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Transmission Disassembly Help


Poptartjake

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1 hour ago, docbainey said:

Caution with the large nut, being a 71C, I believe it is left hand thread.

 

 

Look at the threads that are showing. The 71B were righty tighty I imagine the 71C are too. The nut has a shoulder that can be staked into a key way to prevent loosening. My 71B I bent the staking and could tighten the nut about 1/8" for wear then staked it in place... 

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2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

You don't need to un-stake the nut. Just turn it loose.

 

I use these for the tailshaft nuts -
 

 

Ok this guy does a lot of work on transmissions. Great idea!

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These two pictures are from my thread that I put a 1980 720 into a 1970 521 truck. 

https://ratsun.net/topic/30606-my-ratsun-datsun-521-now-with-l-20-b-and-a-five-speed/page/21/

I had a wrench that fit the reverse idler nut, a 1 1/16 open end wrench.

ReverseIdlerWrench.JPG

 

for the main shaft nut, I used a big Cresent WrenchMainshaftCresentWrench.JPG

 

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1 minute ago, DanielC said:

These two pictures are from my thread that I put a 1980 720 into a 1970 521 truck. 

https://ratsun.net/topic/30606-my-ratsun-datsun-521-now-with-l-20-b-and-a-five-speed/page/21/

I had a wrench that fit the reverse idler nut, a 1 1/16 open end wrench.

ReverseIdlerWrench.JPG

 

for the main shaft nut, I used a big Cresent WrenchMainshaftCresentWrench.JPG

 

I've got a pipe wrench that I'm using

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After some *persuasive* negotiations (I took a cut off wheel to its ass), I've got the bolt off, and docbainey got it right. It's left threaded. 

So, if anyone happens to have the measurements, part number, or a link to where I can get a new main shaft lock nut, I'd be grateful. 😇 
EDIT: Think I found some. Neither looked to have the cut out for the locking portion, but I guess you'd just drive it down with a punch or something once installed. 

Edited by Poptartjake
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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

I don't see why. Just hammer the counter shaft forward.  Unlock any gears.

Right. Just drive that bitch forward. Use a deadblow hammer please.

 

If a deadblow isn't enough, then protect the shaft with a piece of aluminum or something soft if you must hit it hard.

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7 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Right. Just drive that bitch forward. Use a deadblow hammer please.

 

If a deadblow isn't enough, then protect the shaft with a piece of aluminum or something soft if you must hit it hard.

Dead-blow will be acquired tomorrow and I'll smack that bitch real hard. 😉 

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FYI- as the shafts come forward out of the mid plate, there is a detent ball behind a thrust washer that will fall out. I know there is one on the main shaft, but I don't remember if there is one on the countershaft. I don't think so. Be ready for it so you don't miss it. Reassembly is made easy with a dab of grease to hold the ball in place.

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8 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

FYI- as the shafts come forward out of the mid plate, there is a detent ball behind a thrust washer that will fall out. I know there is one on the main shaft, but I don't remember if there is one on the countershaft. I don't think so. Be ready for it so you don't miss it. Reassembly is made easy with a dab of grease to hold the ball in place.


I got a 4lb dead blow, but I need to figure out a way to flip it so the shafts are vertical and I can get a good forceful blow on it. Where are some old school saw horses when you need em... 

Edited by Poptartjake
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No, just lay the whole assembly on it's side and smack the plate off of the shafts.  If you stand them up, they will fall apart when you get them loose.

 

For reassembly, I use two 2x4's on the ground and place the bellhousing on the 2x4's then stab the innards as an assembly into the bellhousing. That's the only time you'll need the parts vertical.

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