B210 inquiries and suggestions

[jboulukos]

I’m going to list by number some issues or questions related to the current performance of my B210. Please feel free to reply. 
 

1. I have never had illumination from my original Clarion AM radio nor my ventilation/heating selections. Do you guys know if these areas are meant to illuminate or if they even have lighting/bulbs to be replaced. I checked the manual but could not find anything. Photo posted of instrument cluster from the manual. 

2. The cover on top of the cylinder head seems to be leaking oil. I can see some oil residue on the front cover and shininess on the cylinder head near the front passenger side.   I have changed the gasket in the past and recall it as being made from cork. Should I replace with cork gasket? Or?  Photo attached. 

3. The car is having beginning of the day starting issues.  Starter was replaced a few years back and seems fine.  Ever since I changed the fuel pump to an aftermarket, cheap looking gold thing, the starting hasn’t been the same and seems to be getting worse. I recently checked the fuel line leading to the carb and there was no gas in there. Is it possible the aftermarket fuel pump has a crappy one way valve leading up to the carb? I have a new Kyosan Denki original style fuel pump that I want to put in to see if it helps this starting issue.  Thoughts? Photo of current fuel pump posted 

 

4. What engine oil do you recommend? 

Edited September 24, 2020 by jboulukos

[datzenmike]

2 hours ago, jboulukos said:

I’m going to list by number some issues or questions related to the current performance of my B210. Please feel free to reply. 
 

1. I have never had illumination from my original Clarion AM radio nor my ventilation/heating selections. Do you guys know if these areas are meant to illuminate or if they even have lighting/bulbs to be replaced. I checked the manual but could not find anything. Photo posted of instrument cluster from the manual. 

2. The cover on top of the cylinder head seems to be leaking oil. I can see some oil residue on the front cover and shininess on the cylinder head near the front passenger side.   I have changed the gasket in the past and recall it as being made from cork. Should I replace with cork gasket? Or?  Photo attached. 

3. The car is having beginning of the day starting issues.  Starter was replaced a few years back and seems fine.  Ever since I changed the fuel pump to an aftermarket, cheap looking gold thing, the starting hasn’t been the same and seems to be getting worse. I recently checked the fuel line leading to the carb and there was no gas in there. Is it possible the aftermarket fuel pump has a crappy one way valve leading up to the carb? I have a new Kyosan Denki original style fuel pump that I want to put in to see if it helps this starting issue.  Thoughts? Photo of current fuel pump posted 

 

4. What engine oil do you recommend? 

 

 

 

 

1/ If the radio works I think the light should come on when you turn it on so bulb burned out. If radio does not work check the fuse.

 

2/ Cork gaskets are fine and what Nissan used originally. However over tightening of the valve cover bolts can distort the valve cover and it won't seal properly. Use a short straight edge and a hammer and dolly and try to flatten out any dimpling around the bolt holes.

 

3/ The carburetor has a float chamber that holds 1/3 to 1/2 cup of gas. Many times more than what would be needed to start the car with. You could remove the pump and the car should still start. Take the top off the air filter and look. The primary barrel has a choke clap and when cold it should be about 1/2 closed. This is not an EFI engine and has a choke that needs the gas pedal stepped on to engage the it. In colder weather maybe 2 or even 3 pumps of the gas pedal. If you are not doing this then try it. Have someone step on the gas pedal and release. You should see the choke flap snap fully closed. Does it????

 

4/ I used 10w30 in my new '67 B-210 and Ontario winters can't be much different that Chicago. 10w30 is good to about -10 F and up to 100F. 5W30 is ok to use as long as the temperature does not go above freezing. When severely cold even with a new battery, often it would only turn 2-3 times and stop. Battery and/ or starters may be too small for severe weather. What I did was install a block heater. You can leave plugged in all night or on a timer for 2-3 hours before you need it. The other thing was a electric blanket made for the battery. You have to plug in the block heater anyway so why not keep the battery warm also. Battery charge is less with a cold battery. At work I would warm it up at noon so it was sure to start that night. Eventually I got an extension cord and plugged it in at work too.

[jboulukos]

Thanks as always for the clarification. 
 

1. radio works, no light = I’ll replace bulb at some point. ✅
2. ordered a cork gasket From Napa, getting today. $6.50 US ✅

3. didn’t do the choke flap inspection yet this morning however I looked at the carb float and the gas was about 20% full, just enough to see the lower 20% of the window full with gas. The start was tough again.  I will look at the choke flap soon.  Could a loose carb base be any issue with this? I frequently find I need to tighten the 4 nuts at the base due to being slightly loose.  I imagine that would be more of a vacuum leak issue though. 
4. I’m going to do 10W30 next week ✅

 

[jboulukos]

On 9/24/2020 at 2:33 PM, datzenmike said:

 

1/ If the radio works I think the light should come on when you turn it on so bulb burned out. If radio does not work check the fuse.

 

2/ Cork gaskets are fine and what Nissan used originally. However over tightening of the valve cover bolts can distort the valve cover and it won't seal properly. Use a short straight edge and a hammer and dolly and try to flatten out any dimpling around the bolt holes.

 

3/ The carburetor has a float chamber that holds 1/3 to 1/2 cup of gas. Many times more than what would be needed to start the car with. You could remove the pump and the car should still start. Take the top off the air filter and look. The primary barrel has a choke clap and when cold it should be about 1/2 closed. This is not an EFI engine and has a choke that needs the gas pedal stepped on to engage the it. In colder weather maybe 2 or even 3 pumps of the gas pedal. If you are not doing this then try it. Have someone step on the gas pedal and release. You should see the choke flap snap fully closed. Does it????

 

4/ I used 10w30 in my new '67 B-210 and Ontario winters can't be much different that Chicago. 10w30 is good to about -10 F and up to 100F. 5W30 is ok to use as long as the temperature does not go above freezing. When severely cold even with a new battery, often it would only turn 2-3 times and stop. Battery and/ or starters may be too small for severe weather. What I did was install a block heater. You can leave plugged in all night or on a timer for 2-3 hours before you need it. The other thing was a electric blanket made for the battery. You have to plug in the block heater anyway so why not keep the battery warm also. Battery charge is less with a cold battery. At work I would warm it up at noon so it was sure to start that night. Eventually I got an extension cord and plugged it in at work too.

I had a chance to look in the carb as someone pressed the pedal 3 times and attempted to start the car. This was the first start of the day, and the temperature was 60-65 degrees so it was nice outside and not cold. At rest, the carb flap which is on the left side , was half way open. While looking at the carb, although I heard the 3 pedal presses, I did not see the top flat on the left side move. Nor did the flap move during the start.  I eventually got it started within 20 seconds and tapping the pedal. Once started I need to continue to press the pedal or the engine wants to stop. After 10 more seconds of pressing the pedal, the engine idles without wanting to stop. Any thoughts. Do I need to make a carb adjustment? 

[MikeRL411]

When I lived in Great Falls Montana the over night temperature would drop to minus 30 or 40 degrees F.  I had only an open carport.  I bought an external tank heater [300 Watt], replaced the engine block drain hole bolt with an adapter.  I piped the engine block to the external heater inlet and the heater outlet to a "Y" connector in the car heater which was left "On".  I mounted the external heater just below the battery to take advantage of the waste heat from the body of the heater.  Plugged the whole mess in all night [took no chances there].  Never failed to start on first crank all winter.  I would shovel out the driveway, unplug the heater and drive a warm car to work.

[datzenmike]

The electric choke may just need adjusting richer. Find this thing on the back side of the carburetor...

 

 

On a cold engine...

Loosen the 3 hold down screws, hold the throttle slightly open and turn the choke heater to the left (RICH) and you should see the choke flap close all the way. If it does pump the gas ones and take foot ooff and try starting.

 

If the choke refuses to close, carefully remove the 3 screws and remove the choke heater. Under it is a coil with a J shaped hook on the end that engages the choke shaft so when the heater is turned the shaft is levered closed. Once apart it will be obvious to you. Correctly set, turning the choke heater back and forth will close and open the choke plate. Behind the coil is an electric heater which warms the coil and it expands and unwinds slowly allowing the choke to open.

 

 

 

Now it's also possible that the choke plate linkage is simply dirty and sticky. I just spray the back of the carburetor with all it's linkages a with WD-40 (or carburetor cleaner) and move all the linkages to loosen them. Hold the throttle part open to release the fast idle cam.

 

[jboulukos]

I followed the directions. Great outcome. My initial carb choke setting was turned to the lean side.

Turned to the rich side, touching the gas a bit, made the choke flat drop flat. The car started so fast I barely heard the starter.

 

But then I decided it was too rich because of the smell of the exhaust (correct?), and it didn’t rev well.  

 

Turned it back towards lean side slightly.  Seems to start, idle and rev great. I haven’t driven it yet though.  How is this adjustment best determined to be precise?  Just going by car performance? Smell? Starting quality? Idle quality? Is it trial and error to find the sweet spot?  

[jboulukos]

Also, where to get this cotton type filter material? 

[jboulukos]

sorry the photo loaded sideways from the original. This is the last adjustment I made. It’s slightly into the lean side (past 12 o’clock) but not nearly as lean as it was originally set to. 

[KELMO]

That filter in the air cleaner housing is a 16565-U6700. Came up NLA through Nissan.

It seems to me that these were used all the way up to early 80's model Sentra.

[datzenmike]

The choke forces a rich condition so you WILL smell gas while it is on. This is totally normal and goes away when the engine warms and the choke shuts off.

 

When the choke is on there is a linkage that lifts a fast idle cam into position that holds the throttle open slightly. It will look something like this...

 

 

 

The cam has incremental 'steps' that lower the fast idle as the choke slowly turns off. Find this and it's linkages, hold the throttle part open so it is free to move and spray with WD-40 or carburetor cleaner and work the linkages back and forth to free them. With the throttle part open closing the choke should allow the attached linkage to drop and rotate the cam into place.

 

On really cold days the fast idle can seem excessive but it is only 1,800 to 2,200 RPM. Only if you have an automatic, blip the throttle lightly and the fast idle will reduce so it's less of a shock placing in drive. The purpose of the fast idle is to speed the warm up of the engine and it makes driving it much better.

[jboulukos]

2 hours ago, KELMO said:

That filter in the air cleaner housing is a 16565-U6700. Came up NLA through Nissan.

It seems to me that these were used all the way up to early 80's model Sentra.

Great info. What does NLA stand for? 

[jboulukos]

Car starts and runs well.  Took it around town, 25-50mph.  I was cruising at about 37mph and noticed it starting to lose power, not run steady, hesitating slightly. Then I waiting a minute or so to make a left hand turn and noticed it was losing power when I tried to accelerate from a stopped position. Same issue I had been having the previous week. Turned off the car and started it and everything was fine driving home 4 miles. Not sure what’s going on.  Debris floating around in the carb, blocking a jet at random times?  I still have to spray the linkage. 

[datzenmike]

Replace the fuel filter. Should be done every 3 years so probably due. They are cheap and definitely no harm done if it doesn't help.

 

Carburetor spray will clean but WD-40 is mostly Xylene a hydrocarbon solvent used mostly for it's smell. It also contains some mineral oil that also lubricates slightly.

[jboulukos]

4 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Replace the fuel filter. Should be done every 3 years so probably due. They are cheap and definitely no harm done if it doesn't help.

 

Carburetor spray will clean but WD-40 is mostly Xylene a hydrocarbon solvent used mostly for it's smell. It also contains some mineral oil that also lubricates slightly.

Fuel filter was changed last week.  I’ve done about 190 miles and hesitation is more and more rare although happened today for the first time in 3-4 days.

I sprayed the carb cleaner on the linkage.  I’ll hit it with the Wd-40 tomorrow.  
Also I am wondering about the suspension.  I have had the car since 2009 and not certain when the shocks/struts were changed.  Are there any recommended struts/shocks that I can grab on rockauto or any recommended brands. A mechanic recommended the brand Sachs.  Do I need to inspect the leaf springs? Are they ever an issue.  Again, nothing has been done to the suspension since I’ve obtained it in 2009 and has been driven about 30,000 miles since that time. 

[datzenmike]

Could just need to be driven. That would be the easiest course and see what happens in the next week. Spark plugs are self cleaning if driven long enough. You have NGK likke the ones that Nissan put in there when they built it? How are the wires, cap and rotor? Once a year I thoroughly wipe the wires down with a rag sprayed with WD-40. It removes oil and dirt and makes them look new. At the same time I can inspect them for damage. 

 

Springs don't wear out but shocks certainly do. The rears are ordinary shock absorbers you can get anywhere. Spend what ever you like. Front struts are hollow and oil filled immersing the shock and the valving inside. There are two ways to go here, equally the same amount of work...

 

1/ Empty out the oil and replace the shock with a self contained insert. It's hard to find B-210 inserts today, maybe they never made them. A shorter one from something else will work if you stack the length difference with washers in the bottom of the strut tube. The down side is this will be a shock designed for a totally different vehicle or universal 'one size fits all'. Probably $100 hopefully for a pair. 

2/ Empty out the very thin watery hydraulic oil and simply replace with thicker viscosity motorcycle fork oil. This is what I did. I tried a 1 liter bottle (enough for 3 struts) of 20w BellRay motorcycle fork oil but at the same time I increased the spring rate making them stiffer. Cost was $17 Canadian. Car was also lowered thus you need a stiffer spring to prevent bottoming out. It's firm and well damped. I had a second 710 automatic that my wife used to drive. For it I used ATF (automatic transmission fluid) there's no viscosity standard for ATF,  it's between 7 and 12 w. 

 

[jboulukos]

-Plugs are NGK

-new plugs/rotor/wires 6/2016 and less than 2500 miles

I found some rear shock absorbers on rockauto. $28 each...don’t know this brand though. 

 

they also had front struts for the B210. Any thoughts on these? 

[KELMO]

14 hours ago, jboulukos said:

Great info. What does NLA stand for? 

No Longer Available

[datzenmike]

Don't always go for the cheapest shock absorber.

[jboulukos]

Started rough again this morning. White smoke and engine would die when gas lightly pressed in park. Idled fasted than usual, due to choke adjustment. White smoke and dripping of some fluid coming from tailpipe. Warmed up and started to idle better. Starts right up after it is warm. Help.  

[jboulukos]

Drove nice after warming up. No significant white smoke.  Radiator full of coolant. 
Oil change scheduled for Wednesday. 

[jboulukos]

Car start still remains poor, as if it is about to start but then stops, require 6-12 attempts that get closer and closer to initiating the engine, then requires repetitive presses of the gas pedal to stay running for the first 10 seconds.  It’s 60 degrees, not cold. I had an oil change today and drove about 60 miles.  Then drove again and within 1 mile was losing power again.  Pulled over, started up the engine and drove a few blocks and the loss of power issue stopped. 
Should I check compression?  I still think I must not have the carburetor adjustments dialed in.  If I had poor compression, would the car run well at certain times then lose power at other times?  

history: 

-oil change today

-great working NOS Kyosan Denki fuel pump

-new fuel filter and new fuel 

-may 2016: new head gasket, exhaust/intake manifold gasket, water outlet gasket, thermostat, new spark plugs/rotor/wires, carb/starter/alternator rebuilt
 

It’s been since 2016 for compression testing. When I changed the cylinder head gasket, I did not have the head milled.  Since that time I haven’t had any issues with coolant loss.  There seems to be a small amount of oil on the passenger side of the cylinder head above the gasket near the ledge area between the first and second spark plug. I have replaced the valve cover gasket 3 days ago. Not sure if that was the issue because the old gasket looked ok and wasn’t more than 6 years old.  Can oil sometimes leak out of the spark plug hole or at the junction of the valve cover and cylinder head?  Not sure if that small leak is related to the loss of power. I still think it’s the carburetor.  I recently adjusted the choke and thought it was all set but then the next cold start went poorly again.   Would adjusting the idle help the loss of power?  Maybe I should return to the choke and readjust. When the car is running, it sounds as though it could be more smooth even when there isn’t the loss of power.  Am I on the right track? 

Edited October 1, 2020 by jboulukos

[afracer]

Check for vacuum leaks at the distributor and choke pull off. The diaphragms on them degrade and split over time. I just bought a 85k mile 210 and both vacuum advance canister and choke pull off were leaking vacuum and inoperable.

[jboulukos]

8 hours ago, afracer said:

Check for vacuum leaks at the distributor and choke pull off. The diaphragms on them degrade and split over time. I just bought a 85k mile 210 and both vacuum advance canister and choke pull off were leaking vacuum and inoperable.

 

Regarding the diaphragms, are you taking about the carb...the saucer looking things?  How can I test them? if they are shot, can I replace them with diaphragms from an extra carb?  Thanks for the direction.

[afracer]

Yes you can swap it or buy new online. Disconnect the hose and suck on it. If air leaks thru it when you suck you'll know. If you suck and there's no air leak you'll not feel air escaping. While you suck on the hose going to the saucer thing you should also see the choke flap move. The other saucer is the one on the distributor, test is identical.