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Zonargx

1971 Datsun 521

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The Pertronix only gets rid of the points so the spark isn't any improvement, in fact running a lower resistance coil for higher output can burn them out. There's nothing wrong with a Pertronix and not having all the maintenance (cleaning, gaping or replacing) of having points.

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14 minutes ago, Zonargx said:

I’m running a pertronix

 

That shouldn't change anything. Pertronix is just a hall effect sensor that replaces the mechanical points. They both act as triggers for winding field collapse in the coil. The strength of the spark is determined by the coil impedance, which typically stays the same with the Pertronix modules. In fact, I think they recommend no less than 3 ohms, either in the coil by itself, or in conjunction with a ballast. Matchbox coils are usually 1 ohm, and that's where the stronger spark comes from, allowing you to gap wider. 

 

I would still gap to about 0.035". It won't affect your mixture in either case, so you'll still likely need to look at the carb settings.

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rBTmJmZ.jpg
 

so it does seem to be above lever not sure if that faded line is where it is suppose to be at 

 

 

actually I looked it up now and the carb might have been rebuilt and the plate was put up side down. I adjusted the screw as well to what seem good by turning it clockwise. It seemed it was open up more than necessary like two full turn more. I’ll be checking and gapping the plugs if needed but so far its back to normal. My next step is replacing the windows squeegees the quarter windows seals and window runner seals as well as sound deadening it so I can finally listen to music haha

Edited by Zonargx
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Yeah, the window looks upside down. Keep in mind that the adjustment screw is really only for idle. 

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UP45rSDdCG1EaPIRLtdp2W5PKjIYYn9OoFf_6EOLDatsunCarbs02.jpg

genuine-datsun-620-521-720-carburetor-ni

 

All are slightly above half way so you're close enough.

 

 

 

rBTmJmZ.jpg

 

You may be missing the small round brass spacer on the end of the float hinge that rests against the glass and holds the float in place like picture A above.

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Thanks. Is Thailand eBay weather seals for the 521 good? Those are technically the only place that’s got the rubber Sears for the windows or does anyone else know where to get them I heard about the one guy who use to make them but passed away (rest in peace)?

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I can take better pictures tomorrow if the whole carb and also adjust the choke cable and check it as mike said 

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7 hours ago, Zonargx said:

Thanks. Is Thailand eBay weather seals for the 521 good? Those are technically the only place that’s got the rubber Sears for the windows or does anyone else know where to get them I heard about the one guy who use to make them but passed away (rest in peace)?

There not bad.... the front, rear and 1/4 window seals .... 

Like you say we dont have to many choices.... 

Try looking here.  

https://vintagerubber.com/datsun-nissan/521-truck/

 

I did find the door seals that go around the cab to seal the door are not correct...

The profile seems correct but the material is too hard.... 

I went to mcmaster's and bought a generic door seal .....

Edited by Crashtd420
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Also watch out the door seals that vintage rubber sells go on the door not the cab.... I'm not sure what that's about.  

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Ok so today I blew my head gasket I has seen it leaked since last week said I was gonna wait until his week to fix it and today the last day of work for this week my gasket blew. What a luck but anyways I have a machines l16 head from another truck my uncle was going to rebuild the engine but ended up selling the truck. The head it’s all good and just ready to swap in with a new gasket but I just found an l20 block with a w58 head and the owner said it smokes that maybe it need new piston rings or valve seal. I want to know if it’s worth it to get that l20 with the w58 head? I don’t know anything in regards to the l engines and head number to know what I’m getting

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Or I’m thinking of just getting the head gasket for the l16 put it back in but the l20 Ans just slowly rebuild it until it’s ready. The l20 has not distributor, I take and exhaust manifol... would the ones from the l16 parts fit on there I’m from what I’ve seen here it believe I saw someone mention you need an l20 distributor 

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Also would that l20 fit right on the 4 speed trans or do I need the flywheel that comes with the l20?

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what engine is in truck now? L16?

 just put the new head on there. don't replace anything.  I just pull the intake off and move the exhaust manifold over to the side so I don't have to take it off the Y pipe(otherwise bolts break ect….)

however you need a plan of action on how to replace a headgasket.  You have timing wedge or you going to replace the timing set also?

 

who mention you need a L20 distributor?  the motor don't know. Use your distributor in there .

 

https://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video;_ylt=AwrJ7FQjR.FevLQAFx1XNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTE0cjZlNW04BGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDQjg3NDZfMQRzZWMDcGl2cw--?p=datsun+hainz&fr2=piv-web&fr=yfp-t&guce_referrer=aHR0cHM6Ly9zZWFyY2gueWFob28uY29tL3NlYXJjaD9wPWRhdHN1bitoYWlueiZmcj15ZnAtdCZmcD0xJnRvZ2dsZT0xJmNvcD1tc3MmZWk9VVRGLTg&guce_referrer_sig=AQAAAHwSuzSzl0l05eg5Rju2mSpIj1N3MJyKEeKYKxEvvWy6dznTJahJ_tZhvYt3b7TOASdTCNCvJd1mil6YLnMjhbKEPNFCDDh17G4e-E7jrDWFkFSQeJMjFLCJhD9BYufdtyMJRoXcOg8JhZmpXW7WHEIX_s9NU9Cn61mZ4Y0aoc1g&_guc_consent_skip=1605305386#action=close&id=&vid=

Edited by banzai510(hainz)

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21 minutes ago, Zonargx said:

Ok so today I blew my head gasket I has seen it leaked since last week said I was gonna wait until his week to fix it and today the last day of work for this week my gasket blew. What a luck but anyways I have a machines l16 head from another truck my uncle was going to rebuild the engine but ended up selling the truck. The head it’s all good and just ready to swap in with a new gasket but I just found an l20 block with a w58 head and the owner said it smokes that maybe it need new piston rings or valve seal. I want to know if it’s worth it to get that l20 with the w58 head? I don’t know anything in regards to the l engines and head number to know what I’m getting

 

You're sure? Leak where? Usually blows between cylinders or into the cooling system. Lots of steam out the exhaust and loss of radiator water.

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No pictures right. Lenin at work left the truck parked anyways it’s an l16 it was leaking slowly and steering from between the head and engine counts really tell what was up as I was rushing but it seem to me it was from the gasket. Right side back towards the fireway from like the middle of the head down to the back half of the head


won’t be replacing timing chain 

 

 

the l20 is for sale I’m just mentioning it I would need a distributor for an l20 And if the intake Ans exhaust manifold were interchangeable with the l16 ones. The last part was about the flight wheel.... if I was to put the l20 in the original 4 speed trans would it bolt in direct or I’m gonna need a different flywheel 

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I know the easy fix is to just swap the head for the masculine one I have and get the new gasket just wondering if there any special procedure I will need to do so I don’t mess up or will it be simple to fix like just securing the chain and setting the time right. 
 

im thinking about getting the l20 and rebuilding it for a later swap if I get it so just want to know what I will need for that block to work keep in mind I have the l16 so if any parts are interchangeable that’s be nice

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put L16 head on and don't have to swap anything.

if you haven't done this best to have a gagrage and take your time. If in Apt parking lot the truck is going to get towed and sent to the junk yard after you make a mess drop the chain, pull the front cover, than abandon it

 

 

the L20 has round or square exhaust ports????

If smokes get it for 100$ and rebuild it.

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15 minutes ago, Zonargx said:

  Right side back towards the fireway from like the middle of the head down to the back half of the head

 

 

To be sure, you do mean the spark plug side????

 

What's leaking??? Water???

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Not sure about the l20 haven’t actually seen it 

 

as for the leak yes it is in the spark plug side it starts from around #3down to the back 

 

I’m getting it towed to my grandpas shop when I get off work and I’ll also check where the leak is at and take pictures to post. I want a bit more power and rather than going ka swap I have decided to keep it more simple and go l20 route. Owner for the l20 had a 620 that he took it out of and put another engine and sold it so he selling the l20 and he says is smoking reason why he swapped it out and wasn’t sure if it’s valuable seas or rings

Edited by Zonargx

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Water not oil?

 

If rebuilding the L20B later you don't want to pay much for it if burning oil and missing the distributor. Should be free for taking. You are basically just helping by getting rid of it for him. Keep that in mind.

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He said he has a spare distributor but wants $500 so I just said I’ll pass. Offer $200 but he dropped it to $450 and I said nevermind thanks 

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NAPA Felpro for $25 is fine. It's more important to make sure the head is flat. Gaskets usually blow for a reason such as over heating and warping. Good idea to check with a straight edge in an X pattern. If you can slip a 0.004" feeler gauge under the straight edge anywhere it needs to be leveled.

 

Yes the head bolts are reusable.

 

Before you put a wrench to this head you MUST block the timing chain tensioner from falling out. Find out how and know what your are doing. It's not hard to change a HG, it's just turning wrenched, but the tensioner falling out adds about 4 hours of extra unneeded work to fix.

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