Kaido Racer inspired 82 Diesel Maxima.

[ArchetypeDatsun]

Hope to see you and your maxima at the Datslocos car show in Manteca this month on the 22nd I'll be picking up my turbo maxima from my buddies shop.

[Anonymous Waffle]

Photo dump from Powerland. 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 29, 2022 by Anonymous Waffle

[Anonymous Waffle]

 

Edited April 29, 2022 by Anonymous Waffle

[Anonymous Waffle]

Double post.

Edited April 29, 2022 by Anonymous Waffle

[]2eDeYe]

Love this car 🙂

[banzai510(hainz)]

I always like those cars. Better if round headlamps but I like them. Love the square look like a 510, Mercedes w114/1125 series. Cortinas ect.......

[Anonymous Waffle]

Update time. Been a long while since I did some work on the maxima, but had some spare time in the last month or so, so I did some work. 

 

 

I dropped the transmission to do a clutch job and replace a failing throw out bushing, and while I was at it, took some measurements and documented information regarding a factory 5 speed behind a ld28. I posted alot of information in this new topic I posted in the general forum. 

 

 

A TLDR for anyone who doesn't want to read in that topic. 

A factory 5 speed in a Ld28 maxima, uses a 225MM Pressure plate and clutch off of a standard 280zx, but uses a SPECIALTY throw out collar.

I found that a non turbo 1990-1996 300zx collar is similar looking part with VERY similar measurements, shown in this photo (Silver marking are 300zx measurements, black is old maxima measurements)

 

I did not use the 300zx collar, because I did not get it soon enough to compare it side by side, so I used the old collar with a new bushing.


I learned that the manual Maxima uses a clutch damper, very similar to the clutch damper used in the 90-96 300zx, and is a common part that is bypassed by the 300 guys. In fear of the part failing after 230,000 miles, and a replacement part from the 300zx costing 150$, I chose to bypass it as well. It was a simple procedure, reusing one of the lines off the damper, a 10mm brake line union, and a longer soft line from the front brake hose off a 620 pickup. It also lead to MUCH nicer clutch feel, and actually has a clutch feel to it now. 

 

 

This is the crossmember off of my 82 maxima. AFAIK it looks to be a maxima specific designed crossmember, utilizing a 3 piece design.

 

 

NEW shifter bushings FTW!!

 

 

While the maxima was in the air, I also replaced the rack and pinion with a rebuilt one off of rockauto. One of the problems I ran into was the rack and pinion mount bushings. I couldn't find anything online about the bushings, and took a gamble and bought a set of 280zx poly bushings and HOPED that it would fit. And I can confirm, it DOES work on a maxima. Poly bushings are a PITA to install with a power steering rack, but it is doable. One bolt at a time, and a large pair of grips to "compress" the bushings to install the mount was necessary. 

 

 

 

While installing the rack and pinion, I upgraded the inner and outer tie rods. I had issues with the stock s13 inner and outer tie rods, where I did not have enough threads on the inner tie rods, which lead to too much toe out. I bought a set of GKtech M14 SUPER ADJUSTABLE INNER TIE ROD, which is 70mm longer than a stock s14 tie rod, and has more thread length. I chopped them to length, used stock S14 outer tie rods, and now I have proper alignment! I may upgrade to adjustable outer tie rods in the future, to get rid of bump steer. If you go this path, you must use s14 outer tie rods, which are m14 compared to m12 of the s13. 

 

 

[Anonymous Waffle]

Just some updates. I love taking photos of this car 🤩

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 7, 2022 by Anonymous Waffle

[Anonymous Waffle]

This is a project I need to do soon. Finding a vacuum pump equipped alternator for a ld28 is damn near impossible. After lots of research, I found that a isuzu NPR / Chevy Tiltmaster has a diesel engine that uses the same exact style alternator, and parts are available!

 

Few notes. They're 70 amp vs 60 amp (I believe), they're a 3 plug, and uses a separate circuit to excite the alternator. So it must be converted to a self exciting alternator, just like a GM one wire alternator mod. I bought some connectors to adapt the 2 wire connector to a 3 wire connector I bought online, and will make it self excite through the connector at the same time. 

 

The pulley needs to be swapped, and I need to check to see if the shaft diameter is the same. 

 

Also! The oil feed line hose is available as a mitsubishi brand part, used on the npr. 25$

 

 

 

Og alternator. 

 

Edited October 7, 2022 by Anonymous Waffle

[Anonymous Waffle]

I polished my SSR mk1's very lightly, but I did end up polishing one pair too much compared to the other pair. The ssr's are a few years apart, and one pair is showing some wear, and isn't holding a shine as good.

 

 

 

Edited October 7, 2022 by Anonymous Waffle

[Anonymous Waffle]

Also turbo build update. I've been taking a long time to do this, but I've been busy haha. But I have about everything mocked up on the spare engine I have. 

 

 

 

Pressure washed the sumbitch

 

 

I'm using a stud kit for a l28, and noticed I need to do more grinding. A few studs are too close to fit a nut, and one nut doesn't have enough room for a socket or wrench 😂

 

Godzilla raceworks oil feed line, and a T from a l28et. The hardline from a l28et sadly won't work. I have to remove the oil filter/cooler unit to get access to the oil pressure switch. No, you sadly can't remove the engine bracket without removing the injector lines. No thanks!

 

 

how I have the charge pipe setup. It fits very tightly, and is just a stock l28et pipe, but with the hose clamp part ground off. 

 

 

Found a CNC mamba wastegate mount that worked for the z31 turbo. I did have to grind some stuff off the compressor housing, but the bracket worked, and after bending the actuator rod in a few spots, I've got a working wastegate I can now adjust.

 

Edited October 7, 2022 by Anonymous Waffle

[]2eDeYe]

Love this car 😄

[Anonymous Waffle]

Just dropping in to post more updates. I just recently hit 250k miles on the ol gal, today its at 256, so I've done 40,000 miles on this thing. Woo! 

 

I've been experimenting with different thermostats, as the oem thermostat is impossible, and finding the correct height thermostat is not easy. The correct thermostat has a bypass plug that opens, and I believe the height is critical. I've bought about 3-4 different part number variations, and currently I am rocking a Motorad 2028-160. I'm also running a s13 aluminum N-FLOW radiator now, lot's of cooling in prep for turbo goodness.

 

A couple of other thermostat's I've been experimenting with. (fyi, on the nissandiesel forums, people have found a "solution" for a thermostat replacement, but only a 190(?)/180(?) thermostat is available, and I wanted a 160. 

 

 

What I am currently running.

 

 

This is what the ld28 thermostat housing looks like.. FYI the ld28 thermostat housing/top, even though its a 3 bolt, is not the same as a 280zx. 😒😒😒

 

 

My neighbors probably think I'm weird when I bleed my cooling system like this.

 

 

N-Flo S13 radiator goodness. Kind of wish I went with a bigger 3 core instead, but I could do that in the future. I figured that this N flow design is better than the conventional design of the original radiator. FYI my "reman" radiator liked to leak which was cool. 

 

 

 

 

[Anonymous Waffle]

Also just recently I dropped the transmission for a very quick rebuild. Did this in a day and a half or so. Dropped it to replace the throw-out bearing (that has barely 10k miles or so?) as it already started making noise, and to replace the counter shaft bearing. I had a rebuild kit, so I went and replaced the main shaft bearing too, as it didn't sound very healthy. 

 

Always a familiar sight at this house lol.

 

 

 

I didn't have a long armed puller, so I had to take out the shift rods in order to pull the main/input bearing.

 

 

Saw this underneath the input bearing. There's no finger catch scratch, but it does look like heat scouring. This transmission was "rebuilt" as I saw the shaft nuts were re-used. Maybe the input shaft bearing got hot once before. 

 

 

I bought a exedy clutch kit when I first did the clutch job, but I guess I wasn't paying attention to the bearing. Somehow I got a no name, no brand bearing. So I replaced both the throwout collar with a nissan oem, and the bearing with a Koyo Brand bearing. Should be good, and is silent now.

 

 

I often buy parts from Japan, via amayama or Jauce, and I bought this transmission crossmember mount for a laurel equipped with a ld28, hoping to gamble that its the same part. Sadly the exhaust hanger is offset on the maxima, vs this is not. But I guess this will fit a 300zx or a r31 lol.

 

 

So far from buying stuff from Japan, I have found half of the crossmember, and some of the bushings. I now have the part numbers for the crossmember internal bushings too, which you cannot find in the Parts Manual. Yeah I know, its dumb that its not listed, (or im blind and dumb)

 

 

 

Crossmember pic for fun. Unobtanium, that I'm hoping Chris Miller out of Godzilla raceworks can start manufacturing. 

 

 

Drove the Maxima the next day after the quick rebuild. 

 

 

 

Edited October 7, 2022 by Anonymous Waffle

[datzenmike]

 

Mainshaft bearing is pressed onto the mainshaft so the inner race turns with it. The bearing inner race

would be blue from heat if it over heated.

 

 

Release bearing are noisy when clutch is being used. If clutch is not being used it's not turning unless there is a problem with the hydraulics such as the pedal play is too tight. You might want to check the pedal play as this will just wear out the new bearing.

 

Most noise is from the counter bearing at the front. It spins at all times the clutch pedal is up or engaged and the engine running. Depending on the wear it can be noisiest under load, speeding up or slowing down, in all gears except 4th where is can be much quieter than all other gears. If very worn it can be noisy in neutral while idling with clutch up. 

 

In '85 the 56mm counter bearing was replaced with a 62mm one. This was continued into the '71C transmission that replaced the 71B.

[Anonymous Waffle]

6 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

Mainshaft bearing is pressed onto the mainshaft so the inner race turns with it. The bearing inner race

would be blue from heat if it over heated.

 

 

Release bearing are noisy when clutch is being used. If clutch is not being used it's not turning unless there is a problem with the hydraulics such as the pedal play is too tight. You might want to check the pedal play as this will just wear out the new bearing.

 

Most noise is from the counter bearing at the front. It spins at all times the clutch pedal is up or engaged and the engine running. Depending on the wear it can be noisiest under load, speeding up or slowing down, in all gears except 4th where is can be much quieter than all other gears. If very worn it can be noisy in neutral while idling with clutch up. 

 

In '85 the 56mm counter bearing was replaced with a 62mm one. This was continued into the '71C transmission that replaced the 71B.

Appreciate the info, both of those reasons are why I pulled the transmission. I could hear the release bearing when I used it, but I will double check the play and see if that's within fsm specs. 

 

And I could hear the counter shaft bearing in 1,2,3,5, it made a obvious ssss noise. When I took it apart it definitely didn't sound healthy, and neither did the input shaft bearing as well. It was a "might as well since I'm already in there" replacement.

[Anonymous Waffle]

Hot dog! It's almost been a year since I've updated this page... and really not too many updates on the maxima. Currently I'm in the USAF out in Missouri, so my maxima came along with me. I'll just picture dump for yall ✌️

 

 

 

 

 

 

My alternator finally took a shit, so I replaced it with my modified Isuzu NPR, worked like a charm! 

 

 

Crazy how different the maxy used to look. I'm at 257,000 miles right now on the rig 🤘

 

 

 

 

Edited September 23, 2023 by Anonymous Waffle

[Anonymous Waffle]

Just more pics throughout late 2022 to current of 2023!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[]2eDeYe]

Thanks for sharing, great looking car always like seeing it. 

[Anonymous Waffle]

Three years of owning the Maxima, and nearly 50,000 miles driven. Still love this damn car. 

 

Happy holidays and happy new year to all of y'all! Just going to do my normal photo dump of the maxy. Nothing new to it, still waiting for the right time to tear it apart for the planned turbo, 6 speed swap and gear change.. Soon, I promise that.. Soon.

 

 

 

 

First time I've seen snow actually falling from the sky.. I've only seen the aftermath of snowfall in my life lol.

 

 

 

 

 

Also I've bought another datsun project yet again.. This time, in the Z flavor 😉

 

[datzenmike]

Careful towing with rear wheels turning. Transmission counter gears are not splashing oil to lubricate the mainshaft bearings.

 

Great to see an LD engine Maxima!!! Now all you need is a turbo.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Never seen snow? WHere in CA are you?

[Anonymous Waffle]

1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Never seen snow? WHere in CA are you?

 

I'm from Sacramento, most we ever get is hail haha. And before that I lived in Okinawa and it definitely didnt snow there lol. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I'm not far from Sac, up near Auburn. We definitely get snow.

[Anonymous Waffle]

4 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I'm not far from Sac, up near Auburn. We definitely get snow.

It's very weird how the valley gets nothing, but not far away on the edge of the valley like Auburn itll snow lol.