greenthumb Posted April 25, 2021 Report Share Posted April 25, 2021 31 minutes ago, Charlie69 said: Change to a 620/720 ebrake cable setup and do away with the all the bellcrank on the frame. I didn’t know that was a thing. I had the exact problem with the down pipe and the bellcrank also. I used a cable from a 510. Works great. I also had to shrink my battery mount to clear the intake. I really want to keep a battery in the stock location, but it will have to be a smaller frame size. Looking good! 1 Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted April 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2021 1 hour ago, d.p said: Nice work. Is the trans in? Yes it is had to cut the torsion bar bolts about and in to let it clear 1 Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted April 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2021 @greenthumb so all you used was a 510 e brake cable? Did you have to get any extra stuff or tab anything up for that? 1 Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted April 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2021 @Charlie69 I was also considering making a custom bracket using the old one to get around the manifold 1 Quote Link to comment
greenthumb Posted April 25, 2021 Report Share Posted April 25, 2021 It’s been a while. I need to have a look. I do remember macgyvering the connection from the 510 cable to the 521 linkage. 1 Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted April 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2021 Any help is appreciated I can also do what charlie69 said but then I have to buy more stuff and.I just want to keep it simple 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 26, 2021 Report Share Posted April 26, 2021 Buy complete trucks for parts. If I remember correctly I had to use part of the 720 ebrake bracket and handle to manage the cable through the firewall. I ended up putting a 720 chassis under my 66 which solved many small issues and got me away from king pins. By the way Mike Klotz has 50 plus king pin kits hit him up before they are sold out. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted April 26, 2021 Report Share Posted April 26, 2021 Mine hit the bell crank on my 280ZX 5 speed so I just flipped the linkage around right outside the firewall in the engine bay. I can post a pic later if you want. 2 1 Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted April 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2021 @d.p that be great I would rather see some pics to get a better idea 1 Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted April 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2021 @Charlie69 how you do that chassis swap. Was it simple did you just put the body into it or did you do any cutting and re welding? 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 26, 2021 Report Share Posted April 26, 2021 I used a 1980 720 chassis from a truck I bought for $50. The front mounts under the radiator line up . The middle and back cab mounts do not line up. Wayno drills new holes I believe in the the floor of the cab. My brother and I cut the mounts off off the 520 chassis and used the ends of them to extend the 720 mounts out to match the holes in the cab. This is with the cab mounted on the 720 chassis I cut all the 720 bed mounts off and ground of the residual metal from the frame. I then blocked up the bed on the frame where I wanted it to line up the body lines wanted it. I measured each mount height to the the mount on the bed and marked the the 720 2 sets of front mounts. I the bolted the 720 frame mounts to the bed using the 720 rubber isolators. With these 4 mounts positioned my brother welded the to the frame. On the rear of the bed I made a 3/4" solid block of steel about 4" long that I drilled and tapped for the rear bed mount. Bolted these to the bed with a rubber pad and positioned them on the top of the frame rails. My brother then welded them to the bed frame. after doing this I realized the 3/4" rasied the back of the bed too high so I need to cut these out and refigure them and the second back set of frame mounts also. Do the front and rear mounts first on the cab and be and the do the mounts in between as thi will establish the height of the mounts in between the front and the rear mounts. Great care need to be taken to squre the cab and the bed up on the frame. I also started by leveling my frame front to back and side to side before starting any fitting of the cab and bed. Wayno has done several 720 chassis swaps he is the guru for this. He guide me through my swap. This is all in my 520 build thread. Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted April 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2021 (edited) Ok I’ll be taking a look into that. I really want to see what dp did to make his e brake work. Edited April 26, 2021 by Zonargx 1 Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted April 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2021 So far the shorted thermostat housing is really close to the tps sensors. I have two extra connections towards the distributor I assume one was for the ac compressor the other maybe for the cooling fan? That one is a blue and black wires. Also have to switch the couplings to 2 inch ones the 3in one don’t even fit at all. And I tried flipping the e. Brake bracket in many ways and it still hits gonna wait Ans see what I can do about it later 1 Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted April 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2021 Another thing I need help is finding the differential oil seal by the drive shaft when I removed the drive shaft I notice it had some oil leak all over the upper part of the bed? And down the housing 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 27, 2021 Report Share Posted April 27, 2021 6 hours ago, Zonargx said: Another thing I need help is finding the differential oil seal by the drive shaft when I removed the drive shaft I notice it had some oil leak all over the upper part of the bed? And down the housing That should be a readily available seal... I see 2 listed on rockauto... I can check what part number I used when I get home from work today... 2 Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted April 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2021 Rock auto is weird they sometimes don’t have thing and sometimes they do. Anyways does the stock 521 clutch slave flex hose the same as the stock brake like. I just checked my hose and it’s has a very small leak. Rock auto doesn’t have them listed I only see brake likes 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 27, 2021 Report Share Posted April 27, 2021 I've used brake flex hose for the slave when I did a 4" body lift on my 620. They should work on a 521 for threads or get a 521 brake hose to be sure. 2 Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted April 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2021 Thanks mike 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 27, 2021 Report Share Posted April 27, 2021 2 hours ago, Zonargx said: Rock auto is weird they sometimes don’t have thing and sometimes they do. Anyways does the stock 521 clutch slave flex hose the same as the stock brake like. I just checked my hose and it’s has a very small leak. Rock auto doesn’t have them listed I only see brake likes Not sure on that one.... I tried looking around but didnt find one available either.... You could always have one made, I a have a local hose shop that can replicate what I bring them.... Careful because I see some listed in ebay for the 521 but also the 620.... I believe 521 is sae But the 620 is metric.... On rockauto you can get the hydraulic line for the 620 but you would have to get a 620 slave cylinder to match.... and change the fitting on the hardline.... I did that before with my rear brakes... I needed those wierd y fittings.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 27, 2021 Report Share Posted April 27, 2021 This is what I used for my differential pinion seal.... I think I got it from oriellys.... I think the timken 1167s seems correct but the skf that was also listed on rockauto seemed wrong.... It might be best to remove the flange from the differential and double check the measurements... 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 27, 2021 Report Share Posted April 27, 2021 521 threads from factory are sae 620 are metric. 2 Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted April 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2021 (edited) Thanks I will try to get that fix as soon as possible. Also I got the truck to start. Hate that it’s open header right now but it runs. @banzai510(hainz) I did it hahaha hard part is done just need the drive shaft and exhaust made😎 Edited April 28, 2021 by Zonargx 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 28, 2021 Report Share Posted April 28, 2021 Your picture links do not work. Quote Link to comment
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