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Release The Kraken ...


Skib

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5 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

I had to check to see if this was a rifle.

 

This is my rifle, this is my gun.  One is for shooting the other is for fun.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I blame someone's poor time management and communication. 

 

Just glad its finally here though.

I can run my LS coils now and clean a lot of shit out of the engine bay. And not be running 40 year old engine management lol

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Got the MS mostly installed. Little bit more interior wiring to do.

The place I got it neglected to note that the tach output is not compatible with the 70-72 tachs, I was already eyeing a speed hut tach and GPS speedo so guess that settles that debate lol.

 

IMG_20210414_181945307.jpg

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Important notes for anyone that gets an MS from the same place I did.... 


They fail to mention (I had to inform them) that Megasquirts output for the tach will NOT work on 70-72 stock tachs.
Also the stock optical trigger wheel will not work for this, you will have to use the DIY autotune wheel... 

Which they offer with all the extras add ons like wiring it for launch control... but they fail to mention that its not an option... but required. 

 

So... now Im waiting for a new trigger wheel to show up. Got a base map set up at least...

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Not a ton I can do atm, waiting on a few things. So I made a heat shield for the brakes and boost controller solenoid.

 

The downpipe is wrapped and there is a turbo blanket on the hot side so it should do pretty good with heat.

 

 

 

IMG_20210416_150224186~2.jpg

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And got it fired up for the first time on the base tune. Work to do still but it fires up at least.
 

 

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Seems to struggle when revved. Like flooring an automatic with the brake on. That will be tuned out? Idles nice.

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Yeah it's just on a preloaded super base tune, so I haven't done any tuning on it yet. It deff needs the timing map overhauled and the fuel maps leaned out and worked on.

 

But it's a start lol

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Here is the base tune that was loaded on it.... Not real impressed...

and you can see how it runs in that video.

mQBJyfl.png

 

 

Messed with things some this morning and got it running a bit better.
Spent more time on it this evening and gonna load this one up and see how it goes.

0zQgl2V.png

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Looking good. Takes me back to my old turbo beetle. Can't wait til I can get my Microsquirt installed on my L18. 

 

Re ignition timing and AFRs. It's possible to run the AFRs a LOT leaner than that for better milage. I ran my bug at up to 17 AFR for cruising and had no dramas. You do need to add more timing (up to 5deg), especially as the revs rise. You can see that in the ignition map. The pay off is the car uses a LOT less fuel at cruising speeds and on the freeway. People are often afraid to go past 14.7 for fear of going lean but manufacturers will run up to 18 AFR on very light loads for economy. With EFI, we can easily allow for that and our plugs don't end up full of carbon. 

Beetle lean AFRs and IGN tables.png

Beetle lean FUEL table.png

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I used to freak when the a/f went above 14.7 but really there's little difference 1 point on either side. Originally I was at 9.6 when floored and revved up and swear I could see wisps of black behind me. Part throttle and cruise were all i the 13s or lower. Then the process of leaner and leaner jets. I had erroneously way oversized the jets and probably should have left them alone. I'm just below what they came with and will just hit 12.6 WOT and cruise at 14.7 at 45 MPH and in the 15s at highway speeds. Deceleration 16s 17s  sometimes bouncing off 21 but not staying there. This is only idle air mixture so not hot enough to hurt anything.

 

Ran very strong at 9.6 so richness did not hurt performance. Runs about as good at 12.6 but uses less gas.  

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9 hours ago, slowlearner said:

Looking good. Takes me back to my old turbo beetle. Can't wait til I can get my Microsquirt installed on my L18. 

 

Re ignition timing and AFRs. It's possible to run the AFRs a LOT leaner than that for better milage. I ran my bug at up to 17 AFR for cruising and had no dramas. You do need to add more timing (up to 5deg), especially as the revs rise. You can see that in the ignition map. The pay off is the car uses a LOT less fuel at cruising speeds and on the freeway. People are often afraid to go past 14.7 for fear of going lean but manufacturers will run up to 18 AFR on very light loads for economy. With EFI, we can easily allow for that and our plugs don't end up full of carbon. 

 

 

 Ill deff be going into those areas eventually. I have a lot to learn about using MS still.

But It would be rad to have a good power tune and if say I'm taking it on a longer trip just go load up the fuel saver tune and off ya go

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9 hours ago, datzenmike said:

I used to freak when the a/f went above 14.7 but really there's little difference 1 point on either side. Originally I was at 9.6 when floored and revved up and swear I could see wisps of black behind me. Part throttle and cruise were all i the 13s or lower. Then the process of leaner and leaner jets. I had erroneously way oversized the jets and probably should have left them alone. I'm just below what they came with and will just hit 12.6 WOT and cruise at 14.7 at 45 MPH and in the 15s at highway speeds. Deceleration 16s 17s  sometimes bouncing off 21 but not staying there. This is only idle air mixture so not hot enough to hurt anything.

 

Ran very strong at 9.6 so richness did not hurt performance. Runs about as good at 12.6 but uses less gas.  

 

I dread to think what your plugs looked like. 😨 What you're really saying is, NA motors only need AFRs of 12.6 at WOT. Any richer and you're just blowing fuel out the pipes. 

 

People have this weird perception that a lean tune is a bad thing. Truth being that engines can run fine on lean tunes as long as 1. they're not under heavy load (high heat), and 2. you don't allow them to pre-ignite. I mean think about it, diesels run super lean under light load and don't hole pistons. In fact, they run cooler. On a petrol engine, you just need more advance to prevent pre-ignition. At higher revs (and low load) you also need more throttle, because the engine is using more air, but you get used to that. The motor should also run cooler because of the extra air. The upside is that when you lean on the throttle a little, you get insta-boost.   

 

 

5 hours ago, Skib said:

 

 Ill deff be going into those areas eventually. I have a lot to learn about using MS still.

But It would be rad to have a good power tune and if say I'm taking it on a longer trip just go load up the fuel saver tune and off ya go

 

You don't need a "power tune" and a "fuel saver tune". The thing about EFI is you have the capability and resolution to get the tune right everywhere. You only need different tunes for different fuels.... unless you have a flex sensor. 😉

 

On a related note, @Skib if you check my tables, you'll notice mine start at 40kpa. Under 40 is just deceleration (and you can use fuel cut). I've got the most resolution between 40-100. This is because ideally you want the best, smoothest tuning in the "street driving" sections of the map. 40-90kpa is where that all happens really. My AFRs switch hard from 16 to 14.7 at 92kpa where boost begins to kick in. 

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The 9.6 and the later 12.6 is only full throttle. Anything less and it's much higher.

 

Diesels don't compress fuel and air so there is no chance for pre-ignition. The cylinder fires when the fuel is injected and in the case of a very lean 'mixture' the fuel and air only around the injector burns. The fuel is not spread through the combustion chamber. Just like a gasoline direct injection engine, the surrounding air does nothing.

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Made myself do some more body shit today lol

got a dog leg to patch and some more mud work and I can prime the whole thing at least.

 

TLmFKNU.jpg

 

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p1UnGCR.jpg

 

far less fucked up than the other side was at least...

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