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Electric Datsun conversion??


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"estimated pricing is in the $25,000–$35,000 range for the crate motor package itself, meaning that your budget will have to stretch to include the associated motor controllers, batteries, and hardware."

 

Probably another $25,000. 

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The White Zombie had at one point $100,000+ in Batteries and I can't remember how much he had in that double motor he had specially made, it was some ridiculous amount, I know it was more than that place is asking for that 500hp motor assembly, but it was a custom motor that will turn less than 10 second 1/4 miles, but he didn't want to go faster than 10 seconds because different rules apply to vehicles that run faster than 10 second 1/4 miles that he didn't want to deal with, he was very happy with 10.08 seconds as I recall, maybe it was 10.03, I don't know for sure anymore, it was fast, I had a Nova that would do 13.something, funnest car I ever owned as a kid.

Edited by wayno
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2 hours ago, wayno said:

 I had a Nova that would do 13.something, funnest car I ever owned as a kid.

#metoo

Mine was a 73, 302 double hump heads, eldebrock manifold (I think it was a midrise, it was as high as you could go without cutting the hood),Holly 750 double pump, (sounded like a toilet flushing when you hit it) Hooker headers, aggressive cam. The serious speed parts:  engine chrome kit to include driveline, brake drums, and hood hinges, Enkei wheels, low profile fat tires, fender flares front and back, diamond tuck interior, NOVA etched on the windshield and on and on. I was16, full time dishwasher, high school night classes. Every penny went in that car, if the carb got out of adjustment at all, it would flood and stall. There was a 4 mile loop, that kids cruised and paired off to street race on the weekends. Eventually, I threw a rod while racing, the block was salvageable, got it operational again, sold it at a substantial loss and left for basic training.

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Mine was a 1965 Nova SS, it had a 350 strip engine in it with a Muncie 4spd, you could not stand behind it long breathing that exhaust, it was terrible, it got maybe 7 miles to the gallon.

It had headers and a 750 double pumper with 850 jets sitting on top of a torquer manifold, I never flooded it but it sure started easy in the winter, I believe it had at least a 12 to 1 compression ratio and where ever your foot was was how fast you were going, no matter how steep the hill was going up or down the hill your foot had to be that deep into the pedal to go that speed, when it was raining out I had to let off the pedal slowly or the rear wheels would quit turning, same when speeding up, slowly push the pedal when wet outside, I could leave anything behind when entering the freeway.

When going an even speed it kinda jerked forward and backward, kinda like the drive line or ring and pinion were sloppy, I also had to warn anyone that rode with me to plant their feet on the floorboard as when I let off the pedal when it was dry out it was like I slammed on the brakes and they would lift up out of the seat unless they were expecting it, I had 10" rear shackles with hi-jacker air shocks with 3 inch extensions, so we were kinda leaning forward anyway, it kinda looked like a funny car.

For the fun of it one night when I was cruising the gut down town I put my spare tire against a post and then put the bumper against the tire, I then let out the clutch in 1st gear at about 1200/1300rpms, then I let off the pedal slowly, got out and we watched my car burn out in the Dairy Queen parking lot with no one in it, it was idling away for a while but the police were always driving by so I got back in and parked in a parking spot, my car was famous.

My car was not that pretty but it went fast, that engine destroyed that uni-body car, it creaked everywhere when I shifted gears, especially the doors, sometimes when I shifted too hard the wipers would come on and since they were in the off position I figured out to shift hard again and they would stop, I have no idea why they did that to this day.

It was a fun car but shit got broke all the time the way I drove it, I only lost one race down on lower river road to a 1964 or 65 Malibu and the guy would not lift his hood to see what he had in it, I left him off the line but he caught up with me just before crossing the line, I never raced it again, I turned the driveline out from under the car once power braking, it broke both U-joint ends, easy fix after towing it home with a rope.

 

Edited by wayno
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Super cool!

 

It's crazy how cheap all the parts and cars are getting.  I almost pulled the trigger on a used Model S.  It's a 2016 fully loaded P110D with ludicrous mode on the Telsa site with a warrenty for a car that runs 10's in the quarter mile for 61k!  But for some reason I like my loud as fuck turbo Datsun's.....  I'd rather have a fleet of junk that once nice car.  

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2 hours ago, Icehouse said:

It's a 2016 fully loaded P110D with ludicrous mode on the Telsa site with a warrenty for a car that runs 10's in the quarter mile for 61k! 

 

Wow, cheap is relative, I paid much less than that for my house. It would be paid off, if I hadn't refinanced a couple of times, but it is the most expensive thing I have ever owned. I can't even imagine buying a 61k car.

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55 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

61k for a car?

my house was 78K

 

my 521 was 700$ and just fine with that.

 

I'll give you 80k right now for your house! 

 

Yeah I just end up driving my beater datsuns.  Which a Tacoma kid just sold a stock 4 door 510 for 10k so maybe a beater Datsun isn't really driving a cheap car anymore.  

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3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

House  paid off brother!!!!!!!!!!!!!  80K??? Joe sBiden is going to give first time home owners 80K. so house will now be 160 for you!!!!!

since I told you my house paid off I hope you and Frank don't charge me more for parts now.

 

Not sure there is a house in pierce, king or Snohomish county for only 160k.  I'm writing in Hainz for president.  

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1 hour ago, Mattndew76 said:

https://orbisdriven.com/our-technology/
 

this is a much better option. 
 

less on the wallet too.

 

Very cool. I designed something similar for a hydraulic motor, instead of electric, 20 or so years ago, it was another calculated error. Stored hydraulic energy can be accessed more efficiently than electric and no batteries to degrade. I thought hydraulic hybrids were going to be the next big thing. UPS trucks and a few other places adopted the technology, but electric won the popularity war and parts dropped in price, more people purchased, electric continued to drop in price...etc...etc. Hydraulic components remain expensive. I still think about hydraulic technology, hydraulic launch assist, and hydraulic front wheel drive hubs, for on demand 4wd are intriguing,  but refocused and simplified to get more projects into the finished column.

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16 hours ago, wayno said:

Mine was a 1965 Nova SS, it had a 350 strip engine in it with a Muncie 4spd, you could not stand behind it long breathing that exhaust, it was terrible, it got maybe 7 miles to the gallon.

 

The shoebox Novas were the best. I wanted one, but got a deal on mine, it came with most of the "pimp" stuff. I would not have indulged in such things, but admit it really grew on me.

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9 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

How do you store hydraulic pressure??? It's not compressible like air.

https://scholarworks.iupui.edu/bitstream/handle/1805/7396/Vaezi_2014_energy.pdf;jsessionid=5C469370C057A85E3960091AFC2255B6?sequence=1

 

Accumulators are simple devices that are constructed of a piston, a cylindrical sleeve, and two end caps. The piston is free to move through the entire length of the cylinder sleeve, similar to a rod-less piston in a hydraulic actuator. Pressure from the aircraft hydraulic system enters the fluid side and forces the piston toward the pneumatic end of the cylinder. As the piston is forced away from the fluid end, it compresses the trapped gas on the pneumatic side. When the pressures equalize, the piston stops moving and the accumulator is now storing a predetermined amount of pressurized fluid. A check valve from the pressure supply, and selector/shut-off valves keep the pressurized fluid trapped until it is needed to perform work. The main physical principles at work here are the theoretical incompressibility of one fluid (hydraulic oil) and the highly compressible nature of another fluid nitrogen.

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54 minutes ago, frankendat said:

 

Very cool. I designed something similar for a hydraulic motor, instead of electric, 20 or so years ago, it was another calculated error. Stored hydraulic energy can be accessed more efficiently than electric and no batteries to degrade. I thought hydraulic hybrids were going to be the next big thing. UPS trucks and a few other places adopted the technology, but electric won the popularity war and parts dropped in price, more people purchased, electric continued to drop in price...etc...etc. Hydraulic components remain expensive. I still think about hydraulic technology, hydraulic launch assist, and hydraulic front wheel drive hubs, for on demand 4wd are intriguing,  but refocused and simplified to get more projects into the finished column.


Ive seen a full hydro rock crawler that was able to do 90mph on the I-5

 

one of the coolest 4WD jeeps I’ve ever seen. No transmission at all. 4cyl mated to a hydro pump

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That jeep had a full writeup on the internet, years ago. I am fairly certain there aren't two of them. A hydraulic pump/motor as a transmission for infinite gear ratios is slick. However, the cost of hydraulic pump/motors to achieve that level of performance is prohibitive (keeping in mind, the rising cost of most things, surprises me). Also, from my research and a couple summers working on farm, high pressure hydraulic equipment eventually leaks.As I mentioned a post or two back, the goal now is to get the vehicle operational. Hydraulic launch assist, and hydraulic suspension, even though I have amassed most of the components, takes a backseat.

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I've been looking at the Orbis Kit since they came out publicly. 

 

Been talking with Kyle at KMC about this hypothetical build with him since we both seen the setup. Honda K24 power to the rear axle and Orbis hubs up front on a 1200 coupe. 

 

https://www.instagram.com/kckuhnhausen/

 

I am looking at ways to fund raise or sponsors for a car budget this big. SEMA type build.

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I don't have any photos of that era of my life, I do not have one photo of my 1965 Nova, I just have a several moments burned into my memory, standing behind the car while it was idling and barely being able to breath, watching it idling against the pole in first gear while no one was in it, turning the drive line out from under the car and how much the back dropped when it happened, literally speeding away from a car full of scabs that were chasing me, turning around and getting back to the strike line when they finally caught up with me and seeing all the base ball bats and such stuff that suddenly appeared, going up a hill when it was wet outside and having the back end start coming around and letting off the pedal to much and having the back end keep coming around, and that stupid 3500lb pressure plate I bought and having to drive the car without a clutch for a long time, at that time it had a BW T10 4spd in it, that transmission was indestructible, and losing that one race to that sleeper Malibu.

I also seen some fast street cars in that time of my life, the fastest I ever seen was a VW bug, I never seen anything do the 1/8th mile so fast, I knew better than to race that car, it had a club sticker on it that said "Portland Drag Club",  nothing in that time of my life benefited me in my future to come though, I am lucky I survived it, that car was scary fast, 13 second 1/4 miles was just a guess my passenger made while he held on, funny thing I just thought of, I also always had a passenger in my car during the races, I was indestructible.

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