Draker's 1979 620 King Cab Deluxe

[Draker]

Hold.

[Draker]

I've been kicking around the idea of a 620 build for a while now. It had to be a 79 king cab, deluxe is a plus. We'll I found one locally and been going back and forth if I should buy it. It's pretty rust free, other than a small spot in the door. It's got a few dents and dings, but otherwise pretty straight. Pics..

 

[Draker]

My plan is to just get it running and clean it up. Lower it a bit and new wheels.

 

The devil is in the details however. The engine is seized up (L18 with a87 head). I pulled the spark plugs and it looks like the head gasket blew, filled #3 with coolant and it rusted up pretty good. I use my bore scope and the rust is pretty bad. Probably going to need a complete rebuild of the lower end. Since I'm still plugging away at the 1200, this project will likely take a bit to get to. Maybe this winter? I'll probably pull the motor in the next few months. I figured, might as well buy it since it was available.

 

The interior is a mess, but the floor pans are clean!! There have been some rodents living in the cab, so it smells lovely. I'll collect parts as the become available and get this thing on the road!

 

 

 

 

[wayno]

1979 didn't come with an L18, I would find an L20b or build a LZ23 before building an L18.

[Draker]

1 minute ago, wayno said:

1979 didn't come with an L18, I would find an L20b or build a LZ23 before building an L18.

 

I'll need to double check this, it looked like L18 on the block. It's covered in grease. Let me confirm. I'll just do whatever is cheapest and easiest. If I find another motor for cheap, I'll just go with that.

[wayno]

I found a U20 block down in Eugene several years ago that had got water in two of the cylinders, it was said to be rebuilt in the ad(20 years ago I found out) and I was told it sat outside some of that time, they were asking $500.00 for it so I bought it and hoped for the best, I tore it down when I got it home and it indeed had rust in two of the cylinders, one not so bad, the other was bad, but when I tore it down every part in it was new, the timing chain set alone was worth over a $1000 by itself, I took it to a machine shop and they bored that bad cylinder out and put a sleeve in it and put it together with the brand new pistons that were already in it, it was a U20 block and worth saving, an L18 is not worth saving compared to an L20b block, if your going to build some thing I would build a LZ23 or an L20b block if a good Z22 block could not be found, most I know would not drive an L18 block in it's power band, no one drives around at 4000rpms to 5000rpms except circle track racers, the L20b and LZ23 have torque, most would be happy with that and I expect one could get very good mileage also, the day I broke my LZ23 in I drove to Renton WA(300+ miles at several different speeds/rpms) and i got 23mpg, I broke my speedo needle off on that trip.

[datzenmike]

1 hour ago, Draker said:

 

I'll need to double check this, it looked like L18 on the block. It's covered in grease. Let me confirm. I'll just do whatever is cheapest and easiest. If I find another motor for cheap, I'll just go with that.

 

L18s were only around for about a year. The '74 620 and 710 had them and the '73 610, that's it. All would have had A87 heads.

[Draker]

I just went and cleaned the ID boss on the block, confirmed it is an L18.

[RustedRails]

Nice truck! I have an L20 that needs a rebuild with a 5 speed for sale in NC haha. Seriously though, should be a fun project.

[Draker]

24 minutes ago, RustedRails said:

Nice truck! I have an L20 that needs a rebuild with a 5 speed for sale in NC haha. Seriously though, should be a fun project.

 

Thanks. I'm sure I can find one local. Still not sure what I'll do with the engine yet. L20 is always a good option though.

[hobospyder]

I have 2 questionable l18 block, at least 1 l20b block. Couple of heads, but no running motors. But ifn you want you can come grab some stuff

[Farmer]

Me likey

[Draker]

4 hours ago, hobospyder said:

I have 2 questionable l18 block, at least 1 l20b block. Couple of heads, but no running motors. But ifn you want you can come grab some stuff

 

Thanks, I think I might have a line on one. If that doesn't work out I'll let you know.

[hobospyder]

Everything is in different states of disassembly so they'll need work to get to moving. I'm just trying to get rid of stuff at this point

[]2eDeYe]

Nice candidate for a clean build. 

[Draker]

Got this thing titled finally. Took so long mainly due DMV requiring appointments and my laziness. So guess work can begin?

 

I've been gathering a few small parts to start the build. Mostly, the engine needs replaced. It's an L18 and I'm going to bring it back to an L20 truck. Now.. do I rebuilt a motor, or buy a runner. hmm..

[Lockleaf]

Smart man.  Titling stuff BEFORE doing anything to it.  I don't think I legally own my 510 wagon or my Roadster, at least not by title with the state.....not the smartest decision on my part.

[Draker]

1 minute ago, Lockleaf said:

Smart man.  Titling stuff BEFORE doing anything to it.  I don't think I legally own my 510 wagon or my Roadster, at least not by title with the state.....not the smartest decision on my part.

 

Do you have the correct paperwork to get the title in your state?

[Lockleaf]

I can abandon title pretty easily here in utah.  The condition in which they were purchased is under $1000 value, so I just have to fill out 3 forms for the State, submit some photos of them and so long as the VIN is not listed as stolen, they approve and send title.  I've done this process for few vehicles and its never too terrible.  I know other states are much more difficult. It only gets harder if they were last registered in a different state, but I haven't had to deal with that yet.

[Draker]

23 minutes ago, Lockleaf said:

I can abandon title pretty easily here in utah.  The condition in which they were purchased is under $1000 value, so I just have to fill out 3 forms for the State, submit some photos of them and so long as the VIN is not listed as stolen, they approve and send title.  I've done this process for few vehicles and its never too terrible.  I know other states are much more difficult. It only gets harder if they were last registered in a different state, but I haven't had to deal with that yet.

 

Ah cool, yeah that is easy! and the Utah title fee is so cheap!

I had to get titles for a few vehicles in Utah and I almost declined since I'd have to do the same thing again in Oregon. Then they told me the price, I was like... okay give me all the titles please. lol

[Draker]

I still have this truck. about a year ago I sourced a l20b short block which needed rebuilt. Previous owner noted it smoked. 
 

I need this thing out of my way so I tore it down to see what needs done. Basically it’ll need bored and maybe oversized bearings. It’s very close.. we’ll see what the shop says. 
 

I found the source of the smoke. Someone refreshed this engine and didn’t remove the ring ridge. Oops.

[Draker]

I've been doing a little work on this in the background. I've got the engine machined, new pistons and all the parts ready to reassemble. I picked up a W53 EFI head and intake, and been thinking about maybe.. just maybe putting it in this truck. I also have SU's as well.. My plan to build and engine stand where I can run this thing.. we'll see though. I might just stuff it in the truck and see what happens.

 

The truck is still in the same shape, nothing has changed other then prep work on the new engine.

[Draker]

Engine is going together. 

[datzenmike]

This in a very late L20B block casting. I'd say an '80 720? perhaps.

 

L20B and Z20 engines were basically the same even the crankshafts. This block is very interesting as it has that unused boss just below where the L20B is stamped. On a Z series engine this is where the hot water elbow for the heater is located because Z heads don't have them.

 

In addition, that threaded hole at the top of the block between cylinder 1 and 2.... on the 720 Z20 this is where the knock sensor is located. It's not on all L20Bs maybe in the late '70s?

 

The oil filter boss has those 4 bumps, again maybe late '70s? The Z series or the Z22 block I have has threaded holes. It's this way on the 280zx turbo for bolting the oil cooler adapter on.

[Draker]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

This in a very late L20B block casting. I'd say an '80 720? perhaps.

 

L20B and Z20 engines were basically the same even the crankshafts. This block is very interesting as it has that unused boss just below where the L20B is stamped. On a Z series engine this is where the hot water elbow for the heater is located because Z heads don't have them.

 

In addition, that threaded hole at the top of the block between cylinder 1 and 2.... on the 720 Z20 this is where the knock sensor is located. It's not on all L20Bs maybe in the late '70s?

 

The oil filter boss has those 4 bumps, again maybe late '70s? The Z series or the Z22 block I have has threaded holes. It's this way on the 280zx turbo for bolting the oil cooler adapter on.

Good eye Mike! I appreciate the insight. This is a W stamped block. I’ve heard these have slightly thicker cylinder walls. I’m not sure if there is any truth to that, unsure how to measure.