datzenmike Posted August 16, 2020 Report Share Posted August 16, 2020 2 hours ago, Poptartjake said: Na, input shaft was torched anyways and I needed a little extra clearance to slide it off. Input shaft teeth so I had enough room to slide it past the counter drive gear. Why not have cut both off and order the set? 1 Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2020 1 minute ago, datzenmike said: Why not have cut both off and order the set? I did order a set as they aren't sold separately, so worst case scenario, I could do that. However, it would take quite a long time to get through that gear lol. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 16, 2020 Report Share Posted August 16, 2020 You wouldn't need to disassemble the transmission. 1 Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2020 What do you guys use for these thick snap rings? My snap ring pliers aren't big enough and my needle noose just aren't doing it. I'm able to get one side of the ring to spread, but never enough. I can't cut it off either as it's too close to other components. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted August 16, 2020 Report Share Posted August 16, 2020 39 minutes ago, Poptartjake said: What do you guys use for these thick snap rings? My snap ring pliers aren't big enough and my needle noose just aren't doing it. I'm able to get one side of the ring to spread, but never enough. I can't cut it off either as it's too close to other components. ive got a lot of snap ring pliers. One of them always works. 1 Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 I have snapring pliers with changeable tips. They seem to cover most of my needs 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 (edited) Are you trying to get the gear off now? Be very careful. You really don't want to chip a tooth. I have probably 5 different types of snap ring pliers. There is no one-size-fits-all. Edited August 17, 2020 by Stoffregen Motorsports 1 Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 This is the snap ring I'm trying to get off. Any tips/tricks would be appreciated as I'm having a rough time with it. Pliers just keep slipping out as tension increases while trying to open it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 18, 2020 Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 It may be that pressure from the synchro hub is holding the snap ring tight. Try tapping the hub away from the snap ring to ease that tension. If that doesn't work, you can always tap the snap ring open with a hammer and screwdriver. Once you get it off, you may have to bend it back into shape to make sure it's tight for reassembly. 1 Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 14 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: It may be that pressure from the synchro hub is holding the snap ring tight. Try tapping the hub away from the snap ring to ease that tension. If that doesn't work, you can always tap the snap ring open with a hammer and screwdriver. Once you get it off, you may have to bend it back into shape to make sure it's tight for reassembly. I did have to tap it a bit originally to even get the one side to start moving, so I'll try tapping the whole thing back a bit more and hope that helps. 1 Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2020 Lol... Did as I said above, hit it a little more and it freed the ring up on both sides. Just bought a better pair of snap ring pliers and ring came off in seconds... Amazing how much of a difference quality tools make. 1 Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2020 Success! Now we wait for the input shaft to arrive. 2 Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2020 How the fuck do I put a load on this spring, insert a ball bearing, while keeping the top spring/ball loaded and inserting the shift fork? 😵 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 28, 2020 Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 I could be wrong but that spring shouldn't be there. It should be way over to the right. There should be two check balls between the 5th/Rev rod on the left and the 3rd/4th shift rod where the yellow circle is. Then two check balls between the yellow circle (3rd/4th) and the 1st/2ns shift rod on the right. To the right of the 1st/2nd shift rod should be a single check ball then the spring and the plug Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 11 hours ago, datzenmike said: I could be wrong but that spring shouldn't be there. It should be way over to the right. There should be two check balls between the 5th/Rev rod on the left and the 3rd/4th shift rod where the yellow circle is. Then two check balls between the yellow circle (3rd/4th) and the 1st/2ns shift rod on the right. To the right of the 1st/2nd shift rod should be a single check ball then the spring and the plug Eyy, that makes sense. 🙂 When you say plug, are you referring to the metal pill looking thingy?.. lol Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted August 28, 2020 Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 10 minutes ago, Poptartjake said: Eyy, that makes sense. 🙂 When you say plug, are you referring to the metal pill looking thingy?.. lol I believe the plug he is referring to is a screwed in cap on the outside of the center section..... They should have been removed to remove the spring and ball before removing the shifting rod.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 (edited) 1 minute ago, Crashtd420 said: I believe the plug he is referring to is a screwed in cap on the outside of the center section..... They should have been removed to remove the spring and ball before removing the shifting rod.... You assume I did things correctly. 😉 But no worries, all plugs are still in and I should be able to finish this up now that I know the proper way to reinstall the last 2 forks. Edited August 28, 2020 by Poptartjake 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 28, 2020 Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 (edited) Make sure you find or have the ball detents for the shift rods. The rods go in first, then the balls, then the springs, then the caps/plugs. I always put a little red loctite on the plugs. Edited August 28, 2020 by Stoffregen Motorsports Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 58 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Make sure you find or have the ball detents for the shift rods. The rods go in first, then the balls, then the springs, then the caps/plugs. I always put a little red loctite on the plugs. I had all the rods in and everything re-assembled, but the middle shift rod wouldn't move at all, so I've now pulled all 3 rods back out, which was harder than the first time and that seems odd. I'm thinking I should lube up the rods and inside the sleeves they insert into. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 28, 2020 Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 I need to clarify, there are pills that go in between the rods. They are called interlock or lockout pills. They keep you from engaging more than one gear at a time. I'm sure there is an exploded view diagram that shows how the springs and balls go together with the rods. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 28, 2020 Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 Not the best image, but it does show them. Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 (edited) I only have 1 lockout pill that goes between rod 11 and 11a from your diagram above. Between 11a and 11b are 2 ball bearings Edited August 28, 2020 by Poptartjake 1 Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted September 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 Got all the internals reassembled on Sunday and it seems to all be functional, based on my limited knowledge. I can engage and disengage the various gears (not entirely sure which is which, though), however I will note that the sleeve that engages with the input shaft is VERY difficult to get to move. It feels like it has to be positioned absolutely perfect and force has to be applied evenly around the sleeve for it to want to slide (if I smack the end of the shift rod with a mallet, it moves without much issue, though). I'm waiting on a couple final parts like a new front main seal, shifter gasket, and the input shaft bearing, then I'll grab some RTV Grey to seal it all up with. Plan to replace the clutch before reinstalling the trans as well. I wanted to give a big shout out to Stoffregen Motorsports for babying my inept ass throughout this entire process. It probably wouldn't be rebuilt right now if it wasn't for him. I've also got to thank datzenmike for continually trying to help, even if we didn't seem to be on the same page most of the time. Draker also came in clutch a few different times with advice. 3 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted September 3, 2020 Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 3 hours ago, Poptartjake said: Got all the internals reassembled on Sunday and it seems to all be functional, based on my limited knowledge. I can engage and disengage the various gears (not entirely sure which is which, though), however I will note that the sleeve that engages with the input shaft is VERY difficult to get to move. It feels like it has to be positioned absolutely perfect and force has to be applied evenly around the sleeve for it to want to slide (if I smack the end of the shift rod with a mallet, it moves without much issue, though). I'm waiting on a couple final parts like a new front main seal, shifter gasket, and the input shaft bearing, then I'll grab some RTV Grey to seal it all up with. Plan to replace the clutch before reinstalling the trans as well. I wanted to give a big shout out to Stoffregen Motorsports for babying my inept ass throughout this entire process. It probably wouldn't be rebuilt right now if it wasn't for him. I've also got to thank datzenmike for continually trying to help, even if we didn't seem to be on the same page most of the time. Draker also came in clutch a few different times with advice. It will probably move easier once it's coated in gear oil. You could always. lube it up now and make sure. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 3, 2020 Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 Glad to hear you got it figured out. I had my own transmission learning experience the other day, so I can empathize with your troubles. 2 Quote Link to comment
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