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1977 620 King Cab - Georgia Truck


eNVe

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These may be the lug nuts you need for those wheels.
 There also is an OEM replacement for the KC cab light.
You will have to cut a notch in the original mount and with the harness clip
you can plug it into your KC harness with no butchering.
More light !




71KadSaOrkL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

PATHY HOLE ACROSS THE ASTREET 002.JPG

PATHY HOLE ACROSS THE ASTREET 013.JPG

DATSUN  CLIP PAT PATHFINDER LIGHT 009.JPG

PATHFINDER MOD 006.JPG

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6 hours ago, Goemon said:

These may be the lug nuts you need for those wheels.

 

Those look like the lugs for the Toyota. The issue I had with the Chevy rims was that I wasn't getting a solid metal to metal contact due to the center hole not being large enough. Spacers helped.

 

7 hours ago, Goemon said:

There also is an OEM replacement for the KC cab light.
You will have to cut a notch in the original mount and with the harness clip
you can plug it into your KC harness with no butchering.
More light !

 

 

I will definitely check those out. The wiring for the light was pulled by a previous owner, so I have to rewire it anyway.

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That definitely looks very interesting!! To fit the Datsun cab onto the Toyota frame probably will take a bit of fab work, but it will look and run good when finished.

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I hate to say it ...but if you scrap that 620 A/C unit.....you are really fucking up.
People in Thailand & Hawaii will pay big bucks for that shit.
I sold a complete unit for a guy and the buyer in Hawaii paid 1K
for the setup. I wish I had never scrapped
 mine, and kept all of the smog parts I deleted, but that was 33 yrs ago.

 

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On 3/22/2021 at 5:55 PM, eNVe said:

 I was not aware of this, but after a quick search, my frame should not be affected. This was an issue with the previous gens' design which would cause the balljoint to fall out from the bottom. This gen has a new fail safe design where even if the balljoint fails, it will stay in. I will grab some pics when I get home from work tomorrow.

 

50998571625_9337946852_k.jpg

 

As you can see above, the lower A-arm pushes down onto the ball joint. If the ball joint fails, the A-arm wont just fall down. This was a design change after the 2005 model year. Apparently, it was implemented across all of Toyota's trucks.

 

7 hours ago, Goemon said:

I hate to say it ...but if you scrap that 620 A/C unit.....you are really fucking up.
People in Thailand & Hawaii will pay big bucks for that shit.
I sold a complete unit for a guy and the buyer in Hawaii paid 1K
for the setup. I wish I had never scrapped
 mine, and kept all of the smog parts I deleted, but that was 33 yrs ago.

 

 

I still have what's left of the A/C parts. There is not a complete system, and I am not sure if what is left is operational. Honestly, it would be cheaper to go with an aftermarket system like Vintage Air versus trying to rebuild this system. I would also run a lot better, and probably fit a lot tighter, as well. Unless you are looking for something "period" to put into your car or truck.

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Picked up some matching wheels and tires for the frame today, sans valve stems. I thought about installing the valve stems myself, but I am glad I dropped 20 bucks and had a tire shop do it instead. Got them filled and balanced as well. It took them a bit to get the beads set, and I can only imagine the frustration I would have gone through without the proper equipment.

 

They were off of a 2016 4Runner. The owner swapped to some wheels that were designed to better shed mud. His rig was immaculately clean...

 

Side view installed. They look pretty good. You can get a good sense of how big the frame is.

 

51000929700_22f275f21d_c.jpg

 


As you can see, the wheelbases between the two trucks are nearly identical. The axles line up pretty well.

 

51000929650_373b6e3f31_c.jpg

 


The 620 King Cab has a 109.6" wheelbase. The 4th gen 4Runner has a 109.8" wheelbase.

 

51000929680_7ca9015b81_c.jpg

 


The frame alone is about the length of the entire truck. Front:

 

51070210927_6ee6f2161d_c.jpg

 


Back:

 

51070112306_6f4ff01109_c.jpg

 


The 4Runner frame is quite a bit wider than the truck.

 

51070210877_ef8ea03896_c.jpg

 


You can't really get a sense of that until you see the body on it (it's a photochop, don't get too excited!).

 

51069413618_3b7b1c9047_c.jpg

 


This is how I am imagining it will look when "done" for now.

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On 3/23/2021 at 10:12 PM, eNVe said:

I still have what's left of the A/C parts. There is not a complete system, and I am not sure if what is left is operational. Honestly, it would be cheaper to go with an aftermarket system like Vintage Air versus trying to rebuild this system. I would also run a lot better, and probably fit a lot tighter, as well. Unless you are looking for something "period" to put into your car or truck.

 

On the earlier dealer installed AC set ups, we use the original dealer installed underdash units, but everything else under the hood is simply NEW universal fit parts (all the dealer installed kits used universal parts under the hood anyway!), with custom made hoses to suit where YOU want them to pass thru the firewall.  We use a NEW late model Sanden compressor (MUCH more efficient & lighter than the original huge York monstrosity's!), with relatively simple spacer adaptors to mount it to the original dealer installed bracket on the engine.  Depending on the crank pulley, sometimes you need to modify the tensioner pulley bracket to line the belt up.  We have done 240Z's & a 510 this way........same should apply to the 620!

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