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1971 Datsun 521


Zonargx

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I think I’m just gonna go get that engine on Monday as I’m gonna be off if worst comes to worst and things need to be rebuilt I can gather parts and rebuilt it plus for $600 on engine, trans and ecu wiring harness combo is not bad

Edited by Zonargx
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Any 521 that has the vapor return has the extra fitting on the tank and you can even use that line going back there to use as the return line, just remove the hose going to the canister and pipe that line directly to the tank, the only issue I could see is if that vapor return line is not big enough, it worked fine for my SUs.

 

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I would ask for pictures if possible I haven’t touched nor looked at that canister at all it I can do use it as a return it would probably make it easier to install a ka. You know what one thing I’m thinking about is the clutch stuff how will I make my clutch master work with the new slave of the 240 is it possible to just make a new hard like for it or is there any easier way. I have extra line from my front disk conversion and some fittings 

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9 minutes ago, Zonargx said:

I would ask for pictures if possible I haven’t touched nor looked at that canister at all it I can do use it as a return it would probably make it easier to install a ka. You know what one thing I’m thinking about is the clutch stuff how will I make my clutch master work with the new slave of the 240 is it possible to just make a new hard like for it or is there any easier way. I have extra line from my front disk conversion and some fittings 

 

The metal line does not go into the canister area, they use a rubber line to go in there as I recall, all you would need to do to use it as a return line is remove the rubber line from the hard line and put a new hose to the tank fitting, well you would need to remove the line  from the canister to the tank also.

I expect you could make something work using the old lines like cutting them and using a fitting to connect them together.

What really counts is that you have that extra fitting on the tank, you can make your own line if you have to.

Try using your clutch master to make the 240 slave work first.

Edited by wayno
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Good to know that. I want to know about an l20b swap also what will I need to fit one in because one of my options was that ka or the l20. If I go with the l20 what will I need? I’m gonna be looking for a 5 speed to pair it with so all the advice is helpful also will this also require the drive shaft to be shortened?

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The L20B is identical to the L16 but is 2cm (3/4") taller. Use the L16 engine brackets and the oil pan and pick up tube. Use the L16 exhaust manifold. Try to get an L20B with a flywheel                            

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22 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

The L20B is identical to the L16 but is 2cm (3/4") taller. Use the L16 engine brackets and the oil pan and pick up tube. Use the L16 exhaust manifold. Try to get an L20B with a flywheel                            

What 5 speed transmission can I pair it with?

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The L20b would be the easiest route for you to go this time, it basically bolts right in except for the 5spd transmission mount which needs to be made or bought, I wrote an article on how to make/build a short shaft 5spd so you could use your existing drive line, but it's getting harder to find what you need anymore.

I also made an LZ23 back in 2011 as I recall, it kinda tells you what I had to do and what I had to find(Z22 block without large cracks) to make it.

I would build an LZ23 before doing an L20b build myself, but I am spoiled and don't want to take a large step backwards anymore, move forward or stay the same, putting an L20b in your truck is a large step forward compared to the L16, best upgrade I ever made to my Datsun 521 work truck, but I built another L20b with an RV cam and regretted it, that is when I built my LZ23, it was second greatest upgrade to my work truck I ever made, there is no substitute for displacement, the KA24 would likely also be a great upgrade, but I do not understand the newer computer controlled engines and all the sensors they have and I have not a clue how to wire them or fix them if they break down on the side of the road, that is why I like my LZ23, I have never had to be towed home in the last 9 years, I always was able to get within walking distance of my house before it would not go any farther, I walked home(3 miles), got an electric fuel pump and rode my bike back, installed it, thru the bike in the back and I drove home, I always carry an electric fuel pump with me now.

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Myself a 71B from a late 620 truck an 810 or a Maxima, a 280z or a 280zx non turbo. Even the '80 720 had an L series 5 speed that will fit the L20B. These are all longer than your 521 4 speed so the drive shaft must be shortened. I'm sure wayno has mentioned the 720 short 71B that will fit your 521 drive shaft length but you have to find one and an L series front cast to swap onto it and I think shortening the drive shaft would be easier and cheaper.

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The LZ23 is nothing more than a Z22 block out of a 1981/82 Datsun 720 or a 200SX of the same years, I bored it out to except Z24 pistons and I put an L block head on it, an L20b front cover, and I used all the L16 stuff to mount it in the 521 truck, I would use the L16 exhaust manifold and intake also unless you are going to use Dual SUs, then just use the L16 exhaust manifold.

The Z22 block is nothing more than an L20b block that has larger bore with a Z head on it.

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Good power and torque from the added displacement but it means sourcing a lot of parts from two other engines and a probable rebuild.

 

Here I would just get an L20B. You'll be pleasantly surprised with the increase in torque over the L16. I put a car L20B in my '71 521 back in the '70s. With a sudden switch like that you could feel it press you back in the seat in the higher gears. Thing is, in a few weeks you barely remember the L16 and want more push back in the seat. More, sadly, is never enough in the end.

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The L20b was a good enough upgrade for me for over a decade, but I was dealing with other upgrades like disc brakes, power steering, and then power brakes and I was working full time on my own business, but eventually I came back to the power of the engine because the one I had was using oil, a lot of oil at the end, it got expensive burning 3 quarts of oil a tank of gas, so I built the LZ23, keep in mind back then that I tow a trailer and hauled a lot of weight daily, I was wearing out rearends, breaking transmissions, it was not uncommon for me to be rolling around with a rolling weight of over 7000lbs, so the LZ23 was a welcome upgrade, I have been fine with the LZ23 for 9 years now and I have my other trucks to drive when I am not working which are fun to drive themselves.

 

What your looking at in the photo below is 8000lbs of rolling weight, truck weighs 3400lbs, that is 2000lbs on the flatbed, there is 2000lbs in the trailer, and the trailer weighs at least 600lbs likely more, this was just a normal day for me back then, and it was before power brakes, but I believe the trailer had electric brakes at that time.

DSCN0874.JPG

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