November 27, 2020 Dont you have the thread about having electrical problems? Your ignition switch wont work and you use a remote button or pop start it all the time? Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted November 28, 2020 Report Share Posted November 28, 2020 Whats that beater doing now? Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 28, 2020 Report Share Posted November 28, 2020 Weber carbs almost never need a "rebuild". They do get dirty from sitting with modern gas, and sometimes the accelerator pump diaphragm may get torn and need replacing, but other than that, the problems you are having are not likely rebuild worthy. Work the throttle while looking down the carb. If it squirts gas, you are likely ok. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 28, 2020 Report Share Posted November 28, 2020 The can get dirty inside and they may get out of adjustment or 'tune'. Gaskets and jets don't wear out. Only in extreme cases will the throttle shaft wear oval causing idle problems and in many cases this is the owner using too stiff a return spring. 1 Quote Link to comment
1lo620 Posted November 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 Ok what "my beater" as Steve calls it. Is doing is. I will be cruising down the freeway buzzing about 70ish. And if I go to get On it to pass a car what have you. It will sputter and a few times back fired. I thought it was a fuel thing so replaced the fuel filter. Helped a touch but it still does it. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 Could be the accelerator pump like stoffregen mentioned. They are pretty easy to inspect and replace on the weber. Quote Link to comment
1lo620 Posted November 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 I dont know Steve is my Beater worth it..lol. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 50 minutes ago, 1lo620 said: Ok what "my beater" as Steve calls it. Is doing is. I will be cruising down the freeway buzzing about 70ish. And if I go to get On it to pass a car what have you. It will sputter and a few times back fired. I thought it was a fuel thing so replaced the fuel filter. Helped a touch but it still does it. Does it do this then clear out and go??? or just keep doing it??? It may be cruising on the primary and the secondary opens when floored. If the secondary jet is dirty or partly blocked the fuel mixture will go lean. Lean fuel mixtures burn slower and may back fire. When floored the cylinder completely fills with air as opposed to part throttle and part filled. It takes a lot more spark to jump the plug when the cylinder is full and compressed. In these instances the spark might find an easier way to ground than the spark plug. Like across an old or cracked distributor cap, rotor, coil, maybe jump from one wire to another and can even jump down the side of the spark plug porcelain on the outside if dirty enough. Less likely but worth checking is a tight valve lash preventing an intake closing tightly. Cylinder pressures can exceed 1,000 PSI during combustion so valves must be tightly closed. Damage to the valve face or seat also. 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 (edited) time it first. its free 70ish MPH???? I say carb is good maybe distributor wearing out. Cheack for slop in the dist shaft Edited November 30, 2020 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
1lo620 Posted November 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 17 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: time it first. its free 70ish MPH???? I say carb is good maybe distributor wearing out. Cheack for slop in the dist shaft Quote Link to comment
1lo620 Posted November 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 Damn I wish I still lived the NW Hainz I would run it down and have you look at it. I am not a mechanic so a lot of this is foreign to me. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 2 hours ago, 1lo620 said: I dont know Steve is my Beater worth it..lol. I think it is. 😄 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 5, 2020 Report Share Posted December 5, 2020 Send your distributor to Jeff Schlemmer (distributorguy) or Rebello Racing and spend the $150 to have it re-curved. That will be the best money spent. Did you check to see if the gas is squirting down the barrel? If it is not, then the accell pump is shot or the jet it clogged. If it is squirting, then you could spend a couple hours changing jets and test driving it to get it just right. Get a new set of NGK B6ES spark plugs and check that your cap and wires are good. Seriously though, a good blueprinted distributor is going to do the most for you. 1 Quote Link to comment
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