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1971 Datsun 521


Zonargx

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As I've pointed out before, the factory manuals are available for download online in multiple places....including my site.

As you can see in this pic, the factory ride height has the UCAs angled downward, so when you lower the suspension, you're going to get more positive camber.  A few pages further in the manual tells you that the factory setting for camber is just over 1 degree.  If you put washer between the cross shaft and the shock tower, make sure you get longer, high grade(grd 8, at least)bolts or they'll pull out, destroying the threads.  As Mike mentioned, it will affect your toe setting as well, so if you can't set that yourself, take it to an alignment shop.


 

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15 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I been trying to a get a set of those also. but never in stock

 

I have plenty of them on hand....just pm me.  Weebly bought...or got bought by....Square, so they've screwed all the Paypal users.

 

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3 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

the stock rubber units (upper bushing wear out. Im on my 3rd set

Mike's kits are 1000 times better than the stock rubber....

He uses a nylon spacer with it between the metal and the bushing so it's not twisting itself like the stock ones do... 

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16 hours ago, Zonargx said:

@datzenmikeadd same amount for rear? If I put shims to take the positive camber off how do I give it the same to the rear? I have never messed with car in this way were I lower and adjust heights I have always been a huge fan of stock look up until now haha.the actually look to me that they are more of zero camber only the fronts have that ugly positive camber

 

 

ill post pics of the front drop tomorrow 

Is the camber in the rear off? If it is, maybe the axle is bent. There are ways to repair a bent housing, so if it is bent, understand that it can be fixed.

 

Or maybe you were just wondering if it was possible to adjust the rear camber. The short answer is no.

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I'm pretty sure that when the reference was made to "front" and "rear", it was in reference to the two bolts holding the UCA cross shaft and how it would affect caster.  Both caster and camber changes will affect the toe.  

 

These are the bushings that have been referred to.  http://www.bluehandsinc.com/320520521620drum-urethane-uca-bushings.html  

If you have questions about these, pm me, don't clutter up this thread with them.

 

Edited by mklotz70
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Where do we get the correct transmission mount for a 521 4 speed?

the one I bought was listed for a 521 and looks similar but has the bottom hole pointing downwards like a Chevy type the one in my truck has them sideways or do 521 owners just drill the hole and remove the side bolt?

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4 minutes ago, Zonargx said:

Where do we get the correct transmission mount for a 521 4 speed?

the one I bought was listed for a 521 and looks similar but has the bottom hole pointing downwards like a Chevy type the one in my truck has them sideways or do 521 owners just drill the hole and remove the side bolt?

You dont unfortunately, they dont exist anymore....

And unfortunately it's not as easy as just drilling 2 holes....

I'm not sure what others have done, I remade my bracket to make it work... 

I think there is a guy here redeye who makes engine and transmission mounts for motor and transmission swaps..... he makes a bracket to swap to a 71b 5spd but maybe he could make one to fit the older 63 series 4 spds to use the available mount....

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Fyi they sell a lot of parts for the 521 that are not correct so be careful ordering stuff....

Ones I know

Motor mounts 

Transmission mount

Rear outer wheel seal

Front inner wheel bearing...

And some switches and other stuff...

I still get bit in the ass with it... the rear wheel seal just got me....

 

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Im gonna end up doing an engine swap to the truck waiting on what comes up soon either an l20 or a ka24e or de.

if I get a l20 I will get a 5 speed for it still will need a new trans mount bracket just not sure what route I’ll end up going. I would just want to put a new mount on my transmission for the mean time because Its worn out.

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8 minutes ago, Zonargx said:

Im gonna end up doing an engine swap to the truck waiting on what comes up soon either an l20 or a ka24e or de.

if I get a l20 I will get a 5 speed for it still will need a new trans mount bracket just not sure what route I’ll end up going. I would just want to put a new mount on my transmission for the mean time because Its worn out.

I guess that all depends on time line, if your planning a motor swap save than mount because you'll still need it...

If you have a welder or friend who does you can easily make a bracket for now.... doesnt have to be pretty just functional....

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L20B is about a drop in as there is. It's the same engine as the L16/18 but 3/4" taller just below the head. And larger displacement. Get one with a flywheel still on it as the L16/18 ones don't fit. You can use the L16/18 exhaust manifold and oil pan and pickup tube. Your 4 speed will work with this till you get a 5 speed. I did this in the '70s.

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18 hours ago, Zonargx said:

well I’m gonna be ka swapping my truck soon just gathering the rest of the parts. 
 

I will be selling a pretty fairly new used Weber carb 32/36 with manual choke if anyone is interested

 

I've got a few L20's I'd sell, if only you were closer. Try the "classifieds" if your selling off the unneeded parts, you'll have better luck selling there. > https://ratsun.net/classifieds/

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18 hours ago, Zonargx said:

ka swapping

Are you good at wire harness and electronics and relays  ect......  extra 2-3 k  minimun to finnish this  evn if motor was 500$.. Dont say Painless wire thats a misnomer.  You keep the org harness in there!!!No matter what you do.  you use the engine managment harness to run the motor.

 

otherwise I would not do it thats a cool truck. Its your truck and friday when I drove mine 3 people pull up to me and yell cool truck. Its not cool in back of yeard never to get done, AI have a L16 and its just as finer to drive and EZ to repair

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it’s to late for me to turn back the ka motor got work done already just awaiting on the head,piston rings..main bearings and rod bearings to put it together. @banzai510(hainz)i am gonna be using the stock hardness so it’s just a plug and play only thing I would have to do is wire up the starter,alternator and ignition switch. I can probably clean it up later once it’s set and running

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PM Icehouse on here

Jeff has the CAN AM box for the 3 relays board with lighted diodes  for the KA motor harness to get power to it.

 

  sure you seen this.

 

But Jeff(icehouse) makes it look EZ. Thats how he tricks kids now a days. he gets them to do these KA/SR swaps then they quit and scoops up all the parts later for dime on the dollar and swaps a couple wires and Ban its running.  He just got the Green 510 wagon . he said it took him like a hour and bam it was running and didnt run for years!!!

 

I found Jeff a 12v KA and kid has a 240sx/ said he put a SR in there the KA was bad. I told Jeff. Jeff got it down to Im doing you a favor Ill take it. Whats wrong. I dont know what wrong with motor.  Jeff later tells me he put spark plugs in and ran fine. WTF. ???

 

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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