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L20 Piston rings


KDW_80-720

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So I got my engine back bored out +.040 and bought some ITM .040 oversize rings. The rings oil rings will not fit right they just keep popping out (the wafer)no matter how many times. Is there a different set of .040 over bore rings I can get that will actually work?

 

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10 hours ago, KDW_80-720 said:

So I got my engine back bored out +.040 and bought some ITM .040 oversize rings. The rings oil rings will not fit right they just keep popping out (the wafer)no matter how many times. Is there a different set of .040 over bore rings I can get that will actually work?

 

Didnt they come with the pistons?

You are using new pistons right?

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Yes. The oil rings wafer on the bottoms won’t butt up. They overlap every single time and it presses the other ring out so they won’t compress. I’ve read some other people who have the same problem and just say to scrap those rings because that’s super common with those rings.

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8 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

Did you check and set ring end gap?

Yep. It’s all in range. It’s just that wafer oil ring thing is over lapping. They have like a red and green ends that are supposed to show colors when on the piston. They just overlap colors. I’ll grab a pic in a little bit 

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These rings have a big job to do and must do it reliably for up to hundreds of thousands of miles. If this is a common problem get ones that don't. The wavy center part just separates the ring above and below. These thinner rings act like squeegees to scrape oil off (and properly distribute it over) the cylinder walls. They MUST work, if there's a problem don't use them. Many engine parts are impossible to easily replace if they are a failure, like the rings. Worth the money to get something reliable for the peace of mind. 

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

These rings have a big job to do and must do it reliably for up to hundreds of thousands of miles. If this is a common problem get ones that don't. The wavy center part just separates the ring above and below. These thinner rings act like squeegees to scrape oil off (and properly distribute it over) the cylinder walls. They MUST work, if there's a problem don't use them. Many engine parts are impossible to easily replace if they are a failure, like the rings. Worth the money to get something reliable for the peace of mind. 

How would i measure these if I were to try and find some after market good ones?

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Just to clarify, you are putting the middle "wafer" section in first, and then the two thin oil control rings, right? Do you have them clocked correctly? I put the gap of the wafer ring at 12 o'clock (the very front of the piston), then the lower ring goes on at 11 o'clock, then the upper at 5 o'clock. If the clocking isn't right, I could see the middle popping out. Though in all the hundreds of motors I've built, I have never once had this problem, unless they were not the correct ring for the bore size.

 

Is there a wire that goes in the wafer section? If there is, make sure it is going through the holes to connect the gap ends.

 

If all is right, but still not working, go get another cheap set of rings and use just the oil rings. Could be they were simply mispackaged.

 

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8 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Just to clarify, you are putting the middle "wafer" section in first, and then the two thin oil control rings, right? Do you have them clocked correctly? I put the gap of the wafer ring at 12 o'clock (the very front of the piston), then the lower ring goes on at 11 o'clock, then the upper at 5 o'clock. If the clocking isn't right, I could see the middle popping out. Though in all the hundreds of motors I've built, I have never once had this problem, unless they were not the correct ring for the bore size.

 

Is there a wire that goes in the wafer section? If there is, make sure it is going through the holes to connect the gap ends.

 

If all is right, but still not working, go get another cheap set of rings and use just the oil rings. Could be they were simply mispackaged.

 

So it goes wafer ring ring or ring wafer ring? The FSM doesn’t do the best job explaining it. I want to do this right, my machinist didn’t gap then for me

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1 minute ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Wafer first, then lower, then upper. Speaking of oil rings only. Not the two upper rings.

 

Oil rings don't generally need to be gapped.

I think he means how they are stacked vs what order to put them on... 

 

So to clarify there is an upper and lower ring with the wafer in the middle....

Right????

 

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That’s makes sense. Yes, there is. They are clocked where they should be but the Wafer is still overlapped. When you spread apart a little it will stop the overlap but let it go, right back to where they were 

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After a few quick qoogles apparently the itm wafer and oil rings are just bad...

 

Everyone seems to say the pistons are good but the rings suck and suggest getting Hastings rings..... 

 

This is just what I read..... is it possible the end is supposed to overlap with those? Maybe that is itms design?

 

Have you tried emailing Itm directly?

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23 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

So if placed on a flat surface and formed into a circle they are too large for the bore? Can you trim the length?

I just got some Hastings rings ordered from my local Napa. 

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