starter gear reduction

[banzai510(hainz)]

Anybody have tried these?

I assume these fit the L series 4s but why they don't list the 280ZX as those say they fit the L motors

this is the cheapest I have seen. Looks same as the TSI Automotive ones

 

I forgot to post the link

https://www.classiccarperformance.com/collections/britishstarters-com/products/datsun-240z-260z-280z-high-torque-starter

Edited August 5, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[wayno]

I have had two of them, the solenoid didn't last, it would turn but not engage, better to find a used one in the wrecking yard, I have had better luck with them.

Edited August 5, 2020 by wayno

[datzenmike]

 

 

I have a gear reduction from a L24 Maxima that is longer and stronger. Looks just like the ZX ones. I have a 4x4 oil pressure sender and it's very close to it and the rear of the engine mount but would be fine with a regular sender. A 4 cylinder one is much shorter. 

 

Up here, all Canadian 720s have them and while it will work on an L series engine, it doesn't clear the dip stick tube because it is used on an engine that is leaning to the left side. I bent my tube so it was slightly curved and the solid dip stick wouldn't go down it. I made a new one with a flexible stick from a chev or ford. It can be done though. 

[wayno]

Yea, it can get tight sometimes, this is a Z24 starter in my work truck with a bad solenoid that I modified for it work with a remote relay.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Wayno,

Good to know. Once I installed a relay for the starter selinoid I haven't any proplems with the regular starters even from O Rileys, I just wonder if a low voltage (worn key switch) made the selinoid look bad in your case.

 

also those starter it sat you can loosen the 2 bolts an rotate it away from the block if its too close

Edited August 5, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[datzenmike]

52 minutes ago, wayno said:

Yea, it can get tight sometimes, this is a Z24 starter in my work truck with a bad solenoid that I modified for it work with a remote relay.

 

Mine sat tight against the tube. Yours clears.

[wayno]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

 

Mine sat tight against the tube. Yours clears.

 

That was a Z24 starter, longer than an L starter but likely not as long as a L24 Maxima starter, the Z24 starter is fat and short(but longer than an L starter), while the L24 starter was likely longer but not as fat and your solenoid was likely tilted out, that starter barely fit with that solenoid tight against the block like that.

[datzenmike]

I meant that my Z series gear reduction starter was up against the dip stick tube. My L24 gear reduction is huge but fits tight. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

It say they are Denso motor starters with some adapter to fit all makes and cars it seems as I research and there are many applications.

My Toyota buddy says the Denso selinoid is EZ to replace the contacts on Toyota starters.

So Wayno maybe it had more a key voltage drop issue  and made the selinoid click or not fully throw the arm out .

 

Like I said before my 35 $ O rileys seem like they work ok now. once the relay was added.

 

But these New GR look cool and for $189 is not a bad price. MrBigTanker says he has one or 2 of them and no proplems

forgot to post the link so we all on same page. Assume these are the same as TSI Automotive   (Hi Torq) Brand

https://www.classiccarperformance.com/collections/britishstarters-com/products/datsun-240z-260z-280z-high-torque-starter

Edited August 5, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[yenpit]

We use the NAPA "Wilson" brand 280ZX reduction starter on ALL of our ultra high compression L28 vintage race Z's.  We tried other brands, had failures & one other literally fell apart!  We have not had any issues since using Wilson.............

[banzai510(hainz)]

OK Wayno  cant open the photo in PM try here. so maybe this is the same what I am going to post.

Im trying to figure out where you use the big busslink to short out the 2 battery lugs.

I think you just want something like this will get where you need to be and not cause the spinning of the gear????

 

so on the photo here , the right side you would but your battery cable  which would then go to the Ford selionoid

[wayno]

OK, Hainz is asking how I did what I did to that starter and had it work in my photo, so here is what I did.

 

 

So what I did was run one large cable to the starter with the buss/jumper to the relay in the photo above, the green wire goes to the key, and the other large cable goes to the battery, the alternator charge wire went straight to the positive post on the battery as it was an internally regulated alternator as you can see the jumper wires in that photo also .

 

Right now I bought a used starter from a guy in Brooks OR(relocated Canby meet), that is in my truck now so most of this was removed.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Yenpit

Good to know but I think Napa has also went down in the years since I bought parts.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Wayno I think I got it but still cant open photo

 

Im thinking you could have moved the bat cable to the right lug(Not use the Thick flat short buss) . would be the same????

 

Ok I go to think this one out its really simple ai just go to picture differently

Edited August 5, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[wayno]

OK I will try the photo one more time using the in-house system, can you see this photo?

[banzai510(hainz)]

OK I see it. So the green wire is from the key switch that went to the stock selinoid tab on the starter?  mine is the usually blk /yell wire

 

Im thinking you still need the stock selinoid on the starter  even if you use the remote  selinoid set up as you have.

 

Im only half way guessing is that the selinoid is designed to get thrown out to hit the pinion gear then make contack to start the motor. only then start turning. More or less the original vehicle( being a British Car parts site) is using what we have been doing for year is adding a Hotstart relay in the mix

 

as I don't see a wire on the stock selinoid tab , Can I assume the motor is turning way before it hit the flywheel causeing the gears to get worn????

 

 

I was reading the add for this and was getting confused on the remove selionoid set up and figure I ask you as you said you have something like this.

 

Im still looking at your set up but think now maybe going back the orginal  Datsun set up and just use the Ford relay to give you the 12volts to the starter tab will do it .

 

But if it works just leave it along

 

what drawing below is the common Hot start but work with the ford if you know the connections which is ez to figure out but only need like a 20 ga wire to send to the start TAB

87 and 30 would be the BIG lugs on FORD relay  30 I hook up at the starter lug(battery side)

86 would be the orginal stater wire from key

85 is ground or the Case on the Ford relay

Edited August 5, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[wayno]

I have done that to more than one starter, but the other starters had a small wire going from the buss/jumper to the post on the solenoid where the Black/Yellow wire normally goes, that starter didn't need that small wire.

For some reason that starter in the photo engaged the flywheel without grinding most the time, I went thru a lot of starters at that time and was trying anything to have something work that was dependable, used starters out of wrecking yards worked the best/longest for me, but I have not bought a new starter in several years now, I buy them used at Datsun swap meets/shows.

[banzai510(hainz)]

crap driving home my  Rockauto  NEW CORE "POWER SELECT" Alternator went out.  well I got 2.5 years out of a alternator. that's a record.

The IGN light actually came ON. Most don't even light up the light. I run a LED volt meter and it seem when I rev up the alt would charge and close to idle   it was No Off  very fast.

Swapped to another New Power Select and works again.

I can get 6 months out of this truck before it breaks again.

[Duncan]

I also bought a Napa reduction starter.  I pulled a pulled a heater hose and flooded the first one, and NAPA replaced it with their lifetime warranty.  I've never had a problem with either one of them. 

 

I now cover the starter and alternator with trash bags when I pull any lines with coolant now...

 

 

 

 

[MikeRL411]

On 8/5/2020 at 2:30 PM, wayno said:

I have done that to more than one starter, but the other starters had a small wire going from the buss/jumper to the post on the solenoid where the Black/Yellow wire normally goes, that starter didn't need that small wire.

For some reason that starter in the photo engaged the flywheel without grinding most the time, I went thru a lot of starters at that time and was trying anything to have something work that was dependable, used starters out of wrecking yards worked the best/longest for me, but I have not bought a new starter in several years now, I buy them used at Datsun swap meets/shows.

All too many years ago I contacted Nissan Foreign Parts department and was able to buy all the parts I needed to rebuild my RL411 starter.  Today the parts people don't even know that a foreign parts department ever existed.  Thanks Gohsn!

[datzenmike]

They don't even know they even made Datsuns. Sad.

[yenpit]

On 8/5/2020 at 3:02 PM, banzai510(hainz) said:

Yenpit

Good to know but I think Napa has also went down in the years since I bought parts.

 

I agree regarding NAPA brand parts, but this is Wilson brand, sold by NAPA 😎

[yenpit]

On 8/6/2020 at 4:01 PM, datzenmike said:

They don't even know they even made Datsuns. Sad.

 

I only deal with Riley at Lynchburg Nissan in VA.  I think Courtesy Nissan in TX still has a classic parts person & Chad at Chico Nissan in CA is another option.  I learned many years ago that new car dealer parts departments typically stop selling parts for cars 10++ years & older.  When I worked classic British parts, I worked for a new car Jaguar dealer, but we had a large dedicated classic parts department where I worked.  We continued importing MG TR & classic Jag after they pulled out of the USA dealer network in the early-mid 80's.  Was a booming business in the 90's!  Anyway, many of the other Jaguar dealerships around the country simply sent people to us for anything older.  Some still tried, but if you don't know classic cars, it is a struggle.  Bottom line, I don't think I have ever even called our regional Nissan dealerships in 8 years here in Denver......waste of time!

[KELMO]

I have worked in Nissan dealership parts departments since 1986 and have managed them since 1999. Every time I was in front of a rep from Nissan I would push the idea of a heritage/classic parts line....I wasted a lot of breath with that. More often that not, the people that work in a parts department are not fans of the brand they are working for. It is a way to make money and provide for their families. I think what got me was the first dealership I worked at was the fact that most of the techs and parts guys had a Datsun. There were Z's, 510 2 doors, 510 wagons, 620's, and even my trashy little 1200 sedan. After that store, I have only run into a few Datsun fans working at dealerships.

[MikeRL411]

On 8/6/2020 at 3:01 PM, datzenmike said:

They don't even know they even made Datsuns. Sad.

 

I retired  30 years ago and toyed with an idea.  As a "keep busy" side work I thought of setting up "The Yokohama Tin" company [a play on Detroit Iron] and renting some warehouse to store parts.  I would have bought all the Datsun parts stored in the Gardena CA warehouse and arranged to have all JDM excess parts sent to me. At that time Nissan Japan used to put all the older stock parts in a shipping container and send them to the Gardena warehouse.   A little computer item control software and a lot of part sorting and cataloging later I would open a hobby Datsun parts service.  Then I got a job offer I could not refuse, and took it !  20 years later Datsun / Nissan had succumbed to Renault, all the old parts had been scrapped and my idea was destroyed.