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1971 Datsun 521


Zonargx

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Ok and yea I kinda knew this would happen as the truck did over heat twice  and once close to over heating back when I had that over heating problem aka bad radiator. I think I’m gonna replace most of the gaskets while I’m at it to prevent any fire leaks

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Read your temperature gauge and when it goes above normal, shut her down and find out why. Over heating ends up warped head and blown gasket. Cheaper to shut it off.

 

Only replace what's needed. Right now that's a head gasket. (and an intake/exhaust gasket to go with it) You start changing things that are not needed you end up snapping a stud or dropping something down a cylinder or worse.

 

While the head is off you could replace the valve guide seals. $2 each. Just a thought.

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I’m sure the new head has them I guess I didn’t mention but the l16 head my uncle gave me had just gotten a valve job done at the machine shop it has everything on it even the timing sprocket just need the install with a new head gasket. Besides setting the timing what else do I need to do ..? anyone has the torque specs for the l16 I guess thats mostly all I need?

Edited by Zonargx
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L16 uses a 210 head this is marked on the lower edge behind the fuel pump between plug number 1 and 2. Has to be a 210 head

 

1 hour ago, Zonargx said:

Well by all the gaskets I just meant like the timing cover gaskets ,oil pan, valve cover intake and exhaust 

 

Again don't fix what isn't broken. If not leaking, and sometimes it's hard to tell because everything runs down from the valve cover, leave alone. Fix the HG and get driving this.

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0XkIkH0.jpg
DwEwHA1.jpg

sorry I couldn’t take better pics but I poor straight water in there. Bought a gallon at the target near by and drove home kept it about 140 degrees and no over heat. I drove back home really slow on the street instead of highway and made it was thinking about waking up around 5 am while it’s still cold outside to make it to my grandpas shop driving highway but I’ll just get it towed there to be safer

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It does leak oil from what seems to be the timing cover there’s oil draining down from the sides of it. Looks to me the previous owner probably just put that gasket silicone stuff without the actual gasket.

 

sorry I can’t explain my self good sometimes I’m more use to talking about this stuff in Spanish 

Edited by Zonargx
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20 minutes ago, Zonargx said:

I can’t find instructions on how to torque the head so if anyone know that be nice


Mike posted this in a different thread:

 

 

FRONT

 

7...8

3...4

1...2

5...6

9..10

 

BACK

 

Following this sequence, torque to 20 ft lbs, then in sequence to 40 ft lbs, then to final 60 ft lbs.

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oaM8Z5x.jpg

 

Looks like maybe between 3 and 4.

 

Be sure to check the head is flat or you'll be doing this again. Clean the bolt holes and the bolt threads. There are two hollow alignment dowels on the manifold side that head bolts go through. In the picture below they're on on the far side to the right of number one cylinder. Looks like a small piece of pipe sticking up. The other one is same side between cylinder 3 and 4. These two bolt holes are slightly larger to start so the dowels drop down in. The head slides on and drops into place.

 

s-l400.jpg....

These are home made if you loose one...

 

IMG_0739.jpg

 

 

The head gasket does not need a re-torque. But some feel safer so be sure engine is cold from overnight. Loosen only one head bolt at a time. Immediately torque to 60 ft. lbs. Now loosen the next bolt and do the same. You can do in any order you like as long as only one bolt is loose at a time.

 

Make sure there is a steel washer under each head bolt to protect the soft aluminum.

 

Fill with water and run several heat cycles to be sure it's correct and not leaking... then drain the cooling system and fill with 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze coolant.

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That's  Felpro head gasket in there.  One guy told me they only last about 60k miles.  I used them but I got some better ones now.

 

L16s are not 60lbs

its like 40 pounds and I do 45 just for bolt stretch.

I think the L28 Turbo head bolts were 60

 

 

as mike said the coolant is too green. I use the 50/50 mix from Walmart and it will actually be cooer than a 100 percent mix what like you have.  so maybe drain it and get some distrill water to get your 50/50 mix. reallky I would buy new stuff.

 

Im late on this thread but how that heater hose work when I don't see any heater ports fore the heater core thru the firewall

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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rM9HuOm.jpg

 

Looks like small hose from head is connected to the return to the water pump. NEVER do this unless you block the flow. The heater shuts off flow when not using it. What happens is very hot water from the head is passed directly back into the engine without any cooling from the heater core. This hot water is by-passing the radiator and straining the cooling system in the summer.

 

DwEwHA1.jpg

 

I had the L20B in my truck do this but it was spitting out steam. Same exact spot.

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

I had the L20B in my truck do this but it was spitting out steam. Same exact spot.

 

Yup, mine was leaking from there recently. I had to retorque the stud nuts after redoing the gasket, and all is fine now. 

 

 

3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

L16s are not 60lbs

 

Depends on the year. It says that early L16's are 51, and late are up to 62. The ARP studs are 60 even. 

http://www.davidcmurphy.com/olddat/620tech4.htm?i=1

Edited by mainer311
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For what it's worth the '73 FSM says...

 

L16, 2nd turn 43.4 ft.lb.

L18, 3rd turn 61.5

 

As both L16/18 use the same deck height block the only real difference is the cylinder width being 2mm wider on the L18.... same as the L20B. Run the recommended 43 ft. lb. but I think you can safely run  60. Same block, same bolts same gasket.

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So doing 60 pounds is ok? 
 

@datzenmike the l16 head is going to get a valuable job and resurface to be sure and I’m not running into later problem . 
 

I have said fuck it and I’m going to get a side draft Webber carb set up from pierce manifolds for about $450 and the alternator adjuster bracket to make the truck look clean

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This is like using synthetic motor oil... it's over kill. ARP relies on people thinking they need them for stock applications. The stock head bolts are the same for all L series 4 cylinder engines and easily handle 60 ft lbs. Which is heavier, a ton of feathers or a ton of lead? Do you plan to remove the head after every race weekend? Do you plan a turbo or increased compression ratio? Copper head gasket? Nitrous? No? well then don't over think the head bolts or the motor oil.  

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