Draker's 1979 620 King Cab Deluxe

[Draker]

4 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

With it off test fit the distributor to the spindle and add steel shims (washers) on the pump side so that the top of the spindle engages it with no play, but not tight. Inspect the spindle for wear at this point also and replace if needed. Lack of oil? Was the oil slinger on the end of the crankshaft? There is an oil jet just above the crankshaft sprocket and below the tensioner between the chains and another (just a small hole) on the front cam tower. Both for lubricating everything under the timing cover. 

 

I don't know the history. Looks like an oiling issue, or improper spindle install. Never seen this happen, pretty odd. It could be saved I'm sure. The surface is not flat though.

As far as the oil slinger,or oil jet, also not sure. I can confirm the jet, it's still in the block. As far as the slinger, not sure. I bought this as a core to rebuild, from what I understand it burned oil. Looking back in my thread, I think the issue was that the it was re-ringed at one point, they didn't remove the ridge gap and all the top rings cracked. It could have gotten low on oil at one point (or more) due to burning.
 

[Draker]

1 hour ago, ]2eDeYe said:

I like the tabs, was still trying to figure out if I wanted to just countersink screws where the old tacks were. 
I do plan to use rivet nuts for retention. 

 

I thought about riv nuts too. We'll see.

[bananahamuck]

Do the tabs and rivet nuts , i bought a huge kit of the things and the tool off Amazon and it wasn't that bad considering i have enough to now survive the apocalypse 

 

 

 

 

..

Edited November 22, 2024 by bananahamuck

[Draker]

It’s been cold here.. so shop time has been limited. I had a machine shop weld the timing cover. They confirmed the cover was cracked all the way through so this wasn’t a wasted effort. Tolls them it didn’t have to be pretty. It’s not. But it’s leak free now.

 

[Draker]

What was that? I should buy a tig welder..?

 

and learn to use it? 
 

I agree.

 

 

[]2eDeYe]

I recommend the eastwood machine. I love mine

[Draker]

2 hours ago, ]2eDeYe said:

I recommend the eastwood machine. I love mine

I have their mig, it works well. I have the spool gun too. I technically can weld aluminum with it. Never tried though. 

[hobospyder]

Sounds like you might as well get the tig and have the set

[Draker]

10 minutes ago, hobospyder said:

Sounds like you might as well get the tig and have the set

 I watched reviews on top budget tigs, it did well. But I think there are some others that are more well featured in the same price range. Performance is good though! I’m undecided. Maybe someday.. just need the right project for it I think.

[EDM620]

12 minutes ago, Draker said:

Maybe someday.. just need the right project for it I think

Justification for more tools...

[hobospyder]

12 hours ago, Draker said:

 I watched reviews on top budget tigs, it did well. But I think there are some others that are more well featured in the same price range. Performance is good though! I’m undecided. Maybe someday.. just need the right project for it I think.

Fair enough, I don't know anything about tig welding and barely know enough about mig to attempt to teach myself with the unit I bought 10 months ago at this point that I haven't touched other than to move around. 

 

And i know all about needing the right project to justify the purchase of a new tool. 

[]2eDeYe]

6 hours ago, hobospyder said:

Fair enough, I don't know anything about tig welding and barely know enough about mig to attempt to teach myself with the unit I bought 10 months ago at this point that I haven't touched other than to move around. 

Remind me next time I am up there and I can get you checked out on that machine 🙂

[hobospyder]

1 hour ago, ]2eDeYe said:

Remind me next time I am up there and I can get you checked out on that machine 🙂

if i even remember 

[Draker]

Ordered the cheapest rivnut kit and installed 9 rivnuts.

Welded on mounting tabs

 

Added another mount point because it was a little floppy here. The top part of the original tray has 4 spot welds in this area. so I wanted to add a mount here.

Edited December 9, 2024 by Draker

[Draker]

Started on rust repair on the floors.

 

Been looking at this spot for a bit. I’m assuming debris got stuck between the cab and bed and rusted this part out. Water then leaked into the cab and rusted out the floor.

 

i chopped a few sections of this out to see if i could fix it from inside. I’m guessing I’ll have to pull the bed to fix this right. I’ll get it in the air and see how much access there is from the back. But I’m guessing it won’t be enough and the bed will be pulled. 

Edited December 15, 2024 by Draker

[IZRL]

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[]2eDeYe]

9 hours ago, IZRL said:

asdlkfj aoifjrewkj asdlkf asdflkawejoijlakdngafdejng afdghatuewaqiojfra; skdasdlkf jasdlkfoeijfraskldfalkdshtoweiha;kdj]aqowpeujt34098u5jtkta jladjk ls;akdjt f4905utjaithjgalkdjfsdlkjfr adthweith awhdet aweiothw49e5u34092utaiethj adlkjrtfaedkjroweiruawoierjaksdj fasdlk asdghlkwhjrtoi34utrjwkejfa dfj owiert34it0934u5309jtalsdk jakdjflakdjfalksdfj alksjdf weiortoawdjkalksdjfalksjdf32w4u5op34 ewaa;djfsdkj as34oeijsdalkjf wo8943utuj adljfr sldkfjowiejrtaskdjf aslkdjoieurjlaskdmf asdgz,mnga;ljkert i ohjodsfjskfdljgsdlke3roituj3954yutlsdkfsgolkfjghsdkfhgsdlkfhjger59utsikdjfgsdlkgxc,.nvmgbsoifhg rei ioibuyoiu

Someone is sitting on their phone lol

[Draker]

on a 1979 when removing the bed, what if anything is attached to the bed that needs unbolted? Fuel filler hose, electrical.. how about the gas tank? Just trying to figure out the plan of attack.

[hobospyder]

Gas tank is mounted to the frame. Should be electrical for the lights and the filler neck. License plate bracket is attached but comes with the bed. Electrical i want to say has a connector in the back near the tail lights. Watch for the expansion tank in the wheel well next to the filler neck, I don't know if the 79 has it like my 73 does but that's just fuel line and not anything serious to remove

 

Should remove the tailgate if hand lifting in my opinion. If lifting with a chainfall and no tailgate make sure there is some ballast to keep it level. 

[datzenmike]

The harness on the right rear frame end behind the taillight has a round 6 pin connector to the harness running across the rear of the box for all taillights, side marker and license lights.

 

The fastening bolts go up into the underside of the box but the 'nuts' have an eccentric washer welded to them that turns in a confined space and jams and holds while the bolt unscrews. If too rusty the washer (which is basically sheet metal thin) squashes the begins turning and you can forget about removing the bolt. It's hard to get in there and jam something to hold the nut.

 

The bed mounts have small squares of 1/8" rubber? between it and the bottom of the box. Save those. They may stick to the underside of the box.

[Draker]

18 hours ago, hobospyder said:

Gas tank is mounted to the frame. Should be electrical for the lights and the filler neck. License plate bracket is attached but comes with the bed. Electrical i want to say has a connector in the back near the tail lights. Watch for the expansion tank in the wheel well next to the filler neck, I don't know if the 79 has it like my 73 does but that's just fuel line and not anything serious to remove

 

Should remove the tailgate if hand lifting in my opinion. If lifting with a chainfall and no tailgate make sure there is some ballast to keep it level. 

 

16 hours ago, datzenmike said:

The harness on the right rear frame end behind the taillight has a round 6 pin connector to the harness running across the rear of the box for all taillights, side marker and license lights.

 

The fastening bolts go up into the underside of the box but the 'nuts' have an eccentric washer welded to them that turns in a confined space and jams and holds while the bolt unscrews. If too rusty the washer (which is basically sheet metal thin) squashes the begins turning and you can forget about removing the bolt. It's hard to get in there and jam something to hold the nut.

 

The bed mounts have small squares of 1/8" rubber? between it and the bottom of the box. Save those. They may stick to the underside of the box.

 

Good tips, thank you both.

 

Right now it's got a canopy installed and a mountain of parts all over the top, and in the bed. Going to have to find a place to store all that crap without losing it.

[Draker]

Started with the canopy removal. Not sure what I'm going to do with it. I may end up selling it.

 

 

Used the lift to pick the bed up. Got some blocks under it, then decided it should come all the way off.

 

Went to the second method and got it set on jack stands.

 

 

Everything under the bed looks good. No surprises.

 

Here are the two rust spots that need addressing. The one on the right is what caused the floors to rot out. Looks like a rat packed this area with random shit. eventually it rotted out and let water into the driver rear floor and rotted that out too. I'll get this cut out and replaced.

Edited March 3, 2025 by Draker

[Draker]

Started chopping. 

[]2eDeYe]

Heck ya. Need to get back to work on mine. 

[Draker]

More rust

 

more cutting to remove rust

 

Patch going in

 

backside. 

 

I still have more to cut out and patch back here. I’ll need to get some of the current missing bits patched back into place before I can cut more. Really wasn’t planning on doing this much rust repair.. but that’s how it usually goes, right?

Edited March 5, 2025 by Draker