Kaido Racer inspired 82 Diesel Maxima.

[ArchetypeDatsun]

Hope to see you and your maxima at the Datslocos car show in Manteca this month on the 22nd I'll be picking up my turbo maxima from my buddies shop.

[Anonymous Waffle]

Photo dump from Powerland. 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 29 by Anonymous Waffle

[Anonymous Waffle]

 

Edited April 29 by Anonymous Waffle

[Anonymous Waffle]

Double post.

Edited April 29 by Anonymous Waffle

[]2eDeYe]

Love this car 🙂

[banzai510(hainz)]

I always like those cars. Better if round headlamps but I like them. Love the square look like a 510, Mercedes w114/1125 series. Cortinas ect.......

[Anonymous Waffle]

Update time. Been a long while since I did some work on the maxima, but had some spare time in the last month or so, so I did some work. 

 

 

I dropped the transmission to do a clutch job and replace a failing throw out bushing, and while I was at it, took some measurements and documented information regarding a factory 5 speed behind a ld28. I posted alot of information in this new topic I posted in the general forum. 

 

 

A TLDR for anyone who doesn't want to read in that topic. 

A factory 5 speed in a Ld28 maxima, uses a 225MM Pressure plate and clutch off of a standard 280zx, but uses a SPECIALTY throw out collar.

I found that a non turbo 1990-1996 300zx collar is similar looking part with VERY similar measurements, shown in this photo (Silver marking are 300zx measurements, black is old maxima measurements)

 

I did not use the 300zx collar, because I did not get it soon enough to compare it side by side, so I used the old collar with a new bushing.


I learned that the manual Maxima uses a clutch damper, very similar to the clutch damper used in the 90-96 300zx, and is a common part that is bypassed by the 300 guys. In fear of the part failing after 230,000 miles, and a replacement part from the 300zx costing 150$, I chose to bypass it as well. It was a simple procedure, reusing one of the lines off the damper, a 10mm brake line union, and a longer soft line from the front brake hose off a 620 pickup. It also lead to MUCH nicer clutch feel, and actually has a clutch feel to it now. 

 

 

This is the crossmember off of my 82 maxima. AFAIK it looks to be a maxima specific designed crossmember, utilizing a 3 piece design.

 

 

NEW shifter bushings FTW!!

 

 

While the maxima was in the air, I also replaced the rack and pinion with a rebuilt one off of rockauto. One of the problems I ran into was the rack and pinion mount bushings. I couldn't find anything online about the bushings, and took a gamble and bought a set of 280zx poly bushings and HOPED that it would fit. And I can confirm, it DOES work on a maxima. Poly bushings are a PITA to install with a power steering rack, but it is doable. One bolt at a time, and a large pair of grips to "compress" the bushings to install the mount was necessary. 

 

 

 

While installing the rack and pinion, I upgraded the inner and outer tie rods. I had issues with the stock s13 inner and outer tie rods, where I did not have enough threads on the inner tie rods, which lead to too much toe out. I bought a set of GKtech M14 SUPER ADJUSTABLE INNER TIE ROD, which is 70mm longer than a stock s14 tie rod, and has more thread length. I chopped them to length, used stock S14 outer tie rods, and now I have proper alignment! I may upgrade to adjustable outer tie rods in the future, to get rid of bump steer. If you go this path, you must use s14 outer tie rods, which are m14 compared to m12 of the s13. 

 

 

[Anonymous Waffle]

Just some updates. I love taking photos of this car 🤩

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Anonymous Waffle]

This is a project I need to do soon. Finding a vacuum pump equipped alternator for a ld28 is damn near impossible. After lots of research, I found that a isuzu NPR / Chevy Tiltmaster has a diesel engine that uses the same exact style alternator, and parts are available!

 

Few notes. They're 70 amp vs 60 amp (I believe), they're a 3 plug, and uses a separate circuit to excite the alternator. So it must be converted to a self exciting alternator, just like a GM one wire alternator mod. I bought some connectors to adapt the 2 wire connector to a 3 wire connector I bought online, and will make it self excite through the connector at the same time. 

 

The pulley needs to be swapped, and I need to check to see if the shaft diameter is the same. 

 

Also! The oil feed line hose is available as a mitsubishi brand part, used on the npr. 25$

 

 

 

Og alternator. 

 

Edited May 2 by Anonymous Waffle

[Anonymous Waffle]

I polished my SSR mk1's very lightly, but I did end up polishing one pair too much compared to the other pair. The ssr's are a few years apart, and one pair is showing some wear, and isn't holding a shine as good.

 

 

 

[Anonymous Waffle]

Also turbo build update. I've been taking a long time to do this, but I've been busy haha. But I have about everything mocked up on the spare engine I have. 

 

 

 

Pressure washed the sumbitch

 

 

I'm using a stud kit for a l28, and noticed I need to do more grinding. A few studs are too close to fit a nut, and one nut doesn't have enough room for a socket or wrench 😂

 

Godzilla raceworks oil feed line, and a T from a l28et. The hardline from a l28et sadly won't work. I have to remove the oil filter/cooler unit to get access to the oil pressure switch. No, you sadly can't remove the engine bracket without removing the injector lines. No thanks!

 

 

how I have the charge pipe setup. It fits very tightly, and is just a stock l28et pipe, but with the hose clamp part ground off. 

 

 

Found a CNC mamba wastegate mount that worked for the z31 turbo. I did have to grind some stuff off the compressor housing, but the bracket worked, and after bending the actuator rod in a few spots, I've got a working wastegate I can now adjust.

 

[]2eDeYe]

Love this car 😄