One ton brake change and stud replacement

[SLO720]

Had a chance to drag the dually in (locked up rear drum). Got the wheels off but snapped a stud and nut 🤦. Anyone know where I can get at least one lug nut (27mm body) and stud(looks like a 16mm thread diameter)? I guess I'll be pulling the drum off after I pull the motor and swap it out. I wasn't planning to tear down the rear any time soon now it looks like it will be much sooner. Are there any write-ups on disassembly in order to pull the drum off? I've personally never messed with a full float axle.

 

Before I do anything major this truck is getting an engine tomorrow. 

Edited September 5, 2020 by SLO720

[wayno]

I have a few of these dually axles of which one the ring/pinion are shot, not sure how easy it would be to knock out a stud though, I suspect an axle would be expensive to ship, I do have an extra lug nut as I bought 12 new ones from Nissan 10 years ago and I'll tell you right now that was expensive, I also bought a set of new drums, they said I got the last two in the country and it took months to find 2 of them on the shelves of the Nissan dealers.

It's not that hard to remove an axle, the drum might be a different story.

[SLO720]

So does the drum stay attached to the floater axle? I believe I found the stud, it appears to be double ended, threading into a flange and then knurled on the other side like a normal stud. 

Edited September 5, 2020 by SLO720

[wayno]

I vaguely remember that the axle itself comes out by removing the 6 bolts, then you can get to the bearings ect:

I do not recall if I ever removed just the drum to change out the brake shoes, it has been a long time since I had a dually axle apart, looking at the new drums in the photo below it appears they should come off without messing with the bearings, it might even come off without removing the axle, I do not recall anymore.

 

When I pulled it apart the first time I had no issue with putting it back together that I recall.

 

I believe you can just remove the 6 bolts holding the axle in and remove it without even removing the wheels, I expect it can be done without lifting the axle off the ground also.

Edited September 5, 2020 by wayno

[SLO720]

Thank you for the insight, I just got the motor pulled and this motor is definitely toast. I've never seen a z24 crack, this one cracked at the rear webbing and the crank is definitely bad too. I'll post pictures once I'm home

[wayno]

I just removed my axle on my driver side, it took me about 25 seconds from starting to take the first bolt out to resting the end of the axle on the rim, I have a video but 34mb is too large of a file for my Postimage account so I have no way to post it here, I didn't lift the truck or anything like that, I just removed the 6 bolts and took it out.

Edited September 6, 2020 by wayno

[SLO720]

Thank you, that sounds easy enough lol. I have confirmation the the d21 and 720 are supposed to use the same stud and from the pn# I was given on the lug nuts I believe I may have found them to order. The block I removed is toast but I believe the rebuilt head is still okay. 

[Charlie69]

That is definitely shot.  Good time to go KA or VQ.

[SLO720]

So that motor is totally shot and I'll save the head. The block is cracked in two places on the left side. One front and one rear. Last photo is the mystery engine I had laying around going into place (found out the motor runs fine yesterday)

 

Had time to pull the locked up drum off and found out a lot just by doing so. First after axle is removed, you remove two philips screws that hold the lock plate in place and then tap out the locking ring that holds the outer bearing in place. Once those are removed the drum can be wiggled off. The studs are held into place by nuts securing them to the drum and outer ring. 



Edited September 16, 2020 by SLO720

[datzenmike]

Spun rod bearing, cap came off and rod was jammed against the side of the block.  You can see the crank throw has turned blue from the heat. This wouldn't happen without a lot of noise.

 

A Cab/Chassis option with dual wheels is rated to 1,700 pounds (legally) though I'm sure it will carry more. Model number for Cab/Chassis... 3rd row begins with E

[SLO720]

The engine that came out of it was built by a questionable machine shop and I'm not sure how long it was ran when it died. I was told the guy I bought it from pulled over as soon as he heard it start knocking. It's been sitting 14 years since. I'll have to replace two of the parking brake cables when I do the shoes in the rear. Also had to make an engine harness (combining the plugs from the 84 harness with one off an 86 harness. I have two wires left over (went to a temp switch the 84 didn't have). My battery light glows now but I have yet to get the alternator to activate. I also need to check the temp switch as it doesn't seem to be working either yet (known good cluster). I'm almost certain of what I did wrong with the alternator and I'm under the assumption I should've soldered the connection for the temp sensor sender. The truck had mice or chipmunks living in parts of it for a while from what I can tell. The other gas truck I got with this one had a 7-8 ft long blacksnake skin in the cab and the exhaust was stuffed full of acorns lol. 

 

Other plans for this truck are to add ac (pulled everything from the orange truck including the head unit on the front of the heater box). Truck will be repainted after the body is done and a steel flatbed added. 

Edited September 16, 2020 by SLO720

[datzenmike]

I doubt he is going to admit running it out of oil and when it began knocking he turned the stereo up louder. Rods do not come apart quietly. Oh well if not for that you wouldn't have it.