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Carb recommendation


athoose

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My Hitachi is pretty done so I'm looking at getting a new carb. Currently, I've got an 1600, u67 head and u20 cam, but hope to swap in an L20 bottom end at some point. Will a 32/36 weber be a solid choice for the current motor and the future L20? Or is there something better to consider? I do like the idea of easy tuning and lower cost. Anti diesel and electric choke seem nice as well. 

 

 

If the weber is good, where do I get a "good one"? Though I'm not sure what makes one good at this point. 

 

Thanks! 

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U67 has nice size valves and ports but it drops your compression to 8.1 from the stock 8.5.

 

Yes a 32/36 is about as big as you would want to go for the L16 but will work on a later L20B as well. There are a lot of Chinese knock offs out there. I think Pierce Manifolds sells the real thing for under $300.

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Electric choke and idle cut solenoid.... that's it. Replace your inline fuel filter if you haven't in the last 3 years. I would also use lock-tite on the adapter bolts.

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On 10/22/2020 at 7:20 PM, athoose said:

Is this idle cut valve, part number 43928.060 correct for 32/36 dgv?

 

 

Screenshot_20201022-191521~2.png

Well I ordered it, as it was recommended by the salesman as the one I need. It won't fit in the current idle jet holder thread. Going back into posts here, it appears the DGV manual choke 5A doesn't accept an idle cut solinoid. Is that correct? 

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445581056_HPIM0296(2).JPG.25569aa71af6939d430c835e87b75606.JPGIt has to be a 32/36 DGEV

 

the main side idle jet will be BIGGER SIZEthan the 2nd side

 

DG5A uses the smaller size jet holder

 

 

I have a U67 L20 head with a DGV5A carb and it used to have RUN ON and ping going up hills with a load. For some reason it don't do it anymore. Only thing I can think what changed is I put a L20b distributor on the motor when the old dist was wearing out due to shaft wiggle(even with a Pertronix it was acting up cause of the wiggle.

Guess I got lucky it worked out.     I even had a 32/36 DGEV with the selinoid and on real hot days its still run on. I don't know if carb was just worn out but I have a 5A on there now.  Seems to be perfect right now

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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This is the hardware for attaching the carb. It seems kinda wacky and I'd like to do it right.

 

Two threaded rods that go on the passenger side and two studs that go on the driver's side. The two studs have smaller threads and nuts. There seems to be plenty of room in that area for larger nuts. 

 

Should I purchase four new studs to replace the threaded rod and the two supplied studs? Only two wave lock washers, included, that go on the rear of the carb? This is what the instructions kind of show. Should I add lock nuts or wave locks to the two front nuts? 

 

Thanks!

 

IMG_20201030_073101109~2.jpg

IMG_20201030_074731509~2.jpg

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athoose

the one suppled to you works but if overtighten will crack and have issues. Personally they should stop sell ing those

 

the tall one posted is the best but if you have a L20 it can hit the hit and dent it and flows better and solid.

I would also make extra gaskets while its out or make a cardboard out out in case you have to make extras gaskets( like a Die, example)

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Yeah, what Hainz said is true that on a L20 the tall adapter could cause clearance issues with the hood. I know Weber makes a low profile air cleaner so that may take care of it. I have a L18 so I have no problems. I used the gaskets that came with the adapter and sealed with Hylomar Blue and applied red Loctite to the bolts securing the carb to the adapter and have no problems with leaks.

 

I have a new extra I would let go for $35 shipped if you want it. I am just down the road in TN.

Edited by AlexDeLarge
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To secure the adapter to the intake use some kind of thread sealer. This will avoid it coming loose and then being over torqued by the frustrated owner. This is what causes most of the breakage.... constant re tightening of loose bolt/studs

 

Use the supplied hardware.

 

The one piece adapter is taller I think. Make sure air filter clears the hood.

 

 

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do the majority with you hands and really that's enough room to get a wrench in there or buy some harbor freight ones and cut them down

 

a L20 with all emission is even worse so your lucky still you have room. yours is clean(early model L motors)

 

 

i never seen that piece before bolted to the manifold you got there, Whats that for?

 

I used the Hitachi cable holder/puller and put it on the weber. Might have to added washers to get it right so the cable lays in at a better angle

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2 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

do the majority with you hands and really that's enough room to get a wrench in there or buy some harbor freight ones and cut them down

 

a L20 with all emission is even worse so your lucky still you have room. yours is clean(early model L motors)

 

 

i never seen that piece before bolted to the manifold you got there, Whats that for?

 

I used the Hitachi cable holder/puller and put it on the weber. Might have to added washers to get it right so the cable lays in at a better angle

That's just a piece that came with weber, was going to use it for return spring but I'll need to make one. 

 

Carb came with a redline filter, that looks like a KN, does this need to be oiled before running?

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