Cluster light sockets

[greenthumb]

Ditto

[greenthumb]

@mainer311

Did you ever have a chance to see if you could locate the link to those led bulbs?

thx

[mainer311]

19 hours ago, greenthumb said:

@mainer311

Did you ever have a chance to see if you could locate the link to those led bulbs?

thx

Sorry man, I looked high and low across all my usual avenues and couldn’t figure out where I got them from. I’ll see if I either have any extra, or pop one out and take a pic of them.

[greenthumb]

 Nice. Appreciate your efforts 

[Angela]

Hey guys, I've been struggling with this same issue. I just installed new white LED's I got from Amazon (verified fitment with Sylvania website for a Datsun 521). Let me just say it's a freaking BITCH of a job that is deceptively simple. Yes, there is a polarity sensitivity to deal with & trial & error seems to be required but there's also good contact issues on top of that, not much room to fiddle with it while cluster is still installed either. Anyhow, I looked through a few threads & found this old link that still works so maybe it'll be of help: 

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle/1970-nissan-521-pickup-vehicle-led-lights?make=55&model=222&year=1970

 

I got most of the lights to work after several attempts at orienting them correctly & trial/error but it's still not as bright & beautiful as Mainer's or dat521gatherer's (great job guys). I'll get at it again tomorrow & hopefully resolve it. I have a question though (please forgive the slight thread jack). Everything in my cluster works but my speedometer. The odometer turns, the fuel & temp gauges work but the speedometer needle doesn't even bounce...it's just dead. I've installed a new cable & it's properly lubricated. If anyone knows of a fix or source for fixes that might be helpful I'd appreciate it. I really want to make this cluster work 'cos I spent some $$$ on it cos it was supposedly new OEM with the odometer at 000009. I just rebuilt an L20B & wanted the mileage to match. Thx in advance.

Edited November 27, 2020 by Angela

[mainer311]

@greenthumb

 

Here’s what the lights look like and the packaging. Bottom line is that you want 194 bulbs, white, and something that has diodes in all directions.

 

 

Edited November 29, 2020 by mainer311

[mainer311]

I don’t think they make the ones I have anymore.

 

I did find these, which are similar. 
https://www.amazon.com/Bright-License-Lights-Interior-Courtesy/dp/B07QP5D7SG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=df+lighting+bright+194&qid=1606618399&sr=8-3

[greenthumb]

That’s great! Thanks for digging up that info. That link you provided seems to also have the 194 bulbs. Is that code for the brightness?

[mainer311]

36 minutes ago, greenthumb said:

That’s great! Thanks for digging up that info. That link you provided seems to also have the 194 bulbs. Is that code for the brightness?

194 is just the type. Look for highest lumens possible. 194 and 168 bulbs are the same, but have different brightness requirements. Most anything you’ll find on Amazon will work for both applications.

 

The weird part about our clusters is that light not only comes out the front, it also projects down from baffles. That’s why it’s important to pick a bulb that has diodes all over. The ones with diodes just facing forward won’t work as well. 

[greenthumb]

Roger that

[Crashtd420]

13 hours ago, mainer311 said:

The weird part about our clusters is that light not only comes out the front, it also projects down from baffles. That’s why it’s important to pick a bulb that has diodes all over. The ones with diodes just facing forward won’t work as well. 

 

Damn didn't think about that....

I got the flatter type...

I guess I'll try them and see the difference.. worse case I have the type you recommended saved just incase..

Luckily these bulbs are cheap enough if I dont like the outcome....

[Charlie69]

The type with an LED facing out from the base should be fine for the bright, the turn, the oil, & the ign indicators lights.

 

Super Bright 194

Edited December 10, 2020 by Charlie69

[bilzbobaggins]

well duh huh.  I think all of mine are the kind that just face out.  That might explain a lot.  Guess I will be gluing my green domes back on. lol

[gene knight]

On 11/26/2020 at 11:15 PM, Angela said:

Hey guys, I've been struggling with this same issue. I just installed new white LED's I got from Amazon (verified fitment with Sylvania website for a Datsun 521). Let me just say it's a freaking BITCH of a job that is deceptively simple. Yes, there is a polarity sensitivity to deal with & trial & error seems to be required but there's also good contact issues on top of that, not much room to fiddle with it while cluster is still installed either. Anyhow, I looked through a few threads & found this old link that still works so maybe it'll be of help: 

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle/1970-nissan-521-pickup-vehicle-led-lights?make=55&model=222&year=1970

 

I got most of the lights to work after several attempts at orienting them correctly & trial/error but it's still not as bright & beautiful as Mainer's or dat521gatherer's (great job guys). I'll get at it again tomorrow & hopefully resolve it. I have a question though (please forgive the slight thread jack). Everything in my cluster works but my speedometer. The odometer turns, the fuel & temp gauges work but the speedometer needle doesn't even bounce...it's just dead. I've installed a new cable & it's properly lubricated. If anyone knows of a fix or source for fixes that might be helpful I'd appreciate it. I really want to make this cluster work 'cos I spent some $$$ on it cos it was supposedly new OEM with the odometer at 000009. I just rebuilt an L20B & wanted the mileage to match. Thx in advance.

i might have extra speedo cluster that turn freely