Z24 with L20b head

[Beowulf]

Tried search and only found z22 swaps.  So that being said will it work and is it worth the effort. Still deciding if a v8 swap is worth the hassle and crappy handling.  Looking at a Z24 complete with 5speed for 150.00 bucks. Knowing there are a few aftermarket goodies for that motor. But again can you get enough extra power out of it to be worth the trouble without spending a fortune?  

[datzenmike]

About 1/2 way down this page and sporadically after.

I have it more or less together but never put it in as I have a really good low mileage L20B in right now.

 

I began by prepping an old throw away head as there's going to be 20% more air going through it.

The Z24 I bought from a wrecking yard that had crashed so I knew it ran. It was in an '84 but when pulled it had wrecking yard crayon on the flywheel saying '88 Hardbody. I had it in my 620 and it ran quiet and strong so I kept it when I got rid of the truck.

 

 

Z24 block and U67 L20B head. The compression would be about 9.5 but I carved out around the valves to un-shroud them and allow them to breath better so over 9 to 1 easy. Stock manifolds will work but I do have a home made intake and R-1 motorcycle carbs on my L20B and a cast iron L16 exhaust header that will work on this.

 

On mock up head.

[datzenmike]

Fill out your profile with the year of the 620 you have. You'll need to strip the front off your 4 speed and swap it onto the Z24 transmission.... unless you already have a 5 speed. Use the L20B engine mounting brackets to properly position the Z24 into the L series position.Otherwise it's basically a 2.4 liter L20B. I call mine an L24B as there already is an L24 six cylinder. This is why the L20B has a B on it because there is an L20 six cylinder already. To prevent confusion the 4 cylinder got a B on the end.

[Beowulf]

Are there any other modifications I need to do to the motor, different timing chain, guides and such.  Any one ever used offset keys for the am to advance timing?

thanks for your help datzenmike 

[datzenmike]

I used the Z24 timing chain guides as they are longer because the Z24 block is 2cm (3/4") taller.

 

Only thing was to add 4cm of extra chain to an L20B timing chain because it sits 2cm higher now. Again think of this as an  L series engine now. Cam timing is exactly the same with an L head. Why would you want (or need) to advance timing? cam timing? Nothing has changed, this is just a L20B that's 3/4" taller. 

 

The Z24 dip stick is on the right rear, or near the driver's right foot. It will be near the exhaust so rather than move it I will check the oil when cold. Which brings up the 710 oil pan I'm using. I did add some mods and haven't checked it for clearance. I'll just fill with oil and mark any new level on the old stick. Or shim the stick. Your 620 oil pan will be different that mine so...

 

The head gasket is a modified Z24. You can't use an L20B because the cylinder bore is way too small.

 

I used the Z24 timing cover rather than tying to weld an L20B cover 3/4" taller. I don't see why this won't work.

 

The Z24 block has a heater hose on the side of the block but now you have an L head with a heater outlet so one will need to be sealed.

[Charlie69]

Mike are you runnining a matchbox distributor?

[datzenmike]

Right now it's the L head on a Z24 with an 710 oil pan tarped up and put away. It will use my current EI matchbox, R-1 carbs and home made intake and an L16 cast iron header. These are all on my L20B at the moment. Haven't decided on the flywheel yet. I have 240mm and 225mm but I doubt I will run the 200mm that's on the car now with a L24 torque monster.