datzenmike Posted August 6, 2020 Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 You only need the counter shaft out to free the input shaft. Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 12 minutes ago, Draker said: Any two gears will work Literally just got it to lock up 🙂 Still struggling with the staking, though. I think a cold chisel is needed 1 Quote Link to comment
docbainey Posted August 6, 2020 Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 Caution with the large nut, being a 71C, I believe it is left hand thread. Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 Just now, docbainey said: Caution with the large nut, being a 71C, I believe it is left hand thread. uh, wanna explain that to the less informed? lol Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 6, 2020 Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 You don't need to un-stake the nut. Just turn it loose. I use these for the tailshaft nuts - 1 Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 Ya, I wish I could fab something like that up lol. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 6, 2020 Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 1 hour ago, docbainey said: Caution with the large nut, being a 71C, I believe it is left hand thread. Look at the threads that are showing. The 71B were righty tighty I imagine the 71C are too. The nut has a shoulder that can be staked into a key way to prevent loosening. My 71B I bent the staking and could tighten the nut about 1/8" for wear then staked it in place... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 6, 2020 Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 Yes, some of them were reverse threads, but I honestly don't remember which ones. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 6, 2020 Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 I would guess the very early ones that because of the left threads they didn't think would come lose.... but did. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted August 6, 2020 Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: You don't need to un-stake the nut. Just turn it loose. I use these for the tailshaft nuts - Ok this guy does a lot of work on transmissions. Great idea! 1 Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 7 minutes ago, Draker said: Ok this guy does a lot of work on transmissions. Great idea! Now a solution for us less well equipped please 😆 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted August 6, 2020 Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 These two pictures are from my thread that I put a 1980 720 into a 1970 521 truck. https://ratsun.net/topic/30606-my-ratsun-datsun-521-now-with-l-20-b-and-a-five-speed/page/21/ I had a wrench that fit the reverse idler nut, a 1 1/16 open end wrench. for the main shaft nut, I used a big Cresent Wrench 1 Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 1 minute ago, DanielC said: These two pictures are from my thread that I put a 1980 720 into a 1970 521 truck. https://ratsun.net/topic/30606-my-ratsun-datsun-521-now-with-l-20-b-and-a-five-speed/page/21/ I had a wrench that fit the reverse idler nut, a 1 1/16 open end wrench. for the main shaft nut, I used a big Cresent Wrench I've got a pipe wrench that I'm using Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted August 6, 2020 Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 The trick is just to unstake the nut. Get or make a small chisel. Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 (edited) After some *persuasive* negotiations (I took a cut off wheel to its ass), I've got the bolt off, and docbainey got it right. It's left threaded. So, if anyone happens to have the measurements, part number, or a link to where I can get a new main shaft lock nut, I'd be grateful. 😇 EDIT: Think I found some. Neither looked to have the cut out for the locking portion, but I guess you'd just drive it down with a punch or something once installed. Edited August 6, 2020 by Poptartjake 1 Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 Should this gear come off? It's snug and no way I'm reaching it with my 3 jaw without making some extensions (which wouldn't be easy for me :P) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 6, 2020 Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 Is everything off the end of the counter shaft? drive it forward out of the adapter plate. 1 Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 24 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Is everything off the end of the counter shaft? drive it forward out of the adapter plate. The adapter plate doesn't have to come off first?.. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 6, 2020 Report Share Posted August 6, 2020 I don't see why. Just hammer the counter shaft forward. Unlock any gears. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 7, 2020 Report Share Posted August 7, 2020 2 hours ago, datzenmike said: I don't see why. Just hammer the counter shaft forward. Unlock any gears. Right. Just drive that bitch forward. Use a deadblow hammer please. If a deadblow isn't enough, then protect the shaft with a piece of aluminum or something soft if you must hit it hard. Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2020 7 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Right. Just drive that bitch forward. Use a deadblow hammer please. If a deadblow isn't enough, then protect the shaft with a piece of aluminum or something soft if you must hit it hard. Dead-blow will be acquired tomorrow and I'll smack that bitch real hard. 😉 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 7, 2020 Report Share Posted August 7, 2020 FYI- as the shafts come forward out of the mid plate, there is a detent ball behind a thrust washer that will fall out. I know there is one on the main shaft, but I don't remember if there is one on the countershaft. I don't think so. Be ready for it so you don't miss it. Reassembly is made easy with a dab of grease to hold the ball in place. Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2020 (edited) 8 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: FYI- as the shafts come forward out of the mid plate, there is a detent ball behind a thrust washer that will fall out. I know there is one on the main shaft, but I don't remember if there is one on the countershaft. I don't think so. Be ready for it so you don't miss it. Reassembly is made easy with a dab of grease to hold the ball in place. I got a 4lb dead blow, but I need to figure out a way to flip it so the shafts are vertical and I can get a good forceful blow on it. Where are some old school saw horses when you need em... Edited August 7, 2020 by Poptartjake Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted August 7, 2020 Report Share Posted August 7, 2020 No, just lay the whole assembly on it's side and smack the plate off of the shafts. If you stand them up, they will fall apart when you get them loose. For reassembly, I use two 2x4's on the ground and place the bellhousing on the 2x4's then stab the innards as an assembly into the bellhousing. That's the only time you'll need the parts vertical. Quote Link to comment
Poptartjake Posted August 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2020 This is the size of gap I've been able to make. Am I just need to hit it harder? 1 Quote Link to comment
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