rear main seal

[henry]

1971 Datsun 510 SW; 1.6L -  4sp Trans.( all stock )

 

      Hello,

   I'm in the process of replacing the clutch. Got everything off to the point where I'm looking at the rear main seal.

    Picked one up today from Napa PN: BS 25023. It's a kit, but I plan on replacing only the seal. ( I'm trying to insert a picture of what it looks like with the old seal installed )

      https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui=2&view=btop&ver=19vfx09sqqlvu#attid%3Datt_173cc6b6f8b3f34f_0.3_71ef9d25_382b1360_2af7e9c7_222f8369_8d3d6a38%252FIMG_1354.JPG

   The salesperson at Napa told me that I should inset 2 tapping screws opposite each other on the old seal & some how try to lever out the seal.

     I'm wondering how you guys remove & install a seal of that size?  

        Thank you for all the help that you've given me so far on this project!

    Henry

 

[henry]

[datzenmike]

Wood screws will work also. Twist into the seal pull out with vice grips.

[henry]

Thank you!

  Did you happen to see the second link that I posted in the next message? If you right click & then click 'view image'. ( ..I'm trying to learn how to post pics correctly )

      What do you make of that sealant on the bottom half of the seal?  Was someone trying to repair a mistake in it's installation?

     Also what's your method for driving it in?

      Thanks again,

      Henry

[datzenmike]

I'm not seeing any pictures.

 

Block of wood over the seal and carefully hammer it in. Then finish seating it fully into the block with a wooden dowel. 

 

 

I made this for the seal in the tail of the transmission...

[flyerdan]

I generally use sockets to tap seals in, having both SAE and metric from 3.25" down pretty much covers any seal diameter. 

It's important to tap (not drive) them in evenly, as if it buckles going in it will be ruined.

[henry]

Hi,

   OK- thanks guys!

      I just created a problem in trying to remove the rear trans seal. It was really stuck in there & I happened to scratch the inner housing where the seal goes in with the tool i was using.

   It actually created a little burr in the metal.  Wondering what you folks would do.

Henry

[datzenmike]

De-grease with brake cleaner then a dab of RTV. A dab not what chevy owners do.

 

Be sure to grease the seal lips so it does not start turning dry.

[henry]

OK, Mike-  should I sand down the the burr first?

   Thanks

  Henry

[datzenmike]

I wouldn't mess with the mating surface. A slight burr won't hurt anything but a small dab of rtv on it, just to be sure.

[henry]

 

1971 Datsun 510 SW; 1.6L. - 4spd trans. ( all stock )

Transmission mating problem:

      Hello,

       What are the steps that need to be taken in order to connect the transmission to the engine ( engine is installed in vehicle ).

   Just finished installing clutch & because I'm working alone I'm finding it difficult to raise trans, balancing it and making sure it goes in straight through the pilot bushing.

      Any preferred methods?

          Thanks,

   Henry

  PS: the car is on ramps

    

       

[carterb]

I like to tilt the engine back against the firewall (you may need to drain and undo the upper radiator hose?)

Did you use a clutch alignment tool when you installed the clutch - to make sure it is concentric with the pilot bushing?

Put the tranny in gear and insert the driveshaft - that way you can reach back there and rotate the input shaft - this helps with alignment to the clutch disk.

Support the tranny on a jack and lift it up little by little - supported by the jack so you don't tire your arms.  The input shaft just barely clears the pressure plate springs as you bring the tranny up and forward - limited by the firewall.

Eventually you will get it up to where you are a couple inches away axially and you need to engage the clutch disk.  Then you should be able to push it forward and it will stop about 1" away or so until the input shaft engages the pilot bushing.  You may have to experiment lifting the jack up and down a little or just use your arms at this point - with the jack a fail safe to catch it or rest.

Make sure the bellhousing is clocked right so that it catches the dowel(s) in the engine block.  Those can trip you up as well.

Sometimes they go right in, sometimes it is a pain.  It's all in the alignment - and it is difficult to really tell if you are aligned from under the car.

You can do it!

--carter

[edekalil]

Yea it's always been a pain for me but I like the put it in gear part I never thought of that. 

[henry]

Well, I finally got it put in. Mainly just need extra muscle, some movement of the input shaft & tilting  of the engine.

    Did the job about thirty years ago on my own without any problems. But at seventy four; no way!

      Thank you to all the members that helped me with this project!

       Henry

[carterb]

Awesome!

[4perrev]

You can always use the old seal over the new one to press it in without beating up the good one.  This is of course, the old one came out decent.  Fat sockets do work best.