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Wiring for Datsun B210 electronic ignition distributor replacement

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Replacing distributor with an electronic ignition distributor. I'm getting no spark. I have the red wire from the distributor connected to the resistor black/white wire side (the side not connected directly to the coil), then the green wire connected to the negative side of the coil. No power to distributor. The new distributor works with my other b210. Not sure what could be the issue. The wiring between my two B210's are a little different, so not sure the issue. 

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Black/white wire should have 12volts with key on. you will hook the B I believe to this connection.

C on dist goes to minus side coil

if no 12volt to the blk white wire check the fuse or key switch connection

 

now if this was point distributor car there is a hot start wire also which bypasses the ballast resistor. To find this I disconnect the starter selinoid and put the key to Start and find it. Now I haven’t done this myself one can take the Hot start wire and hook it up to the black white wire but this is if you use a newer Ei coil. Minus the ballast.

if using a stock point coil just leave it wired the way it is.

B )hooks up to the blk/white wire

C )you will make a wire to minus side coil


in the how to section has wire schematics 

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You can run the EI on a points coil but you don't get the advantage of the higher output just the elimination of the points. For best results get any Datsun/Nissan coil from any '78 and up car or truck and get rid of the points coil and ballast. Wire it like this...

 

The EI coil is 0.75-1.0 ohms. It will draw more current through it and produce a hotter spark.

ZOkbBht.jpg

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On 9/7/2020 at 8:38 PM, datzenmike said:

You can run the EI on a points coil but you don't get the advantage of the higher output just the elimination of the points. For best results get any Datsun/Nissan coil from any '78 and up car or truck and get rid of the points coil and ballast. Wire it like this...

 

The EI coil is 0.75-1.0 ohms. It will draw more current through it and produce a hotter spark.

ZOkbBht.jpg

Thanks again Datzenmike. Is there an issue using a pertronix flame thrower coil and if so, I don't really understand the ohms and how it affects things. Which would you recommend?

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 this would have helped what coil you have in there.

 

the Pertronix coil is 3 ohm which makes less of a spark for a Matchbox ,   BUT  Im sure it will work  in there  might be harder to start in winter since its a 3 ohm coil

 

eZist thing is buy a 79 EI coil and use the above drawing to get MOST spark out of this set up. Otherwise using the 3 ohm is like running the stock point coil with a ballast that was orginal with the car, spark power wise  but youll get the reliability of the electronic trigger from the distributor

 

 

Edited by banzai510(hainz)

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There are 3 options all will work to different degrees.

 

1/ Run your stock coil and ballast. Total coil and ballast resistance about 3 ohms. Same output as with points

2/ Run a Pertronix 'Flame thrower' coil without the ballast. Total resistance about 3 ohms. Same output as 1/ maybe small increase designed in, who knows.

3/ Run an EI coil with a resistance of 0.7 to 1.0 ohms. This will allow way more current to flow through the system making a stronger magnetic field and resulting in a stronger spark.

 

As per Ohm's Law i (current) = e (voltage) over r (resistance) so for the coil with ballast or the flamethrower coil, (both 3 ohms) current = 12/3 or 4 amps

 

For the EI coil, current = 12 / 1 (ohm) or 12 amps or at least 3 x as much current. I doubt three times the spark voltage but definitely more. And NO, you can't use a points coil without it's ballast. It's not designed to run on a full 12v. The 'flamethrower can but neither are an advantage.

 

Here are some other advantages of the Matchbox module...

 

Automatically shuts itself off if you turn on ignition but don't start or it stalls. On a points system this can kill the battery or burn out the points and/or the coil.

Automatically adjusts the dwell time so the coil runs cooler at low speeds. Same output at all RPMs.

There is a current limiting circuit so even if you were to 'accidently' run a lower impedance coil it wouldn't burn out the module.

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8 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

 this would have helped what coil you have in there.

 

the Pertronix coil is 3 ohm which makes less of a spark for a Matchbox ,   BUT  Im sure it will work  in there  might be harder to start in winter since its a 3 ohm coil

 

eZist thing is buy a 79 EI coil and use the above drawing to get MOST spark out of this set up. Otherwise using the 3 ohm is like running the stock point coil with a ballast that was orginal with the car, spark power wise  but youll get the reliability of the electronic trigger from the distributor

 

 

Thanks. I don't have a new coil yet. Still the points coil and I was wiring to the ballast and coil and getting no power, thus your initial response. Thanks again

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7 hours ago, datzenmike said:

There are 3 options all will work to different degrees.

 

1/ Run your stock coil and ballast. Total coil and ballast resistance about 3 ohms. Same output as with points

2/ Run a Pertronix 'Flame thrower' coil without the ballast. Total resistance about 3 ohms. Same output as 1/ maybe small increase designed in, who knows.

3/ Run an EI coil with a resistance of 0.7 to 1.0 ohms. This will allow way more current to flow through the system making a stronger magnetic field and resulting in a stronger spark.

 

As per Ohm's Law i (current) = e (voltage) over r (resistance) so for the coil with ballast or the flamethrower coil, (both 3 ohms) current = 12/3 or 4 amps

 

For the EI coil, current = 12 / 1 (ohm) or 12 amps or at least 3 x as much current. I doubt three times the spark voltage but definitely more. And NO, you can't use a points coil without it's ballast. It's not designed to run on a full 12v. The 'flamethrower can but neither are an advantage.

 

Here are some other advantages of the Matchbox module...

 

Automatically shuts itself off if you turn on ignition but don't start or it stalls. On a points system this can kill the battery or burn out the points and/or the coil.

Automatically adjusts the dwell time so the coil runs cooler at low speeds. Same output at all RPMs.

There is a current limiting circuit so even if you were to 'accidently' run a lower impedance coil it wouldn't burn out the module.

Seems like the EI lower ohm and skipping ballast is way to go. 

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Yes indeed, if you want the full benefits of the EI system. You might want to refresh your wires, cap and rotor as the higher output will seek out any weaknesses in the insulation. What you want is the spark to see the spark plug as the easiest path to ground.

 

You might also increase the plug gap up to 0.038" to 0.041" exposing the fuel and air to more spark. On the down side the increased gap encourages the spark to look for another path to ground, other than the spark plug. If you have any problems reduce the gap.

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first why is your getting NO POWER???????  Has nothing to do with the coil

 

You should have figure this out already.

 

You said you had the Pertronix coil then you say you don't???????????

 

 

Put keuy On and see if you have 12volts at the Blk/wht wire going to the gballast resisitor. then measure the other side of the resisitor should  be less like 6 volts.

once you got this figure out you want to save money and drive this thing NOW  just put the red wire of the Pertronix to the + side of the ballast which is the blk/wht wire

Minus side Pertronix goes to minus side coil. that's it Bam your done

Edited by banzai510(hainz)

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10 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

first why is your getting NO POWER???????  Has nothing to do with the coil

 

You should have figure this out already.

 

You said you had the Pertronix coil then you say you don't???????????

 

 

Put keuy On and see if you have 12volts at the Blk/wht wire going to the gballast resisitor. then measure the other side of the resisitor should  be less like 6 volts.

once you got this figure out you want to save money and drive this thing NOW  just put the red wire of the Pertronix to the + side of the ballast which is the blk/wht wire

Minus side Pertronix goes to minus side coil. that's it Bam your done

Thanks. I'd asked if the pertronix would work based on the rec to get an EI 12v coil instead of my stock points coil, and I hadn't yet purchased one so was curious of the flame thrower. The reason for no power has made no sense to me, thus the reason for this post. Getting 10 at black/white ballast resistor. I had replaced the points distributor with EI distributor, but hadn't replaced the original coil and no wiring configuration had given me power. As originally said I wired according to the ballast configuration and tried other stuff. 

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OK Fuck the coil part for now. My head is hurting

 

you replace the fuse?

 

How about 12volts at the" In "of the Fuse then check for 12volt "out" of the fuse. then check for 12volt going into key switch

 

Maybe you just got a dead 10volt battery?

 

YOu check for spark at the center coil wire ?? Or at the end of a spark plug wire. Maybe your not at TDC.  But it should work form the center coil wire place near ground and ck for spark .

 

 

How about this question was the stock point ingnitin was it working before?

 

 

maybe measure the voltage with the BLK/Wht wire  NOT connected to the coil

 

 

clean battery posts

Edited by banzai510(hainz)

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On 9/7/2020 at 8:38 PM, datzenmike said:

You can run the EI on a points coil but you don't get the advantage of the higher output just the elimination of the points. For best results get any Datsun/Nissan coil from any '78 and up car or truck and get rid of the points coil and ballast. Wire it like this...

 

The EI coil is 0.75-1.0 ohms. It will draw more current through it and produce a hotter spark.

ZOkbBht.jpg

So I was trying to figure this out, I am guessing the blk and white is the start and the blk and red is the switch on because according to wiring diagram, the blk and red comes from ign switch and blk and white comes from fuse box. That being said here’s my question, I am adding a msd ignition box and coil, also electronic dizzy. Msd is calling for existing coil wires to come in so do I do the blk and red going to coil (from ig switch) or blk and white from fuse box (assume start)? Next is the Dizzy, It asks for the coil neg and positive, do I take the positive from the same switched as msd box Input or the output from msd box to coil, do I take the negative from dizzy to negative to msd box input? Or to negative msd output even though this has a positive and negative already routed to coil?Issue I’m having is the msd box is asking for existing coil wires as input, but so is the distributor but the msd box has its own output to coil, so not sure if with this setup I go to dizzy with the same input as msd box or go to dizzy with the output of the msd box? I hope this all made sense. thank you 

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You already have a matchbox EI distributor!!!! Adding msh is silly. Like adding a seat belt to your seat belt. Another muffler to your muffler. Don't be taken in by msd hyperbole. They aren't that great and won't run any better. Trust me, you'll spend all that and be disappointed with outcome. Just paint your coil red and call it good.

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Btw, I was asking based on the fact that I would like to take advantage of the multiple spark at lower RPM Since I already have an msd box. Faster starting and cleaner burn at low RPMs (Under 3k) does sound nice, but like you said, it may be just hype. 

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If you had a highly modified high compression engine that needed help with it's poor idle, it might help. Seems silly to light a fire twice. I have an EI system and it fires every time and starts very well.

 

Why not try each? When you can't tell the difference sell it and get your money back.

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44 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Why not try each? When you can't tell the difference sell it and get your money back.

I would try it. Do you know the difference or which wire to use blk and white from fuse box or blk and red from ignition switch? Right now the blk and white go to resistor and blk and red is hooked up to other side of resistor and spliced to coil positive. 

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The Start and On should both come from the ignition switch shouldn't they?

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Well, I think technically yes, the black and white goes from switch to fuse box then out to resistor. The black and red goes from switch to other end of resistor. Either way, use them both together or just the switched? 

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You're right it does go through the fuse box. I think mostly because it's on the way to the coil from the ignition. No sense having a loose wire hanging around. I joined both of mine together for neatness.

 

521wires.jpg

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