Jump to content

Brakes


Josh Hicks

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 16
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

 There's nothing that will bolt on. Mklotz70 sells a conversion kit for 521 to disc. You source the calipers and rotors I think. While impressive looking 300zx brakes it won't stop you any faster.

  • Like 2
Link to post

....and hubs. lol

 

As for stopping power.....depends a good bit on your rim size.  My kit is specifically designed to work with stock steel 14" rims.  If you're running big rims, bigger brakes will probably help.....and look better.  I know a guy that did 300zx brakes on his HB.  I don't recall what parts beebani's setup uses.

  • Like 2
Link to post

Stopping isn't all about the brake setup. It has a lot to do with the tires being used as well. Mike is right, 300ZX brakes won't stop a 521 any faster than 4WD D21 calipers will, it'll just require less effort from your leg. Roadster guys sometimes swap to 300ZX brakes, but it's expensive, and you have to worry about turbo vs. non-turbo versions. 

  • Like 1
Link to post

Silvermine are a bunch of jokers. Plus that kit above has no e-brake functionality. How do you pass inspection?

 

"The Aluminum caliper brackets are made of the highest grade of aircraft quality aluminum on the market T6061. These brackets are very light and extremely strong. They will never rust or corrode." 

 

Tell me more about how 6061 is the highest grade of aircraft aluminum and won't corrode. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
5 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

Silvermine are a bunch of jokers. Plus that kit above has no e-brake functionality. How do you pass inspection?

 

"The Aluminum caliper brackets are made of the highest grade of aircraft quality aluminum on the market T6061. These brackets are very light and extremely strong. They will never rust or corrode." 

 

Tell me more about how 6061 is the highest grade of aircraft aluminum and won't corrode. 

 

Spacecraft and ballistic missiles use 6061T6.  At least I did.

  • Like 1
Link to post

Saying it’s aircraft aluminum doesn’t mean shit. There are far better blends out there than 6061. For brakes it’s fine, but structurally it’s not “highest grade.” It’s about as generic as it comes, and oxidizes straight out of the mill. They all do.

 

 I’m just making fun of their marketing. 

Edited by mainer311
  • Like 2
Link to post

Aluminum 'rusts' or oxidizes immediately on contact with the air, but only a few atoms thick forming a protective layer, unlike iron that keeps rusting. It's like saying something is made out of surgical stainless steel because it sounds impressive. There are many grades of SS and what is used for surgery may not be good for what you want it for.

  • Like 1
Link to post
19 hours ago, mainer311 said:

Silvermine are a bunch of jokers. Plus that kit above has no e-brake functionality. How do you pass inspection?

 

Most western states don't have safety inspections. Even though I am in the business, I kind of wish we did have them. I've seen some scary shit driving around.

 

And since I am not 20 anymore, a parking brake is important to me. Not something I would give up.

Link to post
  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, Eomund said:

Am I the only one fine with the stock brakes?

 

Sometimes, it's not really about how fast you can stop, it's about how fast the guy in front of you stops.  New technology can stop a good bit quicker than 40+ year old tech.  It's also about not having to adjust them.  Not losing them after going through a puddle...you're in So Cal, so I doubt that's a worry for you.....here in Portland Oregon....different story. lol   You drive it 120mi/day with stock brakes.....that's pretty cool......but you might want to start collecting front end parts. :)

Link to post
2 hours ago, mklotz70 said:

 

Sometimes, it's not really about how fast you can stop, it's about how fast the guy in front of you stops.  New technology can stop a good bit quicker than 40+ year old tech.  It's also about not having to adjust them.  Not losing them after going through a puddle...you're in So Cal, so I doubt that's a worry for you.....here in Portland Oregon....different story. lol   You drive it 120mi/day with stock brakes.....that's pretty cool......but you might want to start collecting front end parts. 🙂

Drum brakes, if maintained, can stop as quick as disk, as long as you aren't riding the brakes and heating them up. They do get fade worse, agreed. But I'm not racing it.

 

I have new drums and equipment all around. And can lock my brakes up just as easily as if they had disk. That includes in the wet. And I have good rubber on them too. She stops good, believe me.

 

I do get the adjustment comment. That is a bit of a chore. I don't know what datsun (nissan) was thinking. Auto adjust tech had been out a loooong time already.

  • Like 1
Link to post

It's been my experience that water, certainly deep water where the discs are submerged will not work just the same as shoes ... however they self clean and in one or two truck lengths they come back. Perhaps this is because the rotor is vertical and shed water better and the pads are like wiper blades. Drums will hold water in but may be better for splash resistance.  Good luck doing this with all drums.

  • Like 1
Link to post

Good working drums are fine. Very, very few people actually keep up on their drums to keep them working right. lol   Locking up the brakes isn't the fastest way to stop. Drums can be hard to modulate. Discs are much easier.......but in a panic stop, everyone is pretty much just going to lock up their brakes and hope the tires do their job. lol  Drums actually have an advantage over discs.  There's far more pad material in contact with the drum and it's out at the furthest distance from the spindle.  A 10" drum does all it's work at roughly a 10" diameter.  The disc brakes have a 10" rotor, but the braking surface runs inward from 10" to about 8".  Basically, the disc brakes will take more leg effort for normal braking.

 

There is also something to be said about having drums to match the nostalgia of the truck.  If you want the feel and experience of a '72 Datsun, stock is the only way to get that.  Once you upgrade to ball joints and/or discs, you get the feeling of a completely different truck.  A lot of guys want that "drives like a newer truck" feeling, but still want the looks of the older rig.  To each their own, they say. :)  

  • Like 2
Link to post

Drums are a lot of bother to work on and on top of that, like said, they need attention. At least every 3-4 months, if in constant use, the adjustment should be checked.  The self adjusting rear brakes were introduced about half way through the '82 model year 720. 

  • Like 1
Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.