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1971 Datsun 521


Zonargx

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Damn @wayno that’s crazy haha but I won’t be hauling anything close to that perhaps at most my truck full of house hold stuff when moving or you know the basic material stuff so I would say a rebuilt L20 should so just fine for me. @datzenmike I do want to maybe stroke it out but what will that require me to get ? Bigger pistons a cam? Or what?       
 

I would be running a dual carb set up though because I  like the look of that and how it sounds

 

as for the transmission I totally got what you mean mike. Just get one that pairs to the l20 and make sure i get it’s component most important flywheel right. Drive shaft it’s the least of the worries 

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15 minutes ago, Zonargx said:

Would the wiring change for the l20 for example the distributor I know the starter should be rarely simple anything else that would need some alterations so it’s wire property or is it like a old Chevy that’s like plug and play?

Is your distributor the old one or a new electronic ?

 

If its points then same wiring.

If its a new electronic Dist, then wiring to the distributor changes a little.

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10 hours ago, Zonargx said:

Damn @wayno that’s crazy haha but I won’t be hauling anything close to that perhaps at most my truck full of house hold stuff when moving or you know the basic material stuff so I would say a rebuilt L20 should so just fine for me. @datzenmike I do want to maybe stroke it out but what will that require me to get ? Bigger pistons a cam? Or what?       
 

I would be running a dual carb set up though because I  like the look of that and how it sounds

 

as for the transmission I totally got what you mean mike. Just get one that pairs to the l20 and make sure i get it’s component most important flywheel right. Drive shaft it’s the least of the worries 

 

You should read this in the engine section, here is a link.

 

My LZ23(Z22 block) is what you are calling stroked it out, the L20b has an 86.0mm stroke while the Z22 has a 92.0mm stroke, if you were able to find a Z20 block with the 152.5mm(6") connecting rods you could build yourself a rev happy engine.

There is a low mileage engine locally, this one has a history if the story is true, but it is too far away for you, just start searching for an L20b, eventually your going to find one.

https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/d/vancouver-low-mileage-l20b-datsun-motor/7210377000.html

 

I also run dual SUs on my LZ23, this is my 1971 Datsun 521 work truck engine compartment.

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Edited by wayno
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@Greaser2 my L16 had the single point distributor not sure if that’s stock don’t really know that much about the Datsun. @wayno that’s what I basically want to have the stock L20 makes decent power compare to the l16 so if I can’t find a Z20 block I’ll just look for a complete l20. Also for the first time in my current life I forgot to put my oil cap back on after doing an oil change on the l16 was done doing it close the hood and started going to work. Only got down the a couple blocks untill I smelled oil first sign I should have seen was the poor start it has because of the large vacuum I’m just glad I notice it then put a ran over it and drive back home as dramatically slow I guess it’s karma for talking smack about swapping my l16. I also found the cap on the road all run over so now I need a new one aside from having to clean my engine, engine bay and transmission since the oil spilled everywhere 

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That style was also used on the 510, Roadster, patrol and B-210, 210s and F10 with A series engines.. This is likely the valve cover with the DATSUN OHC 1600 on it with 4 ? raised fins running back to front. If you can't find one you can replace the valve cover with any other L series four cylinder that has one. Later ones are threaded and screw on.

 

I have the 'collectable' elephant cap

 

bFTZY16.jpg

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@datzenmike I found something but it won’t ship until about the end of the month And I need to be able to drive to work. Like I said I did find an ohc valve cover with the screw cap and seems to be a direct fit and I cant wait more than a couple days. that older one that’s push down twist a couple degrees and done is ok but I can’t wait for more than two weeks to get here

Edited by Zonargx
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I suspect the part number was 13264-23000. There are others listed as fitting but they also fit the L18 so these wouldn't have 1600 on them. The 5 number 23000 is common on early L series parts and can be found on L20Bs if they remain unchanged like the breather tube on the top of the cover. At some point DATSUN OHC was replaced by NISSAN OHC on the covers on the L20B mid '70s?

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HS4 are non Hitachi or 'real' Skinner's Union carburetors. Are you sure the intake is for an L series??? The English and Japanese 'SUs' are very similar but..... ???

 

Probably why the linkages are missing as they are likely not interchangeable.

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I have only bought one dual SU assembly for an L block for less than $200.00 that was any good and that was from Dan Hart at the Portland swap meet maybe 3 years ago, you may get lucky but I would not spend money you cannot afford to spend on something like this unless you know who your buying from and know they are good.

It cost a lot of money to have them built right, I have spent over $700.00 on a set for my Roadster but I know that set will be the last set I will ever have to buy for it.

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It is a fantastic deal for $150 I just worry  it's not complete and may be hard to get running. The Hitachi SUs are Japanese copies of the original Skinner's Union (SU) carburetors. For one the Hitachi are probably metric. I think the needles will interchange but not much else. God knows what you'll need for a linkage. The intake is probably worth $150.

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